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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, 



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(Sijuju - — . Capijrirrfft tyx* 

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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



Prof. C. L, Edwards' 

PBOGE-E8SITE 

Illustrated <& ^orsenjansfcip 



oducatioij^i 




Practical Management of Hops, 



Originator of Training around Center Post, Driving by 

Motion of the Hand, Snap of the Finger, and Many 

Other Tricks Never Before published, 



to which is added a treatise on the management op cattle 
and Dogs, a few Valuable Recipes, with Nearly 100 
Illustrations, a Chapter on the Diagnosis 
Lameness of Horses, Rules and Regula- 
tions of the National Trotting 
Association. 

\cv 3 OS 

Inrentor -:- of -:- Etaitf -:- Patent -:- Controlling -:- Briile -:- Bit 

AND -:- SMOTHERING •:- NOSE :• PIECE. 



I Copyrighted— Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 189&,,by C. L. Edvxirds.] 



SF' 
.£24. 



NOTICE. 



'T'hose wishing a copy of this Book, can get it by sending me $2.00. 
I will send my Bit for $2.00. The Bit and Book together, $3.00. 
The Patent Smothering Nose Piece, $2.00. Bit, Book and Nose 
Piece, $5.00. When half a dozen or more are ordered at the same 
time, a liberal reduction will be made. 

^"Address 

C. L. EDWARDS, 

Newark, Wayne Co., 

IsHETW YORK:. 



TO -:- THE -:- PURCHASER. 



I confidentially and sincerely request the Purchaser of this little 
work to prove to the man who asks the loan of this Book, that you are 
wise enough for your own interest not to luau a book containing 
knowledge which cost you money. By so doing, you will not only 
show your wisdom in not buying knowledge for others, but will confer 
a great favor and special benefit upon the one to whom your are 
slightly indebted for the instructions contained herein. Tell those 
who ask the loan of this book, that they can get it by addressing 
C. L. Edwards, Newark, Wayne County, New York. 



Preface 



The author of this work, having had experience in handling some 
of the most vicious horses in this country, and three years' experience 
in handling mustangs in Texas and Mexico, and having met with entire 
success, humbly offers this work to all lovers of this most noble animal, 
so that all those who favor him with their patronage may have this in 
printed form for future reference, and may, I hope, be benefited 
thereby. 

In treating upon this theory, I am well aware of the disadvantages 
under which I labor, and perfectly conscious of the prejudice I may 
excite in men, who, having handled horses for some time and having 
ways of their own with which they are usually satisfied, are very likely 
to say humbug to any idea which to them is new and strange. There 
also exists in the minds of many intelligent men an opposition to all 
professionals endeavoring to improve the horse. This opposition arises 
from the many failures of that class and serious damage done to ani- 
mals handled by such men. I do not expect to obliterate these preju- 
dices, but have courage to hope, from past experience, that if I am 
given a careful hearing, and my theory put fully into practice, I can 
improve the opinions of the people, beyond all doubt, on the subject 
of Horse Education. 

I am about to introduce to you one of the most easy, practical and 
improved systems of horse-training ever known. I have read some- 
where about a method which is only to be applied where there are 
brains. Now, there is no such thing as a living horse void of brains. 
I claim my method can be applied with perfect safety to any animal 
{if the brain is not diseased) which is to be made the servant of man, 
irrespective of age or disposition, favored with the assurance of com- 
plete success, without any bodily torture, brute foree, or abuse what- 
ever. 

In my bit you will find a combination equal to any emergency in 
which a bit may be applied. In combining the effects of the tri-facial 
nerve pressure with that of the maxiliary nerve pressure for control- 
ing, and also common joint and plain pipe bit action for horses of dif- 
ferent bit-taking, with the appliance for preventing any horse from 
lopping out the tongue, and with the adjustable nose-piece for smother- 
ing, if properly applied, I would like to see the horse that can out- 
general you. To prove to you that yard and pen training and reining 
is good only so far as it goes : "How do you know a horse will not 
balk until you hitch him to something and he refuses to ' go ?' r ' Right 
here is where I claim the great credit for my smothering nose-piece 
above all others, as simple as it is. If the animal has been taught to 
start ahead by the use of it, he cannot refuse ; he must start, or he 
cannot breathe ; and then by letting him breathe (after he starts), as 
in the following lessons, he can be made to do your bidding. It is my 
anxiety to try and instruct you how to do, so that you will be success- 
ful in your training and educating, and to lessen the labor, risk and 
danger both of man and horse, rather than to appear professional, 
scientific, or learned. I may seem to speak with energy and assurance; 
and if so, it is because I have studied and practiced what I assert, and 
have confidence in my statements. 

THE AUTHOR. 



TWENTY SIMPLE RULES 

—ON THE— 

Nature, Disposition and Management of the Horse. 



First— That the Horse is so constituted by nature that he will not 
offer resistance to any demand made of him which he fully compre- 
hends, if made consistent with the laws of his nature. 

Second — That he has no consciousness of his strength beyond his ex- 
perience, and can be handled according to our will, without torture- 
ing or abusing. 

Third — That we can, in compliance with the laws of his nature — by 
which he examines all things — take any object, however frightful, 
around or on him that does not inflict pain without scaring him. 

Fourth — That while control is necessary, and you have the means of 
making your horse almost a plaything in your hands, let the silken 
cord of love be the cement that fixes and secures his submission to your 
will. 

Fifth— Never undertake anything that you do not know you can 
carry out. Who has the power to enforce his will, but who exercises 
it with the sweetening encouragement of kindness. 

Sixth — Don't be in a hurry. Teach the Horse what you want of him, 
as a child learns its alphabet, one letter at a time, step by step. Be 
sure he knows ea'ch letter before you attempt to teach him another. 
Take a rest after each lesson, though it be only a short one. 

Seventh— Reward each effort to do as you wish, whether he means 
it or does it accidentally. Punish once for doing wrong, but caress 
ten times for doing right once. 

Eighth -In teaching the colt words, always accompany the word with 
an explanatory act ; for instance, in teaching whoa or back, always 
give the toord, then the pull, and be sure it is your will that triumphs 
in the end. # 

Ninth— Never, under any circumstance deceive your horse. Never 
say whoa unless you want him to stop and stand still. In going down 
hill say "steady boy" — "take care''' 1 — or some other word you like. Do 
not say whoa. 

Tenrh— After your horse has obeyed a command, do not try to make 
him refuse, so you can have a chance to compel again. This is deceit 
in the rankest form, and also inconsistent and unreasonable. He will 
refuse of his own accord enough to get a thorough training. It is un- 
reasonable to make a horse kick or balk, in order to get a chance to 
break him. 



Eleventh — I teach the theory that the horse is a teachable creature, 
that his mind can be educated, and when fully and properly taught, is 
as durable as life — except the principles taught are forced from his 
mind by repeated and systematic mismanagement. 

Twelfth — Use the combination bit and smothering nose piece and you 
will be enabled to educate a horse and bring him under control with- 
out giving him time to get excited or offer much resistance. So it is, 
although he resists a little at first, he is soon convinced of his ulter in- 
ability to help himself in the least, and results in yielding quickly. 

Thirteenth — When training in building or yard, have all carriages, 
plows, etc., removed. Never get mad, kick or jerk your horse — he will 
lose all confidence in you. 

Fourteenth — Talk to your horse, but don't talk hiin to death ; use 
but few words, and always the same ones in educating him to perform 
a certain trick or obey any command. By so doing, he is taught the 
meaning of them ; and in teaching several tricks, teach them in rota- 
tation, each time alike, and he will not get confounded or mixed up. 

Fifteenth — Never allow the blacksmith to pare away the bottom of 
the flat-footed horse ; you may of the cup-footed one. Do not shoe a 
colt that dwells or points in the trotting gait, wiih a heavy shoe, or toe 
weight him at first. Shoe light; draw the toe of the shoe out or 
round the ground surface of it. Take him to a smith that knows how 
to shoe a horse. 

Sixteenth— Give short, quick drives, of say one, two or three miles, 
to colts, when educating them, and feed well. Oats have a tendency 
to make a horse lively. A fretter should be fed cracked corn and bran. 
Increase his feed with his training and education, and increase his daily 
work likewise. Keep him busy for a while and he will be more liable 
to forget his vicious tendencies. After you get home with the colt, 
take him into the barn immediately ; he has done enough ; do not try 
to teach him anything after a drive. 

Seventeenth— For a well-trained, naturally clever horse, there is no 
check that is so easy or looks so well as the old-fashioned side check 
with gagrunners well up towards the crown-piece. Never check a horse 
high on the road, and but little while at work. 

Eighteenth— Never push wet bedding up under the manger to act as 
a noctious smelling bottle to the horse's nostrils. It looks stingy and 
is a filthy practice. Keep some dry straw or sawdust under the horse 
at day as well as night time. 

Nineteenth — Remember a good grooming is better than an extra 
mess of feed. Give feed regular, and if your horse has to perform an 
extra day's work do not give him an extra feed just before starting, if 
at all give it the night before. 

Twentieth— In driving the colt, watch out and see the point, "'as it 
were," just a little before he does. 



Introduction 



My object in presenting this little work to the public is to allevi- 
ate as far as possible the sufferings of that noble and much abused 
animal, the Horse. Grod made man in his own image and to him was 
given the control over the beasts of the Held and birds and fowls of 
the earth and air, and fishes of the sea; and in order that man may 
successfully exercise that control over the animal creation, Grod has 
endowed him with a superior order of intellect. It cannot be denied 
that animals have an instinct — an instinct' capable of education and 
government. All have seen or heard of the wonderful feats performed 
by animals, birds and serpents, and even swine, which are supposed to 
possess the smallest degree of intellect have been educated and made 
to perform wonderful feats of intelligence. But man has a higher 
mental power, which is reasoning power. Man reasons from cause to 
effect, and it is to mind, not to matter, that he looks to explain his 
reasoning, for his mind is capable of expansion to an almost unlimited 
extent, while animals act only from experience. No animal trained to 
do seemingly impossible feats can impart his knowledge to another 
creature. Each must learn by experience or be taught by man. A 
horse's sense is good, common sense. There is in horses, as in men, 
much difference, some being more intelligent than others. A horse is 
not naturally suspicious, like a wolf, but while young is timid and soon 
learns that teeth and heels are his only weapons and flight his greatest 
security. With his age comes the knowledge of his power; and if he 
has never been controlled or naver been made to yield to any will but 
his own. If he is to be made a useful servant of man, as a rule the 
struggle for generalship will come sooner or later, and the will of the 
horse or that of the man must triumph. Let a horse once learn he can 
gain an advantage over man by the use of his heels and he soon learns 
from experience that he can break Blender Thills and, free himself 
from the buggy, and with his tail as the flag, the glory of his nostrils 
cometh when he rejoiceth in his strength. The horse is possessed of 
superior strength, the man of superior mind. It is therefore evident 
that we are dependent for our mastery over the horse upon our skill 
and ability to use our superior reasoning (if we can discriminate it so 
to be,) in such a way as to overcome his strength. In other words we 
mus< outgeneral him upon his own ground, bring him under our con- 
trol and make him do our bidding, and in order to do this quickly and 
successfully we must understand something of his nature and the laws 
by which he is governed. 

I do not present this book as an exceptional treatise on the horse, 
but as an easy, plain and practical explanation of my system of educa- 
ting colts and unruly horses, while I beg from the scrutinizing public a 
charitable criticism for my deficiencies. I yet feel great confidence 
that this work will meet a hearty approval from all who would be wise 
for their own interest. It is also my heartfelt desire that this book 
may prove valuahle to its readers and help to perform its share of 
bringing about the proper management and control of the most valu- 
able of all animal creation, the Home. 

C. L. EDWARDS. 



NEWARK, NEW YORK : 
QAZFTTE PRINTING ESTABLISHMENT 



EDWARDS' 

PRACTICAL 

Progressive g 15orseiiiaiisliip. 




Illustration No. I. 

(A) —Represents one Lever removed from the Bit. When not re 
moved, they may be buckled into the check piece of the Bridle with 
the Bit Ring, or buckled into the check the same. 

(B) — Represents the Extension Center Ball removed. When all are 
removed, the Bit is made in effect like the common trotting snaffle. 




iLLtXSTKATION NO. 2. 

Showing the Hollow Pipe to be placed upon the Joint Bit when 
taken anart to make a Straight Pipe Bit for tender-bitted horses. Un- 
screw the joint bit at the center and drop one end into the straight bit, 
then the other end, and you can see to adjust by the slots or openings 
in the straight bit. 

Notb.— -Or, the ring may be cut at the end of a common joint bit and taken 
out, and by using a piece of small gas-pipe and thick leather washers, make a bit 
like the one above by replacing the ring after placing the pipe upon the bit. 



14 EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



HORSEMANSHIP. 



Horsemanship has reached its present stage of perfection by a grad- 
ual process of experiments and discoveries. In all man's inventions 
and discoveries he has invariably commenced with some simple princi- 
ple and gradually developed it from one degree of perfection to an- 
other. So with all the improvements in training the horse, each one 
deserves h.s share of credit, if only small. As long ago as> 1762 an ac- 
count is given in "Bartlet's Gentleman's Farrier," of the method of 
strapping up the feet then described as Dr. Bracken's. In 1825 an ac- 
count was given in "Bell's Life," published in London, of the wonder- 
ful powers exhibited by a man named Bull, over horses, which was also 
described as being accomplished by this method. The fame of the 
once noted whisperer, Sullivan, who flourished eighty years ago in 
Ireland, was unquestionably based upon the practice of this means of 
subjection. A man named Offut claims to have practiced this method 
of subjection in this country as long ago as 1825 and to have sold the 
secret to Mr. Rarey. Mr. d. H. P. Francher, who is well known in the 
New England states, claims to have practiced this method for many 
years, and advertises as having given Mr. Rarey his practical instructions 
in the use of the art. But Mr. Rarey established the precedence of 
his claims to the public attention and identified his name with this 
theory of management by his exhibitions of power over a number of 
vicious horses in England in 1858, and also in this country about the 
same time. Author. 



The Baby Horse. 

Almost any one can handle a sucking colt, so there is very little need 
of many instructions as to that point. Yet it is very important that he 
be handled when quite yonng. Some, being stronger than others, may 
be handled sooner, with safety. A young colt is capable of learning 
more than most people ever have any idea of. I have taught sucking 
colts to follow away from the mother, wjthout anything upon them, in 
fifteen minutes— colts that had never been handled at all, and naturaljy 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 15 

of a wild nature. The first time you take hold of the colt be sure you 
get your hold so he cannot get away Hold him for a short time (a 
good way is to take him around the neck with both arms;, then caress 
him, and again hold him for a short time. In a few times handled in 
this way, he will learn to have confidence in you, instead of fearing 
you ; and if you proceed to halter break him, as shown in illustration 
No. 3, you will never have a halter-puller, or any trouble in that re- 
spect. It is much the etter plan to leave the young colt at home when 
away with the dam. Shut him in a box-stah, with no mangers for him 
to jump into, and he will do much better tnan to follow on the road or 
farm. Use your own judgment in weaning. I know from experience 
that he should not be weaned under five months old, and that colts 
wean easier when the sign is going down in the legs and feet. A young 
colt is like a boy : he is growing, and needs good food to nourish and 
develop his strength and muscles. — " Sport Oafo." 



To Halter-Break Colt or Horse. 

First get him into an enclosure. If he is wild, you can du this best 
by taking other horses in and he will follow. Then remove the other 
horses, and everything else that would be liable to attract his attention 
or be in the way, get up to turn as carefully as possible, feed him if he 
will eat, and get a good strong strap-halter on him ; do not use rope on 
his head. Now take about 30 feet of new 7 8 inch rope and double it, 
pass the loop over his back, down under his body at the place of the 
girt, pass the two ends through the loop end and out between his fore 
legs ; now pass each end through each ch^ek ring of halter, — one on 
the right and one on the left, respectively (if there are no rings, tie on 
some), — and pull the free ends of the rope through the rings. You 
now h^ve on your horse, as shown in illustration No. 3, a safe and re- 
liable mode of halter- breaking. Do not hold him if he tries to move ; 
let him have his head, and as soon as he gets a little accustomed to it, 
stand to one side and partially in front of him and give him a pull just 
strong enough to move him in your direction a step or two ; repeat this 
several times and he will learn to lead. I'' he is very stubborn, you 
may pass the ends of the rope around center post, as seen in illustra- 
tion No. 3, but do not tie them yet ; hold the ends in one hand and 
pull to the right and left with the other hand. He will soom march up 
to the post and lead all right - . In teaching him any movement, always 
cluck or say, '"Come here." or the proper word signifying whatever 
you may want of him. If yoa do not give the word, how can he learn 



16 



EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



it ?— and why not commence at first ? He should be handled from 
both sides and made to turn in a circle after you, before you try to lead 
straight ahead. If you cannot make him turn, take the tail in one 
hand and rope in the other and he will -urely turn. 




iLLUSTUATION NO. 3. 



Do not forget to feed him some sweet apples, oats, etc., every time 
he does right. You may now get in the position taken in illustration 
No. 3 and proceed to draw him up to the post, while you stand back 
and hold the rope. You may hold him a little now, and if he pulls, 
slack up a little, and then hold agciin, and repeat, and he will soon 
learn to stand up to the post. If he pulls he cannot slat his head, as 
the ropes on each side hold it straight with his body. If he should lie 
down, apply the smothering nose-piece. Observation will show you 
how long to hold it. When he makes an attempt to get up, slack away 
on the smothering rein, and by repeating, he will get up if he possibly 
can. Now let him breathe as soon as he gets up. He will not try this 
many times, and you will have a horse well halter-broken. If you 
have a smothering nose-piece, as shown in illustration No. 4, you can 
do the work easy and quick. I have yet to find a horse properly hal- 
ter-broke in this way, turn out to be a hulter or bridle puller. Vv T hen 
you tie him, lie him with rig on, as shown in illustration No. 3. Do 
not tie him and leave him alone until he leads well. 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



17 




Illustration No. 4. 



Now if he refuses to lead straight ahead, pull upon smothering strap, 
as shown in illustration No. 4, and he will lead all right. You may 
say, " How do you know V I reply, simply because there is no living 
animal but that will move ahead to get its breath. If properly ap- 
plied, it will break any halter-puller, no matter how confirmed in the 
habit he may be, as shown in illustration, and in instructions in follow- 
ing pages for halter pullers. 



16 



EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 




] Pat. ajyplied for.] 
Illustration No. 4)^. 

The Smothering Halter or Bridle Nose Piece is no small 
invention in the control of horses, mules, etc., as it comes in where 
nothing else in the world will do the work. I have heard of pouring 
water in an animal's nose to get him up when in a sulk or lying down. 
This is dangerous, injurious, destructive and inhuman, as most always* 
the animal is pretty well warmed up when in a sulk, and the sudden 
cold thrust upon his head and nasal glands, caused by the use of cold 
water, is liable to give the animal cold in the head, resulting in death 
from running glanders. I can bring proof of a case of this kind, 
caused by t he use of cold water ; so never use it, but use the smother- 
ing nose-piece and good results will be sure to follow, and you will 
come out triumphant every time. Furthermore, I have seen horses 
that would swallow water &s fast as you could pour it into their noses, 
and would not get up then. 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



19 



Bitting or Check-Reining the Colt. 

First, construct a bridle like one in illustration No. 5, with Edwards' 
Combination Bit. 




Illustration No. 5. 



Now take your co^t upon the barn floor, or in a good yard, which is 
a better place ; put bridle, as represented in illustration No. 5, upon 
him, and let hhn get familiar with the place by walking around a few 
minutes alone. (If he is a clever fellow, you may remove the side lev- 
ers ; buckle one draw in bit-ring, place slide loop well up on forehead.) 
You may now take a whip and drive him around the floor or yard a few 
times ; but be sure there are no places he can jump over or get his head 
into, or doors that will push out and let him fall back through if he 
should happen to back up against them (after he is checked). Do not, 
under any circumstances, allow neighbors or bystanders present. If 
visitors eome, let your colt be alone until they go away, or put him in 
the stable. No man can train a horse, or any other animal, with visi- 
tors taking part in the fun, as they call it. Now take a small rope 
(new ear bell-rope is best) about 25 feet in length, place the center in 
the check-hook, pass the ends through the loops or aragrumers on the 
over-draw, from the back side, and down through the bit-rings ; the 
same thence back through the rings on side of girt, (whi ch rings may 
be tied to any girt, with a good, stout string). Now take position as 
seen in illustration No. 6: 



20 



EDWARDS PRACTICAL 




Illustration No. 6. 

You may draw on the cord lightly, at times increasing the tightness 
until you get his head up a little. This will take some time, but is a 
very important lesson and should be well taught. After he will hold 
his head up well, keep it there; and if should show signs of lying down 
or bearing heavily in the check, slacken up and repeat until he will 
hold his head in a fair position. The beauty of this first lesson in 
checking by my method, is that there is no danger, as with the station 
ary check rigging, of the colt getting mad, and striking and rearing, 
for you can slacken up before he has a chance to do this, if you watch 
him closely. After he will hold his head up reasonably well, you may 
approach him, caress him, and let him rest. Do not, as in all other 
lessons, forget to caress him when he obeys. Now draw his head up 
again and tie the cord in a bow knot at his breast, as seen in illustra- 
tion No. 7 : 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



21 




Illustration No. 7. 



And if he has any notion of check fighting, or side reining, you 
can prevent it by pulling upon the cord on the off side if he carries 
his head to th. near side. By pulling upon the near one if he carries 
his head to the off side. Drive him around you in a circle both ways, 
keeping his head straight ahead of him, unless inclined to side rein, in 
which case look well to the outward edge of the upper molars. If they 
project, file them smooth with a float, and draw the cord through the 
ring, which will keep his head curved a little to the opposite side from 
which iie wants to carry it. This should take from 15 to 30 minutes 
and should be repeated for several days, according to the age and dis- 
position of the colt. 

Some say there is very little, if any, benefit to be derived from 
checking lessons, but I would like you to know that there are several 
reasons for the cheeking lessons, especially when given as herein de- 
scribed. In the first place, it teaches the colt that you can raise his 
head with ease whenever you please, whether you are infront, behind, 
or at his side, and gives you a splendid opportunity to make a study of 
his disposition, and teaches him the bearing of the bit, and with limited 
lessons of 15 to 30 minutes and repeating, you educate the head and 
render the neck to the purpose of being free and easy upon the rein. 
After he is sufficiently broken to the check rein, you can bring his head 
and neck into such position and style as his form and temper will 
allow or your fancy dictate. Remember, I am not a believer in check- 
ing a colt or a horse up with any kind of a check, and letting him, or 
making him, run in an enclosure, or driving him around "for hours" 
at a time. I think there are very few period in a horse's life when he 
is more brutally treated than when used this way. It only has a ten- 



22 ' EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



deney to make a "lugger", or "sway head" of him, and does not edu- 
cate him in the least. So never check a colt and make him suffer for 
hours with any check rig on. Better never checked, than checked in 
such a manner. 



Handling at the Head with Bridle. 

Place upon him Edwards' bridle, as seen in illustration No. 5. Leave 
the extension center piece in. If the mouth is very concave, you may 
raise it so it will press against the roof of the mouth when you pull 
back on the bit rings. After the bridle is adjusted on the horse, buckle 
gag runners up to the crown piece to hold the over-draws. Buckle into 
the bit rings two leading lines about 6 or 8 feet long, adjust the side 
loop so when you pull back on the reins the levers will slide toward the 
center of the bit and throw center piece to the roof of the mouth. 
Have the bit just a little below the corners of the mouth ; and for 
stubborn, willful subjects, have the strap, or slide loop, holding side 
levers over the nose, quite snug, ; for milder ones, not so snug. Now 
take the near leading rein, pass it over his neck and down on the off 
side, and through the off bit ring from the upper and inside. Then 
take the off rein, pa: s it over the neck, down the near side and through 
the near bit ring, from the upper and inside. Now take position a.s 
shown in illustration No. 8 : 




Illustration No. 8. 

Note. — If you subject is vicious or wild, and liable to bite and kick, you may 
use longer reins, and pass one each sido of the. center plate, and catch lines 
around the pole until he will give to the bit. 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



23 



Take a firm hold of each line in each hand and pull to the left and 
down, and your horse will be apt to follow. If he refuses, give a 
stronger pull, and repeat this work from both sides until he will turn 
readily both ways; then you may gradually work away from, and a 
little farther back, until he will move around you readily at some dis- 
tance away. Now lead him straight ahead and repeat. These lines 
over the check should be narrow or round, and not twisted, one a little 
back of the other and about ten inches back of the crown piece of the 
bridle. A small rope may be used for this, tying knots below the bit 
ring, so they will not slip through the hands. Do not check while 
giving him leading lessons. Repeat the lessons until you get good 
control of the head. 



Reining to Drive. 



You may now take out these reins and put in a pair of good, heavy, 
inch and a quarter lines, about 18 feet in lenghf. You must have a 
good, round, smooth pole, or post, about the size of a wagon tongue is 
large enough, and place it-in the center of your training yard or barn 
floor, so it will stay. Take two pieces of scantling and nail them down 
in the shape of a V and place the pole between them ; then nail down 
another piece at the open tide (this will keep it at the bottom, if on a 
floor) if in the ground, set it firmly. Secure the top so it will 
stay, and you have something that will help you more than a man. 
in reining a vicious colt or horse. Take position as seen in illustration 
No. 9: 




Illustration No 



24 EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



Pass the off line through the ring on oft side and o- er his back ; now 
pass the near line around the pole, take in left hand and give a light 
pull, and at the same time slap him on the hip with the off line ; drive 
and handle him from both sides the same, and repeat ; if he refuses to 
go, pull on the line around the pole and slap him about the hips with 
the off line. While driving around the center pole, you may work the 
off line down around his hips at the place ol the breeching. (See il- 
lustration No. 9. Now if he should kick, draw his head up to the pole 
and hold him there, toss the off line upon his back, then take an ex- 
tension line and buckle it to the end of the off line, which should be 
lying across his back. Now take the end of this line, pass it through 
the ring on near side from back side, and the near line around the cen* 
t r pole, as seen in illustration No. 15 (or pass it through the ring, as 
seen in dotted lines in illustration No. 15 for kickers : this will give you 
a double-ring purchase, and after doubling him up a few times, he will 
not offer to kick at the rein about his hips in place of breeching). 
Now step up to him and carefully work the off line down over his 
rump, holding to the end of lines with the left hand. Now, if he tries 
to kick, hold to him and pull the line through the ring, and there is no 
horse that can get the best of you. Keep a firm hold and follow 
around after him, and he cannot hurt himself or you either. I have 
yet to find the horse, mustang, or mule, that can get away with this 
purchase. Repeat, and work from both sides the same until he is 
willing to have the line about his hips in place of breeching. You may 
now take the lines out, let him rest, and caress him. (Give him apples, 
oats, or something else that he likes. Even with the worst horse, this 
will be found a great help, as well as with the more clever ones.) It 
diverts the channel of his thoughts from his work to rest and ease. 
You are now ready to give him lessons in starting and stopping. 

I have said nothing as yet in regard to the word " Whoa." This is 
the most important of all the commands the horse has to learn. Why? 
Because, if he knows he must stop and stand when you say whoa, he 
never will run, turn around, kick, etc. ; therefore, never undertake to 
drive a horse to a light vehicle until you are sure he will stop when 
you pull upon him and say " whoa." To make him do this easily, take 
position as seen in illustration No. 10, 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



25 




Illustration No. 10. 



Stand directly behind him. give the Command to start, and at the 
Same time, move the bit lightly in his mouth, to the right or left. If 
he will not start, take the near line out of side ring, step to the front 
and a little to the left, pull on the near line, and then throw it ahead. 



26 EDWARDS 7 PKACTICAI/ 



Immediately after, slap him with the off line around the hips, or tap 
him lightly with the whip. If he gets in a balky sulk, apply the 
smothering nose-pieee and he will start, for he cannot breathe unless 
he does ; and there is no animal living that will not start before he will 
suffocate. After he starts, take position behind him (see illustration 
No. 10), and as he goes around the center pole, work close to it, draw- 
both lines around it, and say *' whoa," in a smooth, firm tone. This 
will stop him, no matter how hard he may try to get away. Do not 
hold him too long ; ease up ; start him again, and repeat. He will 
soon stop by your setting him back with the lines and giving the word 
" whoa." Repeat these lessons until he will stand at the word ik whoa." 
1 use only two reins in my driving and training, as I think it is too late 
to try to teach the American horseman to drive with three lines, as 
some methods recommend. Furthermore, that a forward motion of 
the line and slapping the horse's face, as it were, or thumping the bit 
in the mouth (as I have practiced a long time), though I am preceded 
by another in bringing it before the public, which I can prove I have 
used for years (see testimonial), has a tendency to start the horse ; but 
I have seen many a horse that would stand and take this forward mo- 
tion until the line was worn into, and then would not start, while a 
tender-mouthed horse will jerk his head and act awkward if you are 
too severe, or give him the forward motion of the line too much. The 
little smotherer needs no motion to start any horse. This forward mo- 
tion of the line is good for control while you are upon the ground, 
some distance from the horse (but for control when you are near the 
horse, see illustration No. 8). I do not believe it is right to teach a 
horse to start ahead by a steady pull, as seen in illustration No. 8, and 
then the next thing give him a steady pull to stop him. The leading 
purchase is to lead a horse and make him familiar with the bit, while 
a pull upon both reins is used to stop him, and a motion of one rein to 
start him. According to the following testimonial, I think it can be 
done easily with my bit ; 

St. Elmo, Texas, August 5, 1885. 

While Mr. C. L. Edwards lived in this county, I saw him train a number of 
horses. 1 also assisted him at different times ; used the forward motion of the 
line, as directed by him, and saw him as the first one to use this motion of line . 
In his training here, he never made a failure. 

W. C. Read, Austin, Texas. 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



27 



You are now ready to complete your breaking harness, 
illustration No. 11: 



as seen in 




Illustration No. 11. 



tlepeat these former lessons a few times. Construct a breaking 
imlkj as seen in illustration No. 12: 



28 



EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 




Fig. 1— Hand piece. Fig. 2— Hearing preventive. 

Illustration No. 12. 

Dimensions:— Axletree, 2 feet from center to ground ; thills, Z}4 feet apart at 
bolts in front side of sulky and 3 feet apart at front ends. 

For sulky you may take the front axle of a light or medium weight 
team wagon. Take out the tongue and place the hind wheels on, in 
place of the front one, to make the sulky the right height. Get two 
poles the size of a wagon tongue and about 11| feet long. Bolt a plank 
to them, and then bolt these to the axle, having the formost plank far 
enough ahead to cover the hound. Bolt a box about 2 feet high, 1 foot 
wide, and 4 feet long, on lengthwise as seen in illustration No. 12, so 
you can sit astride; make some good foot braces, and you have a sulky 
that if made of good timber no horse can break, let him do what he 
may. Now take the sulky into the training yard and proceed to make 
your colt familiar with it by first leading him into the thills and out. 
Diive him out in the road and back, then lead him into the thills 
again, and repeat. Drive him out into a good meadow lot if you can, 
as this is the best place to teach any colt to turn around, and give him 
his first lesson in driving. Now drive him back to the sulky. You 
will not need any breeching. Nail or screw some good, firm pieces of 
leather lengthwise on the bottom of the sulky thill, about where the 
hips will come. Wind a good rope around and across the thills, pass- 
ing it through the space left for it between the leather, to serve as a 
breeching (See illustration No. 12). Draw the rope tight, tie it, and 
wind the whole length around with a good string. This will make a 
round roll and will not cut or chafe. You may wind this with cloth of 
some kind if you wish. Lead your colt into the thills again with his 
head toward the sulky ; lift up the thills, chafe them against his sides 
and hips, lead him out and bring him up at right angles with the thills, 
make him stop with his front feet between the thills, then hind ones 
the same ; pull him a little to the left, which will bring him in position 
to hitch, raise up your thills slowly and proceed to hitch him. If he 
should refuse to stand in thills, tie him with his head in corner of en- 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 29 

closure, or tie him each way so he will be obliged to stand in center of 
floor, run sulky up to him carefully, and chafe thills up and down his 
hips and hind legs. As he is tied in the center, he cannot possibly get 
away, and you can hitch him to the sulky. Draw him tight enough in 
the harness to make the rope cross-bar nearly touch his hips, hitch 
your traces, buckle kicking-holders, and put a strap around the thills 
and under his body, just back of front legs, so as to keep thills down ; 
a rope will answer for this, if you have no strap ; draw them up snugly 
and your horse is properly hitched. Take him by the near line with 
left hand, about three feet from the head, with off line passing around 
his hips, or, better still, through ring on his back ; take in right hand, 
as seen in illustration No. 1(5, and lead him around the yard a few 
times. If he acts very nervous, stop him often, caress, and repeat. 
After he leads well, you may get on the sulky and proceed to drive 
him around the yard a few times. (Remember, this yard should be 
free from plows, harrows, etc.) He will not refuse to go, if his former 
lessons have been properly taught him. If he should refuse to go, step 
to one side and a little to the front and throw the line upon that side 
sharply forward, at the same time slapping him around the hips with 
the other line. If he still refuses, apply smotnering nbse-pieee and he 
will go. Drive him out in the meadow carefully until you get him into 
the field, then proceed to turn him to the right and left, stopping often 
and earessing him. He cannot kick, as the strap over his hips will 
hold him down and the rope breeching will catch the force of his kick 
backward, so there is no danger of his hurting either himseif or you. 
This is a good time to get him used to being touched around the hind 
legs with the whip. When hitched, tell him to start, and touch him 
lightly around the hind legs as you sit in the sulky. If he should 
make an attempt to kick, touch him sharply once around the hind legs, 
change the bit in his mouth strongly, tell him to behave in a good, firm 
tone; and by repeating, your colt will never kick, or refuse to start 
when told to go or touched with the whip. (I am not a believer in 
back and shoulder whipping, only for trotting and trick horses, in some 
cases, because it is not the practice and canno< be made the practice 
as the whips made for road-driving purposes are not long enough and 
even if they were, no one that owns a good horse wants him ridged 
over the back and shoulders. If they should think it necessary to use 
the whip upon him, as a rule it always has and always will be the prac- 
tice for horsemen to whip about the hind legs when driving on the 
road.). Drive your colt around the field several times, then to the 
barn, unhitch him and put him in the stable. Do not try to teach him 
another thing at present. Repeat these lessons several times. Drive 
him in the road, hitched to the sulky, several times, always hitching 
him as directed, and in a few days you will have a colt that knows 
more about being driven than he would if he had been used two 



30 



EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



months with an old horse. If you think he is liable to throw himself, 
arrange the rope-breeching for enough ahead so when he goes down 
and gets up again, he cannot get his front legs over the thills, also fas- 
ten the thills well up on his sides. It is a good plan to have the lines 
out of the territs, in driving, the first few times. If you wish, you 
may substitute any other method instead of this plan that you think 
the case may require. But if you follow these directions closely, there 
will be no limbs broken, lives lost, or damage done. 



Teaching the Colt to Back. 

Place upon him breaking-harness and bridle, adjusted properly (see 
illustration No 11), standing directly behind him, as seen in illustra- 
tion No. 13 




Illustration No. 13. 



The backing lesson should not be given until the Colt has been 
driven several times, and minds the other commands well, as he will 
then be under better control by the use of the Bit, which is the all 
important instrument in training any horse, and not so liable to run 
back. Now take the colt out on some good level place, stand directly 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



31 



behind him, say " back," give a strong pull on both lines, and slacken 
immediately. If he takes one step back or to one side, caress and re- 
peat, always slacking up quickly after you pull back, and in a short 
time your colt will back all right. (If you brace or pull steady, he will 
learn your weakness, and you cannot back him that way at all.) If he 
should start ahead, move the bit sharply through his mouth, say 
"whoa," and repeat; back as before. If he still starts ahead, take 
him to center-pole and catch him around pole as described in learning 
" whoa," hold the lines around the pole with the right hand, and take 
hold of the near line, close to the bit, with left hand ; pull back and 
to the left. If he should start ahead, catch him with the lines around 
pole and repeat, and he will soon back readily. "Take time.'''' If he 
is hard to back, three or four lessons will be necessary. If he should 
rear, take position as seen in illustration No. 14. 




Illustration No. 14. 



Say "Back," and give quick, strong pulls back and to the left and 
he will take a step or two toward you. Caress and repeat. This will 
keep him on his feet, and by gradually working away from his head he 
will back all right. Work the same from both sides. If he should be 
a chronic rearer, you may give backing lessons hitched to the the sulky 
as instructed in the lesson on rearing, with rearing preventative fasten- 
ed to the hind end of the sulky. Here he will not rear and will give 
up the habit entirely. If you fail, look for lesson entitled: "Bad to 
Back." 



EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



I WILL NOW GIVE A FEW LESSONS ON THE HABITS OF THE 
MATURE HORSE. 



The Kicking Horse. 



Place upon the horse Edward's Bridle, as seen in illustration No, 
14. Begin by giving him strong pulls to the right and left. The horse 
must be made to know that the bit was made to govern. If you do 
not get control of a horse's mouth and head you cannot teach him. 
Immediately after you give each pull, slacken upon the lines. This 
will prevent him from rearing, throwing himself, or getting a pull on 
you in any way. Use longer leading lines if you like. Now you may 
give him a lesson in each of the former lessons, except halter br ■ aking 
and checking, though you may, if a check fighter, give him a checking 
lesson. When it comes to placing the lines down around his hips after 
the other lessons, you may take position as seen in illustration No. 15 : 




ILLUSTRATION JfO. 15- 

Work the off line down to this position from his back. Stand with 
a firm hold of both lines. Tap him with whip, saying '"Get up", and it 
he offers to kick, shut him up by pulling on both lines. If he makes it 
a little warm for you to catch him around the center pole, say "'Whoa' ' 
and stop him. Ropeat this until he -will allow the use of the line* 
around his hips in place of the breeching. 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



If you fail to stop his kicking in this manner, place a good fitting 
strap around each leg, above the fetlock joints, with rings on. Attach 
a strap to the ring on his off front leg, pass it over the girth and back 
to his near hind leg and fasten to the strap on that leg. Now attach 
a strap to the ring on the near front leg and pass it over the 
girth and back to the off hind leg and fasten to the strap on that 
leg. He can trot or walk with this upon him, but cannot kick, with 
either foot. He may try to, but in doing so he will jerk up his front 
feet if your straps are arranged right, and he will soon stop. In kick- 
ing with this rig on, he does not jerk upon his mouth, and thereby 
punish himself unreasonably. It may be necessary to tie a ring on the 
back strap, just in front of his hips, and pass another strap through 
this and attach to the straps on each side that are upon his legs, to 
keep him from stepping over them ; always use straps for this, as they 
will not chafe or hurt the legs like rope. This arrangement will make 
a pacing horse trot. The harness for pacing, however, should be lined 
with wool where it goes around the legs, and always placed above the 
fe'lock joints instead of below. Now let him rest, give him something 
to eat, and caress. Do not take any pole about the kicking horse to 
pole him about the legs (use a longbow-top whip for this purpose). 
Men of limited practice cannot handle a pole, kicking horse and reins, 
without a mix-up, and, nine times out of ten, you will get a horse to 
kicking by maneuvering around him with a pole. My way y is to pre- 
vent this horse from kicking every rime he tries, and not tantalize him 
by making him walk straddle of a pole (as some theories instruct. Do 
you ever want to use a horse straddle of a pole ? No). If you stop 
his kicking, he will never get straddle of a pole, thills, etc. In my ex- 
perience, the least maneuvering you have around a kicker the better you 
are off ; only to thoroughly teach him he must not and cannot kick, 
when commanded not to, by use of bit and command. Now you are 
ready to hitch him into the breaking-sulky. Draw him back snug in 
the gears, so the rope-breeching will come close to his hips, adjust the 
kicking-holders over his hips and buckle quite snug, as seen in illustra- 
tion No. 16. 



34 



EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 




Illustration No. 16. 

Now say "Get up'' and give him a pull on the near line and at the 
*ame time tap him lightly with the whip. If his former lessons have; 
been thorough he will start. Drive him around you in a circle in the 
training yard both ways several times, and finally get up on the 
sulky. Never fear — he cannot possibly kick if your harness, etc. , are 
good material. Drive him out into the meadow lot, and here give him 
a thorough lesson in turning, stoping after starting by word, accompa 
nied by a tap of the whip. Repeat next day, and continue until he 
will not offer to kick; then yon may drive to carriage, with overdraw 
buckled into the levers and side loop, well down on the nose. If he 
makes an attempt to kick, stir the bit sharply. 



If you follow these rules closely, you can break a kicker every time. 
Why? Because he cannot kick and forgets it, from habit forced Upoi* 
his mind by practice. After you get your horse in thills and hitched, 
you may remove the leg harness if you like. 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 35 



Kicking in Double Harness, 

Handle exactly the same as kicking horse single, and while in the 
thills have a gentle horse with the harness on and lead hirn up by the 
side of the kicker. Put on a pair of cross lines and neck yoke. Leave 
your single lines on the kicker and place them across the seat. Start 
them up, and if he should try to kick, correct him by using single lines 
Sharply. He cannot kick, and you may drive him this way until he 
does not offer to. Then remove him from the sulky to a team wagon. 
The nest time hitch first to the sulky and then from that to a team 
wagon again, and he will not kick for the same reason as the other — 
simply force of habit. 



The Balky Horse. 

Place upon him Edward's Bridle, as seen in illustration No. 14. 
Handle him thoroughly right and left or your time will only be wasted. 
Give him reining lessons nntil he will turn readily either way at the 
word or movement of the lines. There are several classes of balkers. 
Some balk single ; some double ; some on a plow, etc. My theory will 
never fail if properly applied. I handled one balky horse for Phoenix 
Miller in Te* xas (see testimonial) which had been handled by five differ- 
ent men and was considered by Mr. Miller as worthless to work. This 
horse would balk and if told to start, would throw himself flat upon 
the ground and would not get up. I do not believe any man could 
have trained him to drive without the use of the smothering nose 
piece. He would also take spells of sulking and kicking and pay no 
attention to the whip or bit. I applied the smothering nose piece and 
trained this horse so I drove him, with my wife and child, to Mr. Mil- 
ler's, hitched to a top carriage. From this carriage I hitched this horse 
to a plow, and he worked all right. His age was 9 years, he was 15 
hands high, and weighed 1100 pounds, and was of the mustang element. 
I only write this as an explanation to show what effect smothering will 
have on balky horses. Now, if your horse balks, first find out if the 
driver is not a little balky. Then, after the driver is found to be all 
right, if he balks, place upon the smothering nose piece as seen in illus- 
tration No. 17 ; pass the tugs back through the rings used for kicking 
holders, as seen in illustration No. 11. Tie close to the hips where the 
breeching comes with a good, stout strap, then tie to the end of this 
strap a chunk of wood. Take up the tugs so that when you place on a 
single tre] it will be close to the hips, or better, tie a strap in the place 
of single tree. • 



36 



EDWARDS PRACTICAL 




Illustration No, 17. 



Now stand infront and a little to the left, as seen in illustration 
No. 17. Pull upon the strap that leads to the smothering nose piece, 
and he will start immediately. Slacken up to let him know that he 
has done right. If you have no smothering nose piece, you may stand 
infront of him and a little to one side, and give him the forward motion 
of the line. Raise the line up a little, slacken and throw it sharply 
ahead and slightly upward at the same time, and use Edwards' Bit. 
Caress and feed him some apples, etc. Work him a little while this 
way, then tie on a larger chunk and drive him out in the field, and so 
on. Increase the weight of this until it is the heft of a plow. The 
beauty of this plan is, it does not give the horse any chance to get in a 
mixup if he backs up. He cannot get out of the traces and the strap 
will not hurt his legs; and by putting the heaft on gradually, he is 
drawing all right before he knows it. Gradually work away from his 
head, and you will soon bs behind your horse plowing. Remove the 
chunk of wood and hitch onto the plow. Catch the plow in now and 
then, and soon you can run the plow in all right. If he balks double 
on the plow, drive another horse on his off side, with him dragging the 
chunk; then change to the plow. If nervous or nighty, use blind 
bridle. If he balks to wagon, use the same as before, only hitched to 
the breaking sulky. If he balks double to wagon, place a horse by 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMA.NSHIP. 



37 



his side as described for a kicker. Use this way until he will draw all 
right, always placing him on the near side at first. You can increase 
the load on the sulky by placing on several good sized flat stones, one 
at a time. For horses that run back, a lesson will be found on the 
following pages. A very nervous balky horse is best trained on the 
sulky and disposed of for a roadster. 



The Runaway. 

Grive him a thorough lesson in reining, as for balky horse, and 
then use him around center pole several times ; catch him, and stop 
him suddenly at the word " whoa," as seen in illustration No. 18. 




Illustration No. 18. 



Do not stop until you have got a dead certain "whoa" on him, even 
if you are obliged to use blind, bridle and whip to get him on the bit, 
and then catch him around the center pole and set him back in a way 
that will make him think whoa is a word that must be minded. Re- 
peat this several times, then hitch him to sulky, and if there is any 
one thing he is afraid of, make him familiar with it before driving. 
As I have said before, no matter how much fear a horse may show, he 
can be made to stand to have anything, no matter how frightful, 
brought around and on him, if in compliance with the laws of his na- 
ture, provided no pain is inflicted ; that is, you cannot take a wild 
horse around a steaming engine, or even drive him over a bridge, as in 
so short a time he has never seen any such thing and knows nothing of 
it, and it is not in compliance with the laws of his nature. If it be the 
cars or a road engine, get him used to them gradually. Do not think 



EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



you can drive a horse that is very much afraid, right up to the cars in 
an instant. The man who says he can do this, is a little "off." Take 
time ; and if you have no time, hire some competent man that has, 
if your horse is worth a good training ; if not, fatten him and sell him. 
If at any time your runaway horse should show signs of fear, or try to 
go faster than you think he ought, say "steady," and set him back (do 
this now and then, even if he shows no fear; ; it will keep the impres- 
sion upon his mind and teach him not to run when you say "steady" 
and pull on the lines. If at any time he should get under headway, 
keep him in the middle of the road, throw his head from one side to 
the other, which you can do if you have bridle and bit properly ad- 
justed, and he will stop. Now drive him back to the place from which 
he started, get off the sulky and give the lines one wrap around the 
near hub of wheel, letting the end you have hold of come under and out- 
side ; always place the lines under the hub, thence around back and 
over hub once. Now hold to the ends of the lines, make him start, 
and if he tries to run, say "whoa," holding fast to the lines, and he 
will soon find out that you can hold him ; for the more he goes, the 
Tighter the lines draw. As soon as he stops, let up on the lines and 
stand ready in case he should try again. If he stands, you may tell 
him to start, and touch him a little with the whip ; then say "whoa," 
and hold to the lines around the hub, and he will be obliged to stop. 
1 once broke a horse in this way. He would mind the word "whoa" 
any and everywhere, only in one place, and there he would start and 
run every time. After I wound him up three times, I had no further 
trouble in holding: him. If your lines and harness are good materia], 
you can hold any horse this way, when hitched to break sulky. 

There is another way to hold a desperate runaway. This is, to use 
the trip lines : Place upon each front ankle a good-fitting strap with 
ring on it ; buckle a good pair of lines in these, with rein-holders, so 
he cannot jerk them out of your hands ; pass them over the girts and 
back, and after training him in former lessons, hitch to break sulky ; 
take these lines, and aiso the ones from bit, in your hands, hold the 
reining lines between thumb and forefinger, take the trip-lines in the 
other three fingers, and when he starts to run, pull hard on the lines 
all together, and he will trip down on his nose. If there is snow on 
the ground, it will not hurt him ; but if not, you can easily pad his 
knees with some cloth, so he will not injure them ; or take him to a 
ploughed field. This arrangement will more thoroughly take the con- 
ceit out of a desperate runaway or a desperate kicker, and in less time, 
than anything else. Of course, judgment must be exercised, and do 
not trip him but a few times, as there is no need of it. This method 
is used by the best horse-ttainers to teach horses to go without reins, 
etc. If your thills are stout, they will not break, and you wiil have no 
trouble in that direction. By following the little advice laid down for 
the management of this kind of a horse, you will never be outdone 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 39 

or get run away with. The first horse of my own training has yet to 
get away from me with harness on and hitched to break-sulky. It will 
be the same with you, if you follow the rules herein described. 



The Check Fighter. 



The horse of mature age that has become a check fighter, or sulks 
one the check, is very hard to handle ; at least, I have found them so, 
more especially among the western horses or mustangs than any of the 
native horses. To train the horse, take a good stout blind bridle, with 
bitting rig adjusted as in No. 7, and a good stout pair of long lines 
buckled to bit. Pass lines through rings on girt, get directly behind 
him, start him up, and if he makes a sulk on the check, throw his head 
from one side to the other, which will disconcert him and he will soon 
go off all right. By repeating, he will forget to brace in check and the 
habit will be entirely broken up, in most cases. If some one has made 
a stubborn check-fighter of him and he refuses to be checked at all, 
lies down, rears, plunges, etc., you may take eight or ten feet of small 
rope (car bell-cord is good) and bind his head by making a small loop 
on one end of the cord, pass the cord through the mouth and over the 
head, just back of the ears, then through loop oh the end, and draw 
up tight ; then pass the cord through mouth again, and so on until it 
is all wound on the head, through the mouth, placing each preceding 
stran just back of the other ; that is, winding back on the neck in- 
stead of making a bunch on top of the head. When all is tightly 
wound on, tie, and turn loose. This is only for the worst cases of 
check and rein fighters. N. B. — Do not leave this on more than five 
minutes, and repeat if necessary. 



. The Hard Puller, 

When a man makes the assertion that he can break up this habit 
in a few lessons, so that the horse can be driven on any bit, as Will 
Hereafter Show, you can make up your mind that he is a crank. For 
instance, if you were driving a trotter, and he had been a hard puller, 
and you had found a bit that you could manage him with and keep 
him from running away, no matter what kind of a bit or combination 
check you might have upon him, if you Should take it off and place 
upon him a common rubber bit, do you think you could hold him ? 
You might just as well say that you could hold him with a halter. Use 
this horse with Edwards' bit and bridle, as described for runaway as 



40 



EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



seen in illustration No. 18, then hitch him to some light vehicle, take 
him to a track, or on the road, start him up, and if he takes the bit too 
hard, set him back, as in former lessons, and he will soon learn the 
same power is there to hold him as before. Keep the bridle and bit on 
and adjust the slide loop down over the lower swell, or middle one, in 
a position that he will drive pleasant upon, and leave it there ; at any 
time he shows signs of pulling too hard, run the slide loop down over 
the lower swell ; this increases the pressure upon the nerves, as herein 
described, while raising it, lessens the pressure. 



Bolters or Side Pullers. 

Look at the molar teeth, or grinders, as they are commonly called, 
as they may cut either one side or the other, and cause the animal to 
pull upon one line. If they seem rough and uneven, have your veteri- 
nary surgeon float them off with a float ; if this does not break up the 
habit, take position as seen in illustration No. 19. 




Illustration Xo. 19- 



If he bolts, or pulls To the right, pass the near line around pole 
and give a strong pull upon it, and at the same time slap him around 
the hips with the off line ; keep on giving these strong pulls in this 
manner until he will give to the pull of the rein readily. If he 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. ' 41 

bolts, or pulls to the left, pass the off line around center pole, give 
strong pulls upon it, and repeat, and you can break any side-puller. 
(It is a good plan to have this horse thoroughly bitted and check-reined 
before commencing to drive him.) Drive him out into the road, or up 
and down the floor, and occasionally give a strong pull upon the rein 
on opposite side to which he pulls, until he ,vill move his head this way 
as easy as that ; then you may hitch him and drive with Edwards' 
bridle. Slide loop well down on his nose, and at any time he tries to 
pull on one line, give him a determined pull in the opposite direction, 
touch him up a little with the whip, and repeat the straightening pull, 
and you will make him perfect. It is a good plan to carry the whip for 
a while on the opposite side from the way he carries his head, and oc- 
casionally give it a switch, to draw his attention that way ; use open 
bridle for this practice. A horse that bolts, or pulls hard both ways, is 
not properly educated in reining, and needs lessons in reining to break 
it up. 



The Cranky Horse. 



There are in horses, as in men, cranks ; that is to say, they seem 
quite bold in their undertakings, yet are very easily overset. Because 
a man is in the horse business, or any other business, and his whole 
soul is bound up in it, it is no sign that he is a crank, as some would 
pronounce him. But if a horse is a bolter, or side-reiner, and seem- 
ingly can-be driven in no other way, and by chance or otherwise you 
discover he can be easily overthrown or controlled, it shows he was a 
crank, provided no irritating cause existed to promote his misdoings, 
which irritation shonld always be removed, whether the animal be 
cranky or viscious. A melancholy say-nothing, or a continual talker, 
will never succeed in any business. While at times silence is power, 
the right thought spoken at the right time, in the right way, has often 
greater power than silence. Even in training, undue familiarity will 
breed contempt in the horse, as it will with your associates, and should 
be avoided. 



42 



EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



Whirling Around. 



Some horses have the habit of always whirling around one way, 
while others may go either way. Handle this horse exactly the same 
as for bolter or side-puller. Use the Edwards bridle, as shown in illus- 
tration No. 20. 




Illustration No. 20. 
And for one that always whirls the same way. that is, if he whirls 
1o the right, pass the near line around center pole, and wake him up' 
occasionally with the whip ; if he tries to turn to the right, give him 
the bit in the opposite direction, and proceed to handle him from both 
sides if needed. Hitch him to break sulky and set him in motion with 
the whip ; watch him closely, and if he makes a move to whirl, apply 
the whip and erive him the pull in the direction you want him, and he 
will soon learn that you can manage him and keep him in the road. 
While driving this horse in the road, it is a good plan to pull him oc- 
casionally from one side to the other, so he will know you have the 
power to rein him. It is not safe to drive this horse to a light gig until 
he is thoroughly trained. 



Shying at Objects. 



There is but one thing to do with this horse to break him properly 
(providing his eyes are all right ; a moon-eyed horse, or one that is par- 
tially blind, is not really to blame for his shying). But the worst eases 
can be broken as follows : Handle him around the center pole with 
blind bridle and Edwards' bit, get up some fear of whip and bit, hitch 
him to break-sulky, drive him out into the road, and if at any time he 
shows fear or signs of shying, move vhe bit quickly from one side to 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



43 



the other in his mouth, touch him lightly with the whip to draw his 
attention, say "whoa" and stop him; do not let him stand long ; 
touch him lightly again with the whip, and command him to start. If 
he attempts to shy, throw his head strongly toward the object, and 
very soon after, throw it strongly the other way, then straight ahead, 
which in most cases will disconcert him so he will be all right. Do not 
whip your horse for showing fear, as it teaches him that the whip is 
coming to hurt him, and he will try the harder to get away. In most 
eases, fear is brought on by the sudden appearance of something 
which the horse sees in a different light from man and is frightened. 
On the other hand, if he had been taught by degrees that he would 
not be harmed, he never would have shown fear, whieh is the only 
proper way, as will be shown in lessons where a horse is afraid of a 
buffalo robe, etc. Most shyers drive better with open bridle, while 
sOme need the blinds, so they cannot watch the driver. 



Use Edwards' 
tion No. 21. 



Running Back. 

bridle, and take position as shown in illustra- 




iLLtTSTKATION NO. 21. 

Give him strong pulls to the right and left until his mouth is well 
Under the control of the bit ; after this, you may take off the leading 
lines, place upon him the break-harness, and use him a while around 
center-pole until he will turn readily either way ; handle him thor- 
oughly, the same as side-puller. Now hitch him to break-sulky, as 
seen in illustration No. 22. 



44 



EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 




Illustration No. 22. 



Place hind end of sulky against post or wall, tell him to start, or 
lead him ahead a few steps, and stop ; make him stand, and then tell 
him to back, and in the meantime, if he tries to run back, pull on the 
lines and say " whoa." Just before the hind end of sulky strikes the 
post, stop again 8 or 10 feet from the post, and tell him to start ; if he 
tries to run back, pull hard upon the lines, and just before the sulky 
strikes the post, say "whoa"; the rope cross-bar will take him across 
the hips and set him up in a way that he will not like. Repeat this 
lesson several times, and you can break any horse to stop running back 
when you say " whoa." Whenever training this horse, always stop him 
when possible so if he runs back the hind end of break sulky will 
strike some tree or other solid object, so he cannot back if you say 
,l whoa." I have broke some of the worst horses of this habit in this 
way. I never had one of my own training to form this habit, and I 
place the reason for it, in not teaching them to back until through 
with the other lessons ; he therefore does not learn to run back until 
he has learned to obey the other commands. 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



45 



Bad to Back. 

After giving him lessons as for training colt to back, take position 
as seen in illustration No. 23 : 




Illustration No. 23. 



Have your horse standing on the floor with hi 5 head in the corner, 
so he cannot go ahead. Give a strong pull upon the lines and say 
•'Back"; then slacken up immediately. The great fault with most 
people in teaching horses to back, they pull steady and hard on them, 
and they get braced, and the horse being the stronger, the man cannot 
move him back. If he has had his former lessons properly given, you 
can back him. But after you have given each of these ways a fair 
trial and do not succeed, as you might not if you had a sullen mustang, 
you may pass the off line directly from the bit, or smothering nose 
piece, back and up through a ring fastened on the back strap, just 
back of the back pad over his back, and take in right hand as seen in 
illustration No. 23|: 



46 



EDWARDS PRACTICAL 




Illustration No. 23>£. 

Now take the near line running directly from the bit to the left 
hand. Stand by his near side and give a quick, strong pull on the off 
line, This will throw his head to the off side. Hold it there for an 
instant, and at the same time hold steadily with the near line and 
slacken away on both reins quickly, then repeat as at first by throw- 
ing^his head to the off side and saying "Back'' in a mild tone. By 
repeating this, I never have found a horse of any kind I could no 
break in this way and educate him in a short time to back readily, by 
gradually working away from the side you will soon be behind your 
horse backing him all right. 



The Horse that will not Stand while Yon 
get In and Out of the Vehicle. 

This habit can only be broken up by giving him a thorough lesson 
in stopping and standing at the word whoa. Handle him thoroughly 
with Edward's Bridle. Pass the reins through the side rings or thill 
holders. Get behind him; switch the whip and let him start; catch 
him rro'ind center poll and say "Whoa". Rest and repeat, and when 
he stands well, hitch him to the break sulky and make some noise in 
getting in and if he tries to start, set back on the lines and say "Whoa" 
and do not allow him to stant until told. By repeating these lessons a 
few times he will stand all right. If you hitch this horse up in the 
barn a few times with the doors closed and have him stand awhile 
before starting, it will have a tendency to break him. If you fail 
apply the break lines as described for runaway. 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 47 

Afraid of Umbrellas, Robes, &c. 

Place Edwards' bridle upon the horse, as seen in illustration No. 8, 
pull him to right and left until he gives readily to the pull of the reins. 
Now, if he is afraid of buffalo robe, take a piece of an old one, fold it 
up, take it under the ' arm and approach him ; let him see only a part 
of it at first, and by gradually unfolding it, he will soon get so you can 
throw the robe over his neck and back in full size. Handle the same 
with paper or sheet, and tie a string to piece of paper and pull it 
around his feet, so at any time if a paper should get under him, he 
would not be frightened. Handle the same with an umbrella, etc., as 
with robe, giving a pull upon the lines at any time he shows fear, 
throwing his head toward the object he fears. In teaching not to be 
afraid of baby carriages, etc., handle much the same, only approach 
the object by degrees and have a long cord tied to the object, moving 
it occasionally toward him until he will allow you to draw it up to him 
without fear ; then lead him away, and ba^k to it again, and graudu- 
ally work away from the lead to a drive and you will soon be driving 
your horse right up to the object he was afraid of. If he has ever 
been badly frightened, it will take a little longer ; but it can be accom- 
plished with patience and kindness. Hitch your horse to break-sulky 
and nourish the robe over his back and around him until he shows no 
signs of fear ; use the same with the umbrella, and when he shows 
signs of fear, pull him back on the rope cross bar and hold him a short 
time, rest, and repeat these lessons ; take time, and good results will 
follow. Handle the same for horse that is afraid of whip, chains, 
tin pails, etc. The man that takes no time to educate his horses and 
colts and make them familiar with objects of fear, is liable to have 
damage enough done in five minutes to pay for several years' work. I 
have seen over one thousand dollars' damage done by a pair of horses 
in five minutes. 



Afraid of Top Carriage. 

Handle the same as for horse afraid of umbrella ; handle with the 
umbrella thoroughly, hitched to sulky ; then hitch to top-carriage 
with top down flat, and when driving on the road, raise it part way ; 
then after a time, raise it a little higher, and you will soon have your 
horse so that he will not be at all afraid of a top-carriage with the top 
clear up. At any time he should show signs of fear, move the bit in 
his mouth a little, which will attract his attention, and he is a safe 
horse to drive to top-carriage. It is advisable in some cases, and with 
some drivers, to use blind-bridle for this kind of a horse. But be sure 
and train with open bridle, and train ; don't half train any horse. If 
you train him at all, make a clear case of obedience on the part of the 
horse, and you will never regret it. 



48 



KDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



The Plunger to Train. 

He must be handled thoroughly with the Edwards bridle and bit, as 
advised for bolting and side-reining ; drive him around you, and 
switch the whip ; if he should rear and plunge, give him a determined 
pull upon the rein toward you ; this will bring him on his feet ; repeat 
and handle from the other side in the same manner. Now hitch him 
to break-sulky, and if he should plunge, do not say "whoa," or try to 
stop him, but throw his head from one side to the other strongly, and 
do not stop until he comes down ; then start him again. He will not 
try this many times, as no horse likes to have his head snatched from 
one side to the other many times with the combination bit, and he will 
stop it. Try to get a good pull on him every time when he is in the 
air, to one side, and when he comes down, let up, and by repeated les- 
sons, you can break any plunger perfectly. If very desperate, the 
trip-lines might be applied. 



The Halter and Bridle Puller of Ma- 
ture Age. 

After giving him thorough lessons in leading and turning, as shown 
in illustration No. 8, you may place upon him the pulling rig, as shown 
in illustration No. 24. 




Illustration No. 24. 



As to halter-breaking a colt, work him to and from the pole (note 
where the dotted lines are), piace a half-inch cord around his tail, and 
move the rope from the girth to flank ; in most cases, this will break 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



49 



up the habit. Some horses, however, are quite cunning, and will not 
pull until left alone, and then they will break loose if possible. They 
cannot break this rig ; but that is not the point wholly to be gained. 
The question naturally arises, ''How can I stop him from pulling 
on this rig?" This is the way : Fasten a cord to the smothering nose 
piece as seen in illustration No. 25: 




Il.LUSTKATION NO. 25. 

Draw up on the nose piece and drive him around the pole several 
times. Then tie him with the pulling rig on, as shown in illustration 
No. 24. You must tie him where you can run the cord that is fastened 
to the smothering nose piece through a hole in the shed or barn in front 
of him, or get out of sight behind him, so h« cannot see you but you 
can see him. Watch him, and when he pulls draw hard enough upon the 
smothering strap to stop his breath, and hold him there until he comes 
ahead. If he should lie down, give him one breath, then shut it off 
tight and he will get up. Every time he tries to pull, you pull on the 
smothering strap and he will soon find out that pulling stops his breath 
and that when he stops pulling, he can breath all right. There is no 
horse in the world that cannot be broken in this way if properly 
handled. I have broken horses 14 years old of halter pulling in this 
way, and have yet to And the first one I cannot break. Care and 
judgement must be used in not smothering him to death ; but of this 
there is little danger, as he will make some frantic endeavors before he 
will stand and suffocate. The person who has a bad puller, or a horse 
that will not stand to be untied, will appreciate this. 



50 



EDWARDS PRACTICAL 



Bad to Shoe in Front. 

If your horse rears, acts ugly, strikes, or kicks, use Edward's Bri- 
dle as seen in illustration No. 5 several times until you get control of 
his head. Then place upon him a good, stout leather girth, as .shown 
in illustration No. 26, The one used for breaking will do, or the back 
pad of a good work harness, with some rings tied to the belly band. 
To handie his front feet, place below his fetlock a good fitting strap, 
with a ring on it. Now buckle a line into this ring. Have him tied 
with pulling rig on. Pass this ring through one of the rings on the 
belly band. Touch his ankle with the whip and say "Take up". He 
will take a step, and then you pull on the line and it will draw his 
foot up to the ring. Hold it there for a few seconds, then let it down 
and caress him. If he should try to rear and strike, hold his foot, and 
at the same time with the other hand give him a strong pull upon the 
bit. (The bit can be placed upon any halter with two short straps to 
buckle on each side, and buckle»slide loop stay to nose piece or the hal- 
ter.) Repeat this and use from both sides the same, and you can soon 
teach any horse you can handle his feet. If he struggles too hard, 
you can let his foot down, where, if it were strapped up, he would be apt 
to throw himself, and if he should he down on the leg that was buckled 
up, it would be almost impossible to get him up, as you would have to 
roll him over before you could unbuckle his leg. But if you take po- 
sition as shown in illustration No. 26 there will be no danger of this, 




Illustration No. -2(>. 
and you are at a safe distance, and you can break any colt or vicioua 
horse to have his feet handled. Approach him carefully, and with a 
stick strike his foot lightly until he offers no resistance to have it- 
handled and hit or scraped with the stick. Repeat a few times and he 
is all right to shoe in front. 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



51 



Bad to Shoe Behind. 

Use the Edwards Bit as shown in illustration of the bit, much the 
same as in "Bad to Shoe in Front," only you take a large ring, twist 
his tail, slip the ring onto it and tie it so it will not come off, (If he is 
a spike tail, you can tie the ring to a strap attached to the crupper) 
Place the strap around his hind leg below the fetlock and buckle the 
line to it and then run it through the ring tied to the tail. Tell him to 
"take up", and tap his ankle with the whip as before and you can hold 
his foot with ease, as shown in illustration No. 27: 




Illustration No. 27. 
If he offers to kick, hold him and give him a strong pull upon the 
line running to bit. By repeating these lessons a few times you will 
be pleased to know how easy it is to handle a horse's feet. You should 
never handle a horse's foot and mouth together, as some horse would 
kick so hard at first that ther would be great danger of doing much 
damage to his mouth, and also of burning the ankles, and is apt to 
cause scratches. Educate his head and then his heels, each one sepa- 
rately. If a horse will take up one foot, it is no sign he will take up 
another. So, to have a horse jerk upon his mouth with all four of his 
feet, is not humane or practical. You can pull upon the line running 
to bit as many times or as few times as you wish, and at the same time 
handle the foot with the other hand. If the line was around his foot 
every time he jerked his foot, it would jerk his mouth ; and further- 
more, I have seen the failure of one horse-educator trying to handle a, 
horse, foot and mouth together — that is, the line running from bit to 
ankle-joint, and allowing him to kick upon it. The line was jerked 
from the trainer's hand several times, and the horse coming out winner 
every time. If you handle your horse's feet as described in illustrations 
Nos. 26 and 27, you will never hurt your horse, and never have any 
trouble in handling his feet. This method can be used in the black- 
smith shop, if necessary. (But it is far better to train the horse at 
Jioine, so when you take your horse to have him shod, you will have 
no trouble.) (A word to the wise is sufficient.) 



52 EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



Crowding or Leaning in Stall. 

Place upon your horse Edwards' bridle, tie him on barn floor with 
pulling rig, as seen in illustration No. 28. 



Illustration No. 28. 

Get a little to one side and say " stand over," at the same time tap- 
ping him on the ankle, and give a slight pull on the line on sane side ; 
this will have a tendency to make him stand over ; but if he offers to 
kick, or refuses to obey, take him sharply with the whip, and then 
throw his head to his side ; he will soon learn that he must stand over. 
If a sullen mustang and dangerous to handle, tie him with something 
he cannot break, in two directions, then blindfold him, and take a 
stick about five feet long — a hoe handle is good —and touch him lightly 
upon the hip ; then press it lightly against his side, just back of his 
front leg, and at the same time tap him on hip with the whip. 
As he cannot see it, he will get over to get out of the way. He 
will soon get over with the tap of the whip, as he will expect the 
combination if he does not. You must step from one side to the other, 
ns you wish him to stand over. After he stands over at the word 
" here " readily, take him into a wide stall and stand in same position; 
teach him to stand over so that when the lessons of 1 wo or three days' 
repetition are completed, he will stand over readily at slap of hand on 
hip or at the word ; then at any time when you wish to go in the stall, 
as he has been taught with the whip, you can take all willfulness out 
of him with a switch of the whip. If you do not use the whip, how 
are you going to get into the stall to get a bridle on him, if he refuses 
to let you in ? There is no other way to properly educate a horse to 
stand on his own side of the stair and stay there. I have handled 
stall-crowders that would as soon kill a man as not, and entirely broken 
up the habit in this way. This method is good to teach colts to stand, 
over also. 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



53 



Horse Afraid of Cars. 

Place upon hiin the Edwards bridle, as shown in bridle illustration. 




Illustration No. 29. 



Give him repeated lessons in reining, as for side-reiner and shyer. 
After he reins well, get behind him with reins running through rings on 
sides, take a good whip with lash about fcur feet long and stalk four 
feet, or convenient length, tell him to "get up," and give him a light 
pull to one side and use the whip around his hind legs ; repeat this un- 
til he will turn easily and quickly at touch of whip and slight pull on 
rein. To get thorough control of the horse, you must have a fear of 
the whip and thorough control with the bit in his discipline, or you 
never should attempt to get him near the cars. This will require in 
most cases four or five days (if very bad). Now take two bundles of 
damp straw, place them in yard or lot, and lead him up to them ; then 
place them 10 or 12 feet apart, light them with a match (have them 
damp enough so they will not blaze), lead him up to them, around 
them, and finally between them, until he will stand with the smoke 
waving over his head and around him ; at the same time ring a bell, 
blow a whistle or horn, and use this way until he will stand quietly. 
Now, if there is an engine in your neighborhood, or mill of any kind 
get them to fire up for you, and familiarize your horse with the steam 
and whistle by degree's, hitched to break-sulky as seen in illustration 
No. 30. 



54 



EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 




ILLUSTRATION NO. 



Then take him in field by ears ; do not try to get too close the first 
day. Keep him moving about at a distance, and gradually work up to 
the cars, and by occasionally stopping him and moving bit in his 
mouth, you can in most cases teach him not to fear the ears. The 
most prominent reason for most horses being afraid of the cars is that 
the driver himself is afraid, and the horse takes on the same nature. 
It is not possible to make some horses, particularly those of a very 
nervous temperament that have never been accustomed to cars, stand 
close to them, as it is not consistent with the laws of their nature. But 
I have yet to find a horse that I cannot handle to the cars by this prac- 
tice ; and in all ordinary cases, you will be successful handling in 
this way. 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 55 

The Horse Bad to Harness, 

Place upon him Edward's Bridle, and take position as seen in 
illustration No. 31 : 




Illustration No. 31. 

Use in this way until you get good control of the head, then take 
the lines in one hand and the harness in the other and work the har- 
ness gently about him, and if he makes an attempt to move, correct 
him with the bit, and just as you throw the harness over his back, give 
a strong pull on the lines. This will draw his attention to the bit and 
you can educate him in a few lessons to stand all right while being 
harnessed. You should not be in a hurry, or throw the harness on the 
horse until he is thoroughly convinced that it will not hurt him; then 
care should be taken not to irritate or scare him at any time, Take 
the back pad of a single or light harness to commence with. After he 
will allow you to throw this upon him without offering much resistance 
you may take a heavy harness. Always place the bridle upon the 
horse before trying to harness, until he is thoroughly educated. 



Bad to Crupper. 



The first thing *o teach this horse is that he is not going to be hurt 
in any way. This habit in most cases is caused by ignorant or careless 
person placing the crupper under the tail when the back strap was too 
short, and when he dropped his tail, it hurt him, Always in placing 
the crupper on, have the harness loose enough so the crupper will not 
draw on the tail. Standing oa the near side you take the lines in the 



56 EDWARDS' PRACTICAL, 



left hand. Take hold of the horses tail and begin to raise it up and 
pull upon it. If at any time he shows signs of kicking, give him the 
bit sharply to let him know that you are not to be trifled with in that 
manner, and repeat. Every time raise his tail a little higher until yoi 
get it over his back. You may now brush his tail lightly on the under 
side with the hand, and if at any time he tries to kick, correet him 
sharply with the bit, and when he will allow yon to handle his tail 
without scringing, you may wind some cl >th upon a snioth stick about 
2 feet long and commence by placing this under his tail. Do not pull 
on the stick or try to remove it without first raising his tail. When be 
will allow it under his tail without offering resistance, you may place 
upon him the girth and back strap and atta'ch a crupper made as 
follows: Take any buckle crupper and wind it with cloth until the size 
of the one shown in illustration No. 32 or larger— 3 or i inches in di- 
ameter. 




Illustration No. 32. 

Or what is still better, one made as seen in illustration No. 32, of 
good, soft leather, stuffed. Buckle this large crupper to the crup- 
per strap and proceed to put it on him. Take the lines in the left 
band. Raise left hand over his back and then raise his tail with the 
right hand and take in same hand with the lines. The crupper should 
now be lying on his rump. Take the crupper in the right band and 
carefully bring ic around and place it under his tail, and if he offers to 
scringe, correct him with the left hand. Buckle this crupper and leave 
it on him over night, or at least 6 or 8 hours. This will make his tail 
pliable and you can in a few lessons place the crupper on any 
horse, providing you get up some fear of the bit. Unless you do you 
caunot make a success of it. He must be made to know that the bi i- 
there to control him, even at a slight pull. There certainly is no 
horse you cannot crupper in this way if you use patience and goodl 
judgment. 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



57 



The Horse that Hugs the Line. 



Handle this horse the same as in "Bad to Crupper", and after his 
tail becomes pliable by the use of the enlarged crupper, as seen in il- 
lustration No. 33, take position as seen in illustration No. 13: 




Illustration No. 



Now drive him around the pole and gradually work the line up 
under his tail, and if at any time he should scringe or try to hug the 
line, correct him with the other line at the bit. Drive him in this way 
until he will allow you to carry the line under his tail in any way, 
chafing it up or down, and you will never fail in educating this horse 
properly. At any time when he has been idle for a long time and 
might show signs of hugging the line, place upon him the large crupper, 
and he will remember as he was taught, that he cannot hug the line 
with this on, and in a few days you can remove it and he will be all 
right. 



58 EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



The Switcher. 

Place upon the switcher the large crupper ; make it still larger, if 
necessary, to raise the tail somewhat. Leave this on for some time. 
Be very careful not to irritate this horse to make him switch. If you 
can start him by a light pull upon the bit to one side, and he will not 
switch, start him this way. If not, try and find some way of starting, 
stopping, etc., that will not irritate, and he will not switch much. 
If afraid of whip, keep whip still, only when necessary to use same. 
When about this horse in stable, take hold of the tail as you pass by ; 
this will prevent the switching, and by careful handling, most young 
horses will not make bad switchers. Turn him carefully and slowly, 
stopping occasionally, when educating, and he will improve. 



The Old Confirmed Switcher. 

This horse should be handled the same as switcher, and after keep- 
ing the enlarged crupper on for some time, you may divide the tail ; 
tie a ring in the end of each half (place collar and hames upon horse) ; 
take about 16 feet of cord and tie to ring in tail on near side, pass it 
through lower ring on hame on same side, then up through the upper 
ring between the hames, or over the top of collar, down through up- 
per ring and then lower one on off side, then back through ring on off 
side of tail ; raise the tail up over the back draw-cord tight enough to 
hold tail down over the back and tie ; pass the tree end under the belly 
and tie to cord on opposite side ; draw this quite snug and it will hold 
the tail down close to the back. Leave this on for three or four hours, 
then take it off and leave it off six or eight hours ; then repeat, leaving 
it on Ave or six hours. Try her for a day or two, and if she does not 
improve, repeat each time, keeping it on an hour or two longer until 
cured. If you leave this rig on, or keep the tail up 10 or 12 hours the 
first time, as some theories recommend, the hair will fall out. If the 
rings pull out, wind the knots around with string and tie. If the hair 
is crinkled when you take the tail down, soak it in water for a few 
moments and wash out, and it straightens. To entirely cure the con- 
firmed switcher will take some time. 



The Fretter. 

This horse is nervous and high-metaled ; be patient, mild and per- 
severing with him. He will constantly dance or prance, with ap- 
parently nothing to cause his uneasiness. He will try the patience of 
the most competent with the rein. If very much afraid of cars, edu- 
cate him as horse afraid of cars as herein described. Now, after you 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



59 



get up a moderate amount of "give to the bit," hitch him to break- 
salky with blind or open bridle and Edwards' bit adjusted as you think 
will best suit him. Do not check him high ; pass the lines back over 
the seat ; take hold of lines near the head, and walk along by his 
near shoulder, and when he begins to fret, set back on bit and say 
"steady 1 ' he will soon walk. Now gradually work away from his 
head, keeping lines in hand, and walk behind sulky. Soon you may 
get on, and stop his fretting by repeating this. Be sure to steady him 
with the word, and you can in most cases break it up. Do not hold 
him too hard, and when you start out, if he feels well, let him trot a 
good gait for a while, then steady him as before, and in most cases the 
habit can be broken up all right. 



The Colt or Horse Bad to Bridle. 

Place upon him good stout girth and Edwards' bridle, tie a ring on 
each side, to the girth, firmly, place a pair of single lines in bit-rings, 
and run back through rings on each side, as seen in illustration No. 34. 
(If your horse is tender bitted, buckle the lines in halter rings.) 




Illustration No. 34. 



If afraid of his ears and top of head, you can bridle him by tie- 
Inghim by the neck. Place bit in his mouth, unbuckle bridle at near 
side, carry it up over ears, down on head, and buckle. If afraid of 



EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



mouth, place crown-piece over the ears, then unbuckle at bit, place bit 
in mouth, and buckle. Now proceed to draw down his head by pull- 
ing moderately upon reins, as seen in illustration No. 34, slacking up 
occasionally ; pet and caress him every time he offers to put his head 
down, and this will effect a cure. Only when he is very bad, take 
bridie without linos and back him into stall narrow enough so he can- 
not turn around. (This horse should have had lessons in following 
under the whip, as explained in following under whip hereinafter de- 
scribed.) Now take the bridle in one hand and whip in the other, and 
tell him to come here, and as he comes in your direction, step up and 
caress. If he refuses to let you touch his head, touch him sharply 
with the whip around his front ankles and tell him to come here (if he 
is very high-headed, and you are not very tall, place a box in front of 
stall to stand upon), and he will soon learn to come up and have the 
bridle on. Every time he comes up and takes the bridle, caress and 
feed, and he will soon learn that it is best for him to take the bridle. 
The lesson as shown in illustration No. 34 is effectual in all cases only 
where the horse is mature and inclined to be vicious. I have taught 
many horses that were very bad in this latter way, to walk up and take 
the bridle, and you can do the same if you follow these few instruc- 
tions. Never strike him upon the head or ears. It is an excellent plan 
to give this horse lessons in "taking things, 1 '' as given in following 
pages of this book for a horse to take things and pick up things. After 
you teach him to take one thing, he will take another, and soon will 
put his head down and take the bit and bridle by lightly pricking him 
just back of the elbow joint and commanding him to take the bits. 
{A word to the wise.) 

Newark, New York, October 25, 1889. 
Prof. C. L. Edwards handled a mare for us that had been handled by profes- 
sional horsemen who failed in training her to take the bridle. Mr. Edwards han- 
dled her one day, and she took the bridle in her mouth and carried it, also the 
whip ; and she would get down upon her knees and take the bridle. 

T. Whittleton & Son, Prop'rs Newark Hotel. 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 61 



To Teach Colt or Mustang to Ride. 

First give him checking lessons, as shown in illustration No, 35. 




Illustbation No. 35, 



This is done to let him know you can get his head up. He will, if 
a mustang or an unbroken colt, need to be put through the reining les- 
son, as shown in illustration No, 36. 



62 



EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 




tLLUSTRATlON No. 36, 



Rein him thoroughly for two or three days and then lead him into 
a large box-stall ; place a box on near side of him and step upon it, 
keeping hold of lines ; gradually work the box up to him and step! 
upon it, and pat him on the back ; then lay your right arm ovei his 
back, lean against him, and you can soon take position as shown in 
illustration No. 37. 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



63 




Illustration No. 37. 



Move him a few steps, then stop, caress, and move him again l , he 
Will soon walk around stall all right, In most eases, and with our na- 
tive horses, this is all that is required, and by repeating, you can soon 
ride your colt out into the yard, and then into the road, all right. If 
he is an unruly mustang and liable to pitch and buck, pass a small rope 
through ring or over draw-check, in place of leather check on crown- 
piece, as shown in bridle illustration, then down and through off lever 
on bit, from outside, then across nose through near lever, from inside, 
and back through ring on crown-piece, then through check-hook, or to 
saddle, and tie to the other end of cord for check. If this does not 
hold his head up, place upon him wooden fork, as shown in illustration 
No. 38. 



EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 




Illustration No. 3S. 
[In placing upon harness, tie to collar at breast.] 

Tie or strap this wooden fork to the bit-rings, draw it up so it will 
stay each side of his chin, and it should be wound »vith cloth in fork to 
make it soft ; then strap the side-pieces (A), as shown in illustration, to 
the fork (B), and the other ends fasten to saddle-girt, and he cannot 
buck or pitch ; it is impossible, for every time he comes down, this will 
-catch him and he will soon find out he cannot pitch. Have the stick 
long enough so it will hold his head a little higher than his back. This 
wooden fork or crotch may be obtained in any piece of woods or un- 
dergrowth, and will be found a great help in keeping a mustang from 
pitching, or any horse inclined that way. I have used this method on 
mustangs and rode them all right in a few days. In the west, they ride 
them "right from the word go," as they call it. This, of course, is 
done by men who understand it, and don't care much for their antics, 
etc. It is done by riding the wirey animal until he is educated to ride. 
Of course in driving cattle, this is the only resort, as the horses used 
are wild, and when one becomes tired, a wild one is caught and rode 
in its place. If the rider is thrown, the broncho or mustang knows it 
just as well as a native horse, and will try the harder next time. Any 
northern gentleman that has never ridden a mustang, and thinks 
horse on earth can throw him, will have a good chance to exercise hi& 
dexterity if he will mount a bucking mustang. I once heard a Texan 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



65 



say he had been thrown only once, and then he went up so high he 
was three days on his atrial voyage ; but good luck seemed to await 
him, for when he came down, he struck fair and square in the saddle 
on the same mustang he rode three days previous. 



To Get a Horse Up. 



If a horse should throw himself or lie down, and refuse to get up, 
apply the smothering nose-piece, as shown in illustration No. 39, pull 
upon strap running to nose-piece, and he will get up, as he cannot 
breathe unless he does. Every time he lies down, shut his nose and 
mouth up tight, and he will get up ; then immediately slack up and he 
can breathe. This is good for steers, mules and horses alike, and will 
never fail, or injure the animal in the least. 




Illustration No. 



If he should take advantage of you and jerk and his head and 
then catch his breath, you can get the best of him by running the 
smothering-strap or rope around pole, tree, or fence post, as seen in 
illustration No. 39. I handled a horse once that would "do this": he 



66 



EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



would lie down, and when I held the smothering-strap, he would jerk 
his head and catch his breath, and then refuse to get up. I poured 
water in this horse's nose, but he would swallow it as fast as I could 
pour it in. I attached s, rope long enough to reach the fenee and held 
all the slack, when he proceeded to get up immediately, and never 
tried to lie down after that. If there is no fence or tree near, drive a 
small stake in the ground and wind the rope around this. Of course 
this measure would only have to be taken in the most obstinate cases. 
As I have said before, it is simple ; but I defy any man to bring a bet- 
ter method for the cure of this or any habit where the animal gets in a 
sulk. Some say, wait tilWhe gets over the sulk. But I have seen the 
time when I might have done this, and starved to death waiting — and 
then he would not move or get up. You will find it, if properly ap- 
plied, to be the greatest help that could be thought of, when its use is 
rrequired ; you never will fail, and will be pleased to see the willing- 
ness of the sullen and obstinate animal to obey after its use. Like 
the other controlling powers, this should be accompanied with kind- 
ness and caressing after submission. Never burn the horse or pour 
water in his nose, as it is inhuman, abusive and dangerous. Keep 
cool, and when your horse throws himself, stop his breath and he will 
get up, if it is possible for him to do so. A horse cannot get up if he 
is checked up, or his feet fast, or his back down hill or in a hollow. 




PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



6? 



Lopping Out the Tongue. 

For this I claim the credit, as I think I can stop any horse from 
lopping out the tongue, if I can handle him and apply the method 
properly. Place upon the horse the Edwards bit, as shown in illustra- 
tion No. 40. x 




Illustration No. 40. 

[Showing the hollow pipe to be placed upon the joint bit when taken apart to make a 
straight pipe bit for tender-bitted horses. Unscrew the joint bit at the center and drop 
one end into the straight bit, then the other end, and you can see to adjust by the slots or 
openings in the straight bit ; or, the ring may be cut at the end of a common joint bit and 
taken out, and by using a piece of small gas-pipe and thick leather washers, make a bit 
like the one above by replacing the ring after placing the pipe upon the lit.] 



Remove the extension center-piece, if on the bit, and place 
upon the bit the pipe-bit, then take a piece of dental rubber or 
rubber cloth of good quality (clear, pure gum) that will stretch well, 
cut a small hole in the center of it, pleat the ends so they will be 
strong, run a rubber cord through these pleated ends with a needle- 
now run these rubber cords through the holes or slots in pipe-bit 
double, and out of the ends each way, and tie to the bit ring or bit ; 
place the bit in the horse's mouth, draw this rubber cloth out, put the 
thumb and forefinger of the left hand through the incision, and then 
with the right hand take the tongue out under the bit and draw it 
through the hole made in the rubber cloth, and let his tongue and the 
rubber slide back in his mouth ; he may possibly put his tongue out, 
but the constant draw of the rubber upon it will soon take it back in 
his mouth again, and the result will be that he will carry his tongue in 
his mouth. The rubber will expand every time the muscles of the- 
tongue enlarges it, and therefore will not interfere with the circulation 



68 EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



of the blood. This piece of rubber cloth should be just a little longer 
than the tongue is wide and about H inches wide, and care should be 
taken that the center is in the center of his mouth, so it will not draw 
his tongue to one side. It will not interfere with his drinking, and if 
not too wide, will not keep him from eating. Of course the size must 
be governed by the quality of the rubber and size of the horse's 
tongue. If the rubber is first-class, it can be quite small and still hold ; 
the strain is not very great, and he cannot get it between his teeth, nor 
chew the cord off, as it is inside the pipe-bit. Some might prefer all 
rubber cord, but I like the rubber cloth best, as it has always done the 
work well forme. (Some may say, ''it is too much bother," etc. I 
seldom pay any attention to remarks of this kind, and it will be found 
characteristic of most horsemen not to waste time talking with a fault- 
finder. If the trainer guarantees satisfaction and does not deceive, the 
owner is secured ; and you should hesitate before criticising too close- 
ly. Those who make such remarks are generally too indolent to ac- 
complish anything by their own efforts, and embrace every opportunity 
to find fault with those who are successful and energetic.) 

If the horse is a tough-bitted fellow, you can tie the rubber cord 
to the bit-rings after passing through holes at joint in center, and leave 
extension center piece and side-levers on. The sale of many a good 
horse has been lost simply because he lopped out his tongue. You may 
make any change in this arrangement you wish, but do not use any- 
thing except rubber about the tongue, as it will stop the circulation 
and the result would be bad. 



To Train the Horse that Rides or 
Leans on the Tongue. 

This is a very bad habit, and the horse that does this, I have no 
faith to believe, can be trained well in any other way than with break 
sulky, made as described in former pages. Now make a long evener or 
double tree and bolt to break-sulky thills, with single tree fastened to 
some part, and hitch the leaner to break-sulky, with a good stout 
double harness on and single lines; then take horse No. 2 and place 
by side, with double or cross lines on; attach the same to bits, as 
though you had no single lines on the leaner, place all the lines back 
across the sulky seat, hitch the gentle horse to the long evener, which 
should be long enough to place them far enough apart so the leaner 
cannot crowd against horse No. 2 (you may place a horse each side if 
you wish); get on the break sulky, take the double lines in hand and 
sit on the single lines; start them up, and the leaner or tongue-rider 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 69 

will find no horse to lean against or tongue to ride; as they ride on the 
tongue or thill, they carry their own weight, and if they go down they 
•cannot break the thills, if they are made strong enough. Correct him 
with the single lines as he attempts to lean on the thills. Drive in this 
way until they will drive well, then place the gentle horse on the other 
side and drive the same, turning around both ways slowly, stopping 
ofren; caress and repeat; and there is no tongue-rider that will not give 
up the habit in a few days; at least, I have never found one I could 
not train in this way. Hitch and drive this way until he diives well, 
(He should, however, have been driven enough single previous to this 
to make a good reiner of him whiie hitched to a break-sulky; then 
hitch them to a team wagon, and if he tries it again, place him right 
back in the break-sulky, give him a thorough lesson, and then if you 
hitch to team wagon you will see, if the training has been thorough, 
that the leaner or tongue-rider has given up the old habit and drives 
all right.) 



Tossing the Head, 



Some horses have a very unpleasant notion of throwing the Head 
np, and will at times raise up off the ground with one front foot, then 
go a little ways and do the same over again. Some may thiuk this is a 
nice thing for a horse to do, but a good horseman will not pay as much 
for a horse that does this as he would if he did not. To break up this 
habit, you ma use Edwards 1 bridle once or twice, if he is hard on the 
rein, and then place harness upon him and hitch to some light vehicle, 
if he is well trained; now take a small strap (a light name strap is 
good), pass it through between billets on lower end of check pieces 
where they buckle into the bit, over the nose and buckle under the 
chin; now fasten a strap to this and tie to belly-band. This is a stand- 
ing halter martingale, and when he tries to throw up his head and raise 
up off the ground, he is caught by the nose by this strap, and soon 
learns that he cannot do it. I have tried this and it will work every 
time on a horse under saddle or hitched to carriage, where a standing 
martingale hitched to a bit would, if his mouth were tender, make him 
jerk his head, and then he would keep on jerking and appear very 
awkward. He should be checked up moderately, then watch him, and 
as he goes t j toss the head, tap him with the whip and give a light pull 
to one side; this will have a good effect. This habit is formed, in many 
cases, by too high checking and tiresome drives. 



70 EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



To Make Team Pull Even upon the 
Reins. 

If you have a horse that will do it all, and one that is willing he 
should, and inclined that way strongly; that is, one that has a dispo- 
sition exactly opposite from the other, they cannot be driven evenly 
and nicely. If you can do this, you can outdo rne. Never try it, for 
it cannot be done. But I have seen many teams that were quite well 
matched and looked a great deal alike, but they seemed to have been 
trained by different methods. One of them will take the bit and seem 
nervous, and act as though he had no confidence in the driver; jump 
and act as if something was about to harm him. The other one has 
been differently trained, and is not on the watch for something to hurt 
him, but is a clever appearing horse. To make such a pair work up to- 
gether and drive nicely, take the most nervous and poorly trained one 
into the training yard and handle with Edwards' bridle a few times, as 
shown in illustration No. 41. 




Illustration No. 41. 

Turn him to right and left, pulling back strongly, to let him know 
he must submit readily to the bit; train him with whip, as under the 
lesson, "Afraid of Whip, Robe," etc., to teach him he is not to be 
hurt. Now place upon him bridle and harness, and take position as 
seen in illustration No. 42. 



PROGREf SITE HORSEMANSHIP. 



71 




JLUJSTRATION NO. 42. 



Switch the whip and hold him until he shows no fear 1 , occasionally ca- 
ress him, and he will soon stand at the switch of the whip. Now take 
the other one on barn floor or in yard, and place upon him the check- 
ing reins, as shown in illustration No. 43. 



7 2 



KD WARDS PRACTICAL 




ILLUSTRATION NO. 43. 



Kow chirrup, switch the whip, and if.' he does not start, step up to him 
and give him the whip around his hind legs; if he jumps at your com- 
ing, plaew blind bridle and lines upon him, switch the whip-, and use if 
upon him sharply until he will move live'y when told (jr at switch of 
whip. This will make him drive up on bit, and by placing Edwards' 
bit on him and'adjusting the pipe-bit, he will drive up on ft well. On 
the other one, use the bit with side-levers and slide-loop in a position 
that will hold him pleasantly, and by a few lessons, this team will be 
wonderfully improved, and you can sell them for a much better price 
than before. 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



73 



The Fence Jumper. 



One of the first things to do is to make a good substantial fence. 
Some horse will even jump over this. To prevent this, you must hav« 
two good-fitting straps made, lined with sheepskin, with short wool on 
to keep from chafing legs. Let the end of the lining, which should be 
sewed on thin leather, lap by, so the buckle will not chafe the leg. 
Buckle one around the off hind leg above gambrel joint; have a ring, 
O or D, put in between the lining and strap, a little back of buckle. 
Now take the other strap made like this one, only a little smaller, and 
buckle around the near front leg, above the knee; take a good soft- 
paded girth and tie a ring (or small pulley) under the horse, pass a 
strap or small sized rope through this, and buckle or tie to the ring in 
strap on eaeh leg. See Illustration No. 44. 




Illustration No. 44. 

"Note — Always use this leg harness in case you have no stout, break sulky for 
any horse that is inclined to kick single or double. Placing it upon the hind leg 
that comes inside or next to the tongue when hitched double, placing one on 
each leg when hitching single. 

This appliance can be used for keeping colts from kicking. Whil« 
trotting, they can trot just as fast with it as without it, but cannot run. 
The strap must be adjusted so that it is not too loose or too tight, 
as you may determine by careful observation. No poke to wear off 
the main or injure the neck; no clog to hurt his legs; no fetters to 



74 EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



hold him so he cannot get out of the way if he is mastered by other 
horses; no blindfold to impair his sight and make him stumble and 
fall down; no brads to cut his throat; no barb- wire fence to mangle 
and ruin him. You will find this to be second to no other device to 
stop a jumper. 

I have heard of punching holes in the back side of the ears, and tieing them 
back by passing a soft string through the holes after they were healed up. This 
will stop them, as no horse will jump unless he can throw his ears forward, to see 
where he is going. This, I think, would be better for sheep or cattle. I have 
tried it on jumping sheep, and it worked to perfection. Tie. the ears back to- 
gether. On a cow, tie the ears to the opposite horn. 



For Changing the Way of Going. 

You may use another set of straps like those in Illustration No. 44, 
place them upon the other two legs the same, and your horse cannot 
kick when hitched to a light vehicle. He can trot, but cannot break 
or run. Then by placing them upon him straight (as it were) — not to 
cross them, but pass them direct from the near hind leg to the near 
front leg (see dotted lines in Illustration No. 44), and from the off hind 
leg to the off front leg, you can make your horse pace. Pass a strap 
over his back, with two rings upon it to keep the leg harness up; that 
is, place two rings on stout surcingle and buckle around horse midway 
between back pad and crupper, and pass straps running from hind leg 
to front leg through these rings, one each side respectively. He cannot 
kick. Much care must at this time be taken not to have these strap* 
too loose or too tight. Adjust carefully, so as to allow the horse to go 
the gait you wish to teach him, easily; or, in other words, not to 
shorten his stride. In speeding, rubber may be used in place of rope. 



Stallion Bad to Manage and Control 
While Using to Cover. 

Many owners of stallions lose money by not having their stallion» 
properly educated and trained to come out and act pleasant and man- 
ageable. Men are afraid to take a mare to this horse because he is so 
unmanageable. This is no wonder; for he is dangerous, and in many 
cases, limbs have been broken and men killed by a vicious stallion. I 
had a man once dare me to go in the stall with a vicious stallion. I 
*aid how do you handle him? He replied, we don't handle him. I 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



75 



promised to handle this horse, and proceded as follows : I provided a 
good rope about 30 feet long, and a very light ten-foot pole. I knew 
by what I had seen that this stallion was treacherous and ugly (he 
had ran away, would kick, bite, etc.,) and this pole and rope would 
be neened to halter him. Drive two nails into the end of this pole, 
just far enough apart to lay the rope between, let six feet of the rope 
hang down from the end of the pole, with a loop at the end ; then tie 
the rope to the pole, about four feet fjrom the end, with a small string ; 
then pass the free end of the rope through the loop on the other end, 
and draw it up, and it will form a snare (as it were,) and then you can 
reach out with the pole while at a safe distance and get the snare over 
his head. A knot can be tied in the rope above the loop, so it cannot 
slip up and choke him. This I did to get him fast; then pull upon th« 
pole and rope, and the rope slips up around his neck and he is haltered 
around the neck. I then proceeded to tie him short, place bridle upon 
him and handle as follows: With the leading purchase as shown in 
Illustration, No. 45. (You can halter a wild mustang or colt this way 
easily after you gfit him into an enclosure.) 




Illustration No. 45. 



\ worked him to the right and left thoroughly, left him tied and fed 
him and watered him like any horse, I gave him three lessons of 30 



76 EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



minutes each as shown in Illustration No. 45, and then let him rest, 
and placed upon him the harness and lines as seen in Illustration No. 
46. 




Illustration No. 46. 



I used in this way the same three times, gave him an idea he must 
keep off from me, and keep his head up and his heels down. I took 
particular pains to show him I was a friend when he obeyed. I then 
handled his feet as described in Illustrations Nos. 26 and 27, and I was 
ready to place upon him harness and lines as 6hown in Illustration 
No. 47. 




ILLCSTBATION NO. 47. 

Drive him around and set back on lines, and say "whoa," and he- 
will stop; then if he refuse to go, draw up the line, stand a little to one 
tide and in front, and throw the line sharply forward, and he will gen- 
erally start ; if he does not, place upon him smothering nose-piece, as 
directed for balker, and he will start; then take positiou as shown in 
Illustration No. 48. 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



77 




Illustration No. 48. 

Switch the whip, start him up and catch him around pole and hold 
him. Every time you set back on the lines, say "w;7ioa," and if he 
don't stop, takt the advantage by pulling your lines around the center 
pole, until he will mind the word ''w>7ioa," well; then you may hitch 
him to brake sulky, as shown in Illustration No. 49. 




Illustration No. 49. 

Drive him about on the sulky, using him much the same as colt, 
only never allow yourself to get out of place; in other words, don't 
trust him at all. I have known stallions at the age of 12 or 14 to kill 
men and horses by kicking, that had always been handled and shown 
no signs of kicking. After he will drive well, you may drive to light 
wagon. He is now worth much more than before, being educated, 
and is not hurt in the least. Any stallion will do a better business, 
being trained to. drive; and if very valuable, so much the more 
need of being trained. If you paid $1,000 for a horse, you should train 
him better than one that only cost you $100. 



78 EDWAKDS' PRACTICAL 



You may now place upon him bridle and lines, as they should be 
used to cover in first lessons, as seen in Illustration No. 50. 




Illustration No. 50. 

If he gets in a hurry, you can easily set him back by pulling upon 
both lines. If he tries to rear, you can soon convince him he is under 
your control by giving strong pulls upon the near rein. You will never 
have any trouble in training your stallion, no matter how vicious and 
confirmed he may be in his habits, if you follow these instructions. 



To Break Up the Habit of a Stallion 

Whinnering, or a Jack Braying, 

While on the Road. 

Place upon him smothering nose-piece, and attach a cord or line to 
rings on strap that passes over nose-piece, and as he makes an attempt 
to whinner or bray, draw the smothering strap tight. This will cause 
a very unpleasant sensation in his nostrils and head and break up the 
habit in a short time. As you draw upon the cord or line that worki 
the smothering nose-piece, tap him with the whip and say "I, I," or 
"stop," and he will stop; and it will be much pleasanter to drive him 
upon the road for pleasure or business. While the business of attend- 
ing to a stallion is considered by some as not being honorable, allow 
me to point out the fact that there is no man that can choose a more 
honorable way of employing his time than improving and perfecting a 
race of animals so useful and valuable as The Horse. 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 79 

To Break Colt From Sucking the Tongue. 

This habit is caused (some say) by weaning the colt at the wrong 
time. I have, however, known old horses to suck the tongue, and if 
allowed to continue, they will lose flesh and will not thrive on the same 
amount of food that they would if they did not have the habit. To 
cure the colt or horse of this habit, place the pipe-bit upon the main 
bit and attach a short piece of light chain to the holes in bottom of 
bit, by means of a wire or string, and then place it in his mouth. He 
will be trying to remove the chain with his tongue, and if he tries to 
suck upon it, (as it were), the hollow bit will allow air to pass into the 
mouth, and as he can not form an air-tight vacuum with his mouth, 
he can not suck the tongue and will give h up, after wearing the bit a 
few times, even if there is no chain attached. 



Speeding Young Colts. 

It seems to some observers, and is said to be by some horsemen 
wrong, to tror, or speed the yearling or two-year-old, and is said by 
some to have a strong tendency to produce weaklings, unsound and 
unthrifty offsprings from colts so trotted or trained to speed while so 
young. Yet it should be taken into consideration, that a thrifty colt 
will of his own accord at times go through the most violent exercise, 
running at the top of his speed around the field again and again. 
Now, if this same colt should trot a quarter by the side of another horse, 
or alone, how can it hurt him. It will not, if good judgment and care 
are taken ; and the colt may be ready to command a fancy price, while 
yet quite young, for the speed he shows as is the case with H. M. Littel, 
Esq., of Macedon, N. ¥., Dr. Day, of Waterloo, N. Y., and others, some 
of their colts showing such remarkable speed that they were hold for 
figures up in the thousands at one year old. 



To Keep Horse from Getting Cast in 
Stall Without Tieing His Head up. 

Place upon him well paded leather girth, and get two wooden bowls, 
turned from soft, light wood (basswood or eottonwood is go'/d, which 
should be dry) ; they should be about 10 inches across the large 6ide in 
width, and then round down egg-shape to about seven inches in length. 
Strap these to the girth with straps made from good leather; by mak- 
ing two small mortices in each side of each bowl, and four holes 
through each side of girt; the upper holes should be made a little be- 
low where the line terret is fastened on, and the others where the lower 
edge of the bowl comes. Now pass the straps through the mortices in 



*0 



EDWARDS PRACTICAL 



the bowls and then through the girt and then out through the girt at d 
bowl, and buckle. The bowls can be turned and covered with leather 
and will be very light, and can be put on with girt in the winter to 
keep blanket on, and in summer can be used without any blanket. 
This will keep a horse from rolling, as the bowl will strike the floor or 
wall and he can not roll; even if in a box stall he can not roll upon his 
back, or get cast, but can lay down on his side with his head at ease 
or tied in any way you wish. The bowls can be made larger or small- 
er, as you like; but for ordinary cases, the ones described will do. If 
very bad, you can lower the bowls on his sides a little, and have them 
a. little larger. A small-sized butter bowl, which can be obtained at 
any hardware store, will do, but the ones mentioned above are better. 
To make this plain to you, 1 will have it engraved. See Illustration 
No. 51. 




Illustration No. 51. 

The old way of tieing up a horse's head, from the crown-piece of the 
halter, or from each side, had a tendency to chafe the face, and while 
lieing down, the throat-latch would cnt his throat, and in many cases 
did not prove effectual unless the horse was tied so he could not lie 
down naturally. With this appliance he can lie down flat upon his 
side and deep, but can not roll upon his back. It is best to bed this 
horse with sawdust or shavings. Turn him out every day where he 
ean roll, and groom at night, and he will not be as apt to try and roll 
in the night. As the rolling is sometimes caused by itching or irritation 
of the skin. (Give cleansing powders.) (See recipes.) 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



81 



The Rearing Horse. 

The surest and best way to stop this is to hitch him to something he 
can not rear with. This is the brake sulky with the rearing preventive 
on back end of sulky. The thills are straight, with no joints, and by 
attaching a good stout stick to the hind end, as the front end comes 
up, the hind end goes down, and if this stick is there, it will strike the 
ground and he can go up no farther. If he is an old chronic rearer, 
he should be thoroughly bridle and rein handled first, as in lessons for 
colt; then hitch to sulky, as seen in Illustration No. 52. 




Illustration No. 52. 



Some horses will not rear only when hitched to some kind of vehicle, 
then they will try and see how high and straight they can stand up. 
Now start him up and stop him, or drive him to field track or road, or 
wherever he tries to rear, and stop him, and when he tries to rear, he 
will find out the rearing cannot be done. He may hop up a little, and 
while he is trying to do this, throw his head to one side with bit, and 
touch him with whip, and say "whoa," and if he has had the other 
lessons given properly, he will stand. Tie the rearing preventive with 
some cord, or fasten it on with a clevy, so it cannot swing out of place, 
and you will never fail to break any horse t,o stop rearing and cause 
him to stand still. If in the winter season, and there is plenty of snow 
on the ground, you can teach him hitched to breaking sleigh, with 
trip lines on front feet, as described for desperate runaway, and every 
time he goes up on his hind feet, pull on trip-lines, which will bring 
him down with his nose in the snow, and he will soon stop it. Do not 
pull hard back on the bit on a rearing horse, as it is liable to pull him 
over backwards. Either of the ways I have described will do the 
work, but I prefer the former, of sulky with preventive on. The 
breaking sleigh should be made as seen in Illustration No. 53. 



82 



EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 




Illustration No. 53. 
To construct this sleigh, take any hind bob or short sleigh (the short- 
er the better,) and make thills similar to sulky thills, only shorter; 
some old wagon-tire will do for the crooks. Bolt this on and have two 
eyelets made to hold them to roller; take 1 and £ inch plank for cross- 
bar (good timber,) and let two of the bolts on each side that hold thill- 
irons pass through it; get a good strong dry-goods box, the proper 
size, like the one shown in Illustration No. 53, and fasten to the bob 
or sleigh, and you have a breaking sleigh that no horse can break. It 
should not be over three feet long, as it will turn much easier. A 
great many men think when in the winter there is plenty of snow, they 
can break their colts hitched with an old horse. Now suppose these 
men lived wheie there was no snow-fall, Or did not have an old horse, 
they would have to change localities, buy or borrow an old horse, etc. 
More colts are spoiled by being driven with old horses than are ever 
benefitted; he is not thoronghly broken until he will drive well single, 
and here is where most colts have their first trouble, and if your colt is 
never trained single, do not blame him when he turns around, tips you 
over, or for any other unruly action. He is not to blame. 



To 



Stop a Horse from Biting or Tear- 
ing Blanket, Cribing, or Biting 
While Grooming 

Place upon the horse a good five-ring halter, with rings on check 
straps — that is, a halter that has rings on each side of check; now take 
two pieces of white pine or basswood board, about four inches wide, ^ 
inch thick and one foot long, make four holes about two inches from 
one end and two inches apart, round the corners, fasten a pie"ce of 
leather, (a boot-leg is j^ood) across and to the underside of the two 
pieces of boards with leather string; place it upon horse with leather 
under chin, and tie boards to rings on halter and above rings with 
good strings; the leather should not run up far enough to interfere 
with chin-piece on halter, which chin piece should not be very loose. 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 83 

If this is properly made and adjusted, there is no horse that it will not 
stop of the habits which it is intended for.' As he turns his head 
around, the side-pieces stop him from biting his sides, and the leather 
on the bottom stops him from reaching his breast, and they project so 
he cannot get hold of anything to crib and he cannot bite while being 
groomed, yet he can eat hay and drink, and only has to be removed 
while eating grain. You can have the side-pieces covered with leather 
if you wish. (I have heard of tying a block of wood in a horse's 
mouth. This is simply barbarous, as it is a constant punishment; he 
cannot eat or drink, and is tortured constantly.) If a horse could 
talk, you can imagine what he would say in regard to this block of 
wood. I think he would say ("it is infernal.") 



Kicking or Pawing in Stall. 

This can be stopped by having a good-fitting strap made, with a 
piece of stout rubber tape in the middle, so it will stretch. If necessary, 
you can use the rubber tape double, to make it stout enough. Now 
fasten to this a ring, and to the ring a piece of light trace-chain about 
one foot long. For kicking, buckle around hind leg above hock joint. 
For pawing, buckle around front leg above knee. This will not chafe 
the leg, as the rubber will stretch, and when he tries to paw or kick 
the chain will strike his legs and he will not try it many times. Let 
him get accustomed to it before you leave him, and by buckling it 
above the knee, he will not step on it. Let the chain be on the inside 
of the leg. 



Bits-^The Use of." 



There have been many bits invented, the number reaching far into 
the thousands, every one thinking he has the best. I do not claim my 
bit the best but I am willing to forfeit $100 that there is not another 
bit in the world, at the present time, that will compare with it for 
practical use or for horses of different dispositions and bit-taking, and 
for training, speeding, and all places where a bit is needed. What you 
have wanted is a bit for all kinds of horses and mouths. Here it is. 
Buy it, and try it. 

While upon this subject, I would say that if you have a runaway or 
a kicker, do not think that if you buy one of these bits, take it home 
and place it upon your horse and hitch him to carriage, that he will 
behave and not try to run or kick. The man that says he has a bit 
that gains instant control and removes all fear, is a humbug, while 
you get control quickly and with less irritation with this bit than with 



84 EDWAKDS' PRACTICAL 

others. I know that the rogue or viscious horse must have repeated 
lessons of training and get up a fear of the bit, so he dare not run or 
kick when you move the bit in his mouth or pull upon it. Get a good 
''steady'''' and a "dead certain'''' "wrioa" on him before you try to drive 
him, and keep the bit adjusted properly, and you can menage him. If 
properly adjusted it will never cut the mouth inside or outside, if the 
teeth are floated and used with levers. And it is placed upon the 
market with an. assurance of being second to none. 



To Teach a Horse to Stand Upon Street 
Without Being Tied, 

Hitch him to sulky, buckle lines together (with blind bridle,) 
tie a long cord to lines so it will pull evenly upon them both, get out 
of sight, and if he starts, pull hard, then slack; say not a word; if he 
starts again, pull harder and show him something has got him. After 
a few lessons, he will stand and not offer to stir. Do not feed him ap- 
ples or other things, as a passer by might be eating an apple and he 
would start after him to get the apple. He must be taught only as 
above, to be reliable, and then it is not entirely safe with the majority 
of horses. 



To Get Up to Horse Bad to Catch in 
Pasture. 

Place upon the horse a good five-ring halter, tie a long cord to it — 
the longer the better, say 1000 feet — take a few hairs of the main, rub 
on some shoemaker's wax, tie a knot in this and divide it above the 
knot and pass the cord through and back to the tail, and fix it the 
same here by taking a few hairs about six inches from the roots of the 
tail, pass the cord through and let it drag. This is done to keep the 
horse from stepping on the cord, or getting wound up in it If he has 
no main or tail, you can place upon him well-paded girt and crupper, 
and tie a ring to the crupper and girt, and run the cord through these 
and tie to halter or bridle. Take a dish of oats, go to the pasture lot 
and proceed to get up to your horse. If he is very bad, it would be 
well to have bridle on him for a few days Get hold of the cord, 
ehake the dish of oats, and keep advancing. He will see you have al- 
ready caught him, and will come up to you, and after a few days he 
can be caught without the cord on, if you feed him the oats every 
time you catch him. If he should start off when you pick up the cord, 
give him light pull to let him know you have got him. 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 85 

Educating the Horse for Pleasure Driv- 
ing. . 

There are a great many ways to teach a horse the same thing. It is 
supposed by many that there are but few horses that can be educate ! 
to perform tricks and drive without reins. Any horse of ordinary in- 
telligence can in time be taught all this, if he gets the proper idea of 
what is wanted of him, applied according to the laws of his nature. 
But I am aware that there are many men, after receiving the best in- 
structions any one could give, could not become successful trainers. 
Such men make the profession like a setting hen without eggs (bring 
forth nothing.) The rules which are laid down in this book will often 
be deviated from without having any knowledge of it myself. From 
not understanding the meaning:, or carelessly studying the instructions, 
you will not obtain the desired result, and blame me for it. Some 
man may have a horse with blind staggers, and if he finds no remedy 
in this book, he throws it aside and feels in his heart a desire for some- 
thing that cannot be obtained. 

The Pleasure Horse- 
in selecting a pleasure horse, get one (that "fills the bill.") He 
should have a mild, gentle disposition, (peaceable and quiet,) and bold, 
fine action, and intelligent. He will not deceive you after he is prop- 
erly educated, and will make a fine appearance when on exhibition. 
N. B. "In order to make the lessons I am about to give effectual, it will 
be necessary to give one or two each day in a continued number of days, 
to form, a perfect habit of obedience." Please remember this. 



The cut represented in engraving No. 54 is a bridle which is always 
to be used when the horse is through with the lessons laid down in 
former pages. 



KDWARDS' PRACTICAL 




Illustration No. 54. 
This bridle can be used as an open bridle, or by taking out the check 
pieces and placing in a pair of blinds (which will be necessary at times). 
You will then have a bridle at all times that will give you satisfaction, 
and be ornamental as well as useful. You may not notice that there 
are several light bulges or swells in an overdraw check, well down on 
the nose, so when the slide loop is pulled down over this, it will stay 
without being tied with a string, etc. 



Training to the Whip, or First Lesson to 

Make a Colt Follow at Snap of 

Finger, or Word "Here." 

This is a very important lesson and should be given in all cases 
where the colt or horse is to be made a trick horse. I often give this 
lesson in training as the very first lesson, as it educates them much 
more in the same amount of time than vou can teach them with any 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



87 



other practice, nature and disposition that will allow it, and trainer 
capable. 

Take the colt into a box stall of medium size, place upon him Ed- 
ward^ bridle and take position as in illustration No. 55. 




Illustration No. 55. 

Take a short whip, step up to his near side, take hold of the reins 
and pull slightly and at the same time cluck, and tap him over the 
hips. He very likely will take a step or two in your direction. Caress 
him and repeat. Soon commence to snap the finger, at the same time 
touch him with the whip, and he will follow readily. Now take a 
longer bow top whip, get a little ways off and snap the finger. If he 
comes, caress him and repeat. Every time he comes to you, caress him 
and let him stand ; do not drive him away. As you have taught him to 
come by the use of the whip, if you strike him to make him go away, 
you spoil it all. Now place light open bridle ai^d one leading rein upon 
him and practice in the same way. After two or three days' training 
in this way, you should turn him in small yard with good, high, tight 
fence, or on barn floor with plenty of straw and light. Let him walk 
around you untill he gets well acquainted with the place, then «om- 
mence by cracking your whip directly over his back. If you have 
never used a long lash, procure a good light one and practice with it 
until you can handle it well. 

Place your eye upon your colt, or horse, and keep it there, and as 
he takes a position with head partially towards you (see illustration 
No. 55!;, swing the long lash carefully around and give him a light 



88 



KDWARDS PRACTICAL 




Illustration No. 55 1-2. 



touch on the hind ankles. He will in most cases take a step or two 
in your direction (all this time keep one hand up or out straight, an I 
snap the finger or cluck). As he makes an attempt to come in youi' 
direction, advance carefully to him and caress him, then step back, 
and as he takes another favorable position, snap the finger, and if be 
does not come, touch him lightly with your agent, Mr. Persuader, and 
you will be well pleased with your success, as he will follow like a good 
fellow and try his beat to do each little thing you ask of him, like 
coming up and having the halter and bridle on, etc. # Thiscan be done 
without the bridle handling if you are patient and persevering. That 
is to turn your horse into an inclosure and proceed with the long lash. 
Whip as above mentioned, whether he has ever been haltered or not. 
Another way is : As your colt stands with his head from you, or 
heels towards you, tap him tightly around hind ankles with the lash, 
and as he turns, walk up and caress him. If he does not turn, stop a 
moment, walk up and caress him, then step back and pop the whip at 
his hind ankles untill he turns. Then go to him and caress him. He 
will soon learn to follow you about at the snap op the finger, you then 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 89 

have him under your control without any bridle on, and should be able 
to control him with bridle and whip both. While teaching your colt 
this, have him entirely alone. Allow no one to come in the training 
yard or barn, as it will draw the colt's attention and have a tendency 
to confuse him. Watch your colt closely, and at any time he shows 
signs of obedience, like tossing the head or throwing his ears ahead and 
looking at you. step up and caress him. If you should strike him at 
this point, it would be the worst thing you could do. I took a mus- 
tang and in a few minutes taught her to follow me out into the yard 
and road without anything upon her, after she had run away several 
times. 



Marion, N. Y. September 2d, 1888. 
| Mr. C . L . Edwards trained one eight- year-old kicking mustang for me, and I 
was surprised to see Mr. Edwards hitch and drive her to light wagon. She was 
very hard to back. Mr. Edwards made a good reiner and perfect backer of her 
and she gained in flesh all the time. Mabtin Landon. 



To Educate a Horse to Drive Without 
Reins. 

Take your horse in box stall about 14x14. Take a straight whip, (a 
whale bone whip with the top broken off is good,) and tie a lash about 
three inches long. Drive a small wire nail through where the lash is 
tied on, and one also through the butt end. Stand to one side and tap 
him lightly on the side a few times and if he does not put his head 
around toward the whip, touch him with the point of the nail in either 
end of the whip and he will turn his head that way; then step up and 
caress, and by a little practice he will soon turn around after you and 
the whip. Let him rest and next give him a short lesson upon the 
other side in the same way After he will turn readily in this way, which 
will take two or three days in most cases, you may take him in yard 
with lines and bridle on and get behind, a little to one side, and tap 
him the same as when first teaching. Work him in this way until he 
will turn readily to the right or left at the tap of the whip. If he 
should start to leave you, let him know you have got him with the 
reins. Now commence to teach him to start. Change this whip and 
take a good long whalebone one in i<s place , nine feet is not too long. 
Stand directly behind him and give the whip a little crack over him 
and touch his back and cluck, he will soon learn to start at the switch 
over his back. Stay behind him. Hold the whip directly over his 
back when you wish him to go straight ahead ; to stop him tap him 
lightly over the head between the ears and set back on the lines. Re- 
peat this and as you drive him along, tap him on one side and the 
other, always pulling that way on the rein, and quite strongly to let 



90 EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



him know he must go to the side where the whip touches him, and 
stop when it touches him over the head. When he will work nicely 
this way take off the lines and place upon him check rig as seen in 




Illustration No. 56. 

illustration No. 56. Take him on barn floor or where he cannot 
get away and drive him around, stopping often by the tap of the 
whip on the head. Turn him one way and the other by the tap of the 
whip on his sides. If he should refuse to stop at the tap of the whip 
on the head, tap him over the nose with it until he stops ; then caress 
him. After he will work well this way hitch him to vehicle with lines 
and open bridle (III. No. 56£) and commence by giving him the les- 
sons as at first. When he steps off to the right or left at the tap of the 
whip, take him into a field and practice him. If he should attempt to 
get away, strike him with the whip around the ears; and, if he runs, 
stop him with the whip if possible, if not, use the lines and, sharply 
at the same time, tap him with the whip over the head to let him know 
that by it and it alone he must be governed. Never take the lines off 
until he will turn very readily, and trot, run and stop at the tap of the 
whip. You may take the bridle off next and place a pair of lines upon 
him attached to his front ankles by two good fitting straps around his 
front fetlock joints, with rings on. Then buckle a good pair of lines 
to these, pass them over the girth and back to break-sulky, and take 
• him to a sandy place or in a plowed field where there will be no chance 
of hurting him. Now, start, stop and turn him. If he acts clever, 
caress him. He will act and feel uneasy without a bridle on, and you 
must use much patience and kindness. Have some oats and apples in 
your pocket and feed him occasionally — it will help very much te draw 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



91 




Illustration No. 561-2. 

his attention to you and have confidence in you. Hold the whip directly 
over his back. When you wish him to go straight ahead, tap him on 
the baek. Start him up, and if he attempts to get away, apply the 
whip sharply over the head and pull up one foot; if he does not stop, 
pull up the other foot and he will be obliged to stop. After a few les- 
sons you may remove one foot-strap and then the other, and he may 
be driven quite safely. After your horse stops and starts and turns 
readily, you may teach him to back, by placing the lines upon him 
and giving him light taps on the top of the head, at the same time 
pull upon the lines and say "back!" to give him an idea of what is 
wanted. Then repeat and tap over the head, and in a few lessons he 
will back when you tap him two or three times on top of the head. 

Much care must be taken in the education of the horse, not to hurt, 
or frighten him. To cause him not to jump if he be a little nervous, 
use the blind bridle for a few times, with lines on, so he cannot see the 
whip; then place the open bridle on and proceed. Always take the 
lines and bridle with you when educating a horse, and at any time, 
if needed, place them upon him. Keep on the safe side and you will 
make a success of it and soon drive your horse nicely without bridle or 



92 



EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



reins. You can educate this horse to go by the switch of the whip, by 
switching the whip on the same side after touching biin, to make him 
turn to right or left, and by switching the whip over his back to make 
him go ahead, etc. If you are a competent horseman and use patience 
and good judgment, you can drive as seen in illustration No. 57. 




PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 93 

To Drive by the Snap of the Finger, 

After your horse drives well by the switch of the whip, place Ed- 
ward's bridle and lines upon him in a roomy box stall, stand dirt ctly 
behind him, snap the finger on the near side, give him a light pull on 
that line and he will turn; caress, and repeat on the other side the 
same; then hitch to break-sulky, move to right hand side of seat and 
snap right finger and he will turn that way; left the same. Cluck and 
he will start, then when you wish him to stop, raise the hand straight 
in front of you, make a hissing noise between the teeth and set back 
lightly on the lines. When he stops, caress him. You should take the 
whip the first few times, sitting upon it with the top straight back of 
vehicle. To back him move the hand straight across in front of you, 
and give light pull upon lines and he will back all right, andby re- 
peating a sufficient number of times he will drive by the snap of the 
finger as well as any other way. 



To Drive by the Motion of the Hand. 

After he drives well by the snap of the finger, take same position, 
motion the left hand to near side, cluck, and he will go that way, re- 
peat on the other side the same; then raise the hand for him to stop 
directly in front of you and pull lightly upon the lines. Caress and 
repeat, using the right hand on off side and left on near side and right 
hand to stop him and move the right hand back and forth in front of 
you to make him back, and pull lightly upon the lines. You may take 
the whip with you the same as in driving by snap of finger, at first 
until he will drive all right without it. 

Note. Some may say that this cannot be done . I have a two-year-old colt 
that I have driven in this way many times and I shall drive the same, Providence 
permitting, m the future. 



To Educate a Horse to Run Loose, or Go 
Away and Come Back Without Any- 
thing Upon Him, and Turn Car- 
riage Around Without Driver. 

To do this you must know yourself pretty well, and be thorough and 
persevering in your undertakings. First teach him to follow under 
whip as described in first lesson (to follow under whip.) This is easily 
done, though bear in mind it must be thoroughly taught. Now place 



94 EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



upon him Edward's bridle with long cord attached. Take him out in 
to the field, or large yard is better. At first go ( n aLead of him fifteen 
or twenty feet and say, "come here," at the same time cracking the 
whip or snapping the finger. He may come, if not pull upon the rope, 
and when he gets to you feed him apples, sugar, etc., pet him and 
caress him and he will soon come to you at the crack of the whip or 
snap of the finger. "You can gradually work away from him and be- 
hind him and crack the whip and he will soon come to you at a dis- 
tance of one hundred feet at the crack of the whip, you now must 
teach him to go away. This can only be done by placing the cord up- 
on him through a ring fastened on the opposite side of yard from you, 
say "go on" to him and pull upon the cord, this will lead him away. 
Keep the whip still until he is a few feet away, then crack whip, and 
as he has been taught this he will come back, caress and repeat until he 
will go away at the word, and come back readily at the crack of the 
whip. Now place upon him girt and crupper with ring tied to each on 
his back, pass the cord through these and tie with bow knot at crup- 
per so it can be untied easily, (if at any time you wish to use it. Prac- 
tice him in this way for several days, then remove the bridle and use 
him in yard until he shows no sign of disobedience, then place a good 
strap around his off fore fetlock, lined with sheepskin with short wool 
upon it, so it will not chafe or hurt, take him out into the field or lane. 
let him start off or start him off and before he goes far say "whoa," if 
he does not stop pull up his foot and he will stop, say "come here" 
and lightly crack the whip. When he comes caress and feed hitu. 
Do not whip him if he does not come readily, if you do he will act all 
the worse next time. He wjll soon come and go from you with a 
string bridle, and soon without anything upon him. Always place the 
bridle and cord (or better long leather rein) on him when you first take 
him out and change from that to the f oot line until he is so thorougly 
educated that he will not try to go only as far as he is taught. Use 
the same length of cord or line every time and never let him get away. 
If he gets away a few times he will not forget it in weeks. If he should 
try to get away ou three legs attach a short line to the other foot and 
pass it through the ring on girth under him and fasten to the other line 
Have him in soft place as when he runs away bring his nose to the 
ground a few times, by taking both his front feet up, and he will not 
try to get away next time. When you take him on the street for the 
first few times do not ask him to do too much. It looks well enough 
to see him go away only twenty feet. Let him gei accustomed to the 
place by driving and stopping and turning in street hitched to vehicle. 
Keep a good lookout for your horse at all times and in case anything 
looks suspicious to you, stop your horse until the road is clear, or lead 
him by. 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



95 



To Educate a Horse to Waltz. 

Place a well paded sursingle upon hita and oring the head partially 
to side and tie to sursingle, tap him with the whip or crack it and say 
•'waltz". It is a good plan to play upon a mouth organ to inform 
him when there is music he must waltz. He will soon learn to waltz 
around with the music and at the command "waltz." 

IgipGrive short lessons at first, in a ring or circle. 



To Educate a Horse to Lie Down. 

SUBDUING COMBINED WITH EDUCATION, 

Place around the off fore ankle a good strap with ring; buckle a 
good single line in the ring; pass through ring on girt and out on near 
side; buckle another line in bridle: use bridle as shown in illustration 




IIXUSTBATION NO. 58. 

No 58, with slide loop well down on nose; run the line from bit 
through ring on near side ; take a line in each hand and pull steady. 
This will pull up his off foot and throw his head to the near side, and 
he will soon lie down on his off side. Caress and let him lie. If he 
attempts to get up, pull upon the lines and he cannot get up. When 
he lies quiet, caress, and say "get up." Let him up. He will come up 
on all four feei, and will stand much easier than if one foot was fast- 
ened up as is practiced by the old way. You may soon lay him down 
again carefully. Soft sand or plenty of saw dust on the ground is the 
only proper place to teach a horse this and other tricks where he has 



96 EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



to lie down. Bepeat lying him down (with a rest between each time) 
until he will lie down at a slight pull upon the rope and the word 
"down." Now take both lines in left hand and with blunt whip tap 
him on the back side of fore leg and at the same time say " down," 
and pull the lines a little. He will soon lie down at the tap of the 
whip on the ground at his fronl feet. This will take three or four 
days. It may be done sooner, but you will discourage him if you work 
him too much. Feed him oats while lying down, and caress him, and 
you will have no trouble if you repeat often enough. Never strike 
him while lying down or you will spoil htm for this nice little trick, 
surely. This is a nice trick and after he will lie down readily, you 
can make him lie down upon a blanket, or Buffalo robe. In the 
street, if you cannot handle him easily this way, you may make his off 
fore foot fast to the girt Do not draw it up too tight, as it will hurt 
him. If he will not lie down now, you may place the line and strap on 
near fore foot, and as he steps pull it up and this will bring him to his 
knees, and he will soon lie down. In each case pull his head to near 
side. 



To Make a Horse Kneel. 

After he will lie down readily you may place a well-paded girth upon 
him, buckle a well fitting strap around each front ankle below fetlocks, 
buckle two good single lines to these, pass them over girth or through 
rings on the under sides of girth, then give him the motion and word 
to lie down and as he goes down on his knees say "whoa" caress and 
let him up, or make him get up before he lies down, repeat and in a 
few days he will kneel down readily when you ask him to make a 
"prayer". Much patience will be required to do this, as he will want 
to lie down as soon as he goes to his knees, but kindness and patience 
will bring him where you want him after a little practice. If he re. 
fuses to get down on his knees, pull upon the lines which will take up 
both of his front feet. 



Teaching the Horse to Sit Up. 

After your horse will lie down at the word, you may teach him to sit 
up. This you may do in this way : Place upon him Edward's bridle 
and while he is lying down take hold close to the bit and say "sit up." 
As he places his fore feet in front of him in the attempt to get up say 
"whoa," and pull down upon the bridle, which will have a tendency to 
stop him. Caress him and let him up, as he will get uneasy to lie down 
again or get up by force, which should be avoided. If he refuses to 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



stop at all in the sitting posture make him lie down immediately, and 
repeat, and after a few lessons of this kind he will in most cases, if you 
are kind and patient, improve very fast. Never take him upon a 
floor covered with straw, it will work out from under his legs, and the 
floor will hurt him, and he will be uneasy. If you cannot accomplish 
it in this way, place upon hind legs, below the fetlocks, two good 
wide straps (well lined,) with rings on, and place upon him a good 
name collar. Now make him lie down and buckle a pair of good single 
lines in the rings and draw his hind legs well under his body; pass the 
lines out between his front legs and tie to collar in bow knot, so they 
can be untied quickly. Now take short hold of bridle as at first and 
say ll sit up," and as he comes to the sitting posture he will be held 
there. Hold him a short time and then make him lie down, loosen 
the lines and let him rest, and caress him Repeat once or twice and 
then let him up. After a few lessons in this way he will lie down and 
sit up at the word, and then by the motion, if you wish to teach him by 
motion or sign. 

f^**Ground bottom covered with sawdust is best,and really the only 
place fit to give these lessons upon. 



Teaching the Horse to Roll Over. 

We will assume that he will lie down or sit up readily by this time. 
Buck lea good fitting strap on each ankle, with rings attached, take 
him to some place and make him lie down as formerly, only have his 
back a little down hill. Now, snap or buckle a line in each ring on 
straps on the legs on the side upon which he is lying. Stand by his 
back and touch him on the side with a light whip and say !i roll over, 1 ' 
and pull him over before he has a chance to get up. Caress him and 
repeat. The first time he attempts to roll over or does roll over with- 
out assistance, caress, fondle and feed him something he likes. He will 
soon roll over himself and enjoy the sport, by touching him upon the 
oridle and giving the command to *' roll over. 1 ' 



Educating to Kick With One or Both Feet. 

This is very easily taught and always amuses the audience and pro- 
vokes laughter. Place an open bridle upon him and take one line in 
hand upon the side you wish to educate. Stand a little to one side of 
him and use the whip with small wire nail driven through by lash (as 
used for learning to drive by tap of whip), touch him just below the 
hock joint with lash and say " what? " If the lash does not make him 
move his foot, use the point of nail, and if he moves his foot 



EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



or make the least attempt to kick, step up and caress him. He 
will, by repeating this, soon kick with lis foot at the drop of 
the whip towards his leg and the question " what do you do if the boys 
plague yon, what?"' Teach him on the other side the same way, to 
make him kick with the other foot; and then to make him kick with 
both feet, touch him on top of the dock or at the roots of the tail. 
Ask the same, or some question commencing with ' what." Do not 
touch him elsewhere to make him kick, as the breeching or other straps 
might hit this spot and cause him to be uneasy. By practicing this a 
short time he will kick very nicely, if properly taught, and will kick 
only when commanded. 



To Kick Hitched to Circus Cart. 

After he will kick well, hitch him to a small cart with plank in front, 
but no thills. Then give him the touch at the roots of the tail or dock 
and he will kick as much as you wish. 



To Make Horse Drive Horse. 

Have a stout cart with small wheels, and hitch the kicker on in 
front, then make the other mule get up on the cart with front feet, 
hand him the lines and as he takes them start the other horse, and he 
will walk around with front feet on cart. He should first be taught to 
get on the cart and be drawn slowly around the ring by a person, stop- 
ping often and repeating, and he will soon ride and drive. 



To Educate to Throw Rider. 

After he kicks well on the cart, you may make a straw man by stuf- 
fing an old coat and pair of pants, tie it on him, start him around the 
ring on a run and stop him suddenly, and pull the straw man off with 
a cord attached to one leg. Go up to him, feed and caress him, then 
place the straw man on him again and start him off, and give him the 
sign to kick, and stop him at the same time, and pull the image off 
again. By repeating a few times, it is almost impossible to ride him 
when the sign is given to kick and bolt. This always makes fun, and 
if the horse is fat and smooth, no man or boy can stay on him without 
a saddle an. bridle. 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



Educating to Go Lame. 

Take your horse by the bridle with the left hand, standing on near 
side. Walk along with hini and say "lame;" tap him with the but of 
the whip first baek of the knee and he will soon limp by pointing the 
the whip at his leg. You may now ask him if he is "lame". Let's see? 
— start him and he will soon go lame. When you stop him make him 
rest upon the lame foot or not stand upon it, and by pointing at his 
leg, you may ask him any question you wish and he will go lame, and 
will soon go lame when you take the right position if you do not point 
at him. 



Educating to Gallop. 

Take him by the bridle reins close to the head and walk along by his 
shoulder and with a short, blunt whip, touch him under the chin light- 
ly at first. If he only tosses his head caress him and repeat. Increase 
the blows under the chin and he will soon raise up off the ground with 
both feet. After you get him so he will gallop well, ask him what he 
does when the ladies ride him, start off with him and give him the 
sign, and he will gallop. Then stop him and ask him what he do^s 
when the boys ride him, and give him the sign to kick with both feet 
and his legs will fly up in the air and everybody will laugh. 



Educating to Laugh. 



Stand by his head and placing the left hand on his nose take the 
but end of a short whip and touch him in the roof of the mouth. Now 
place a halter upon him and take hold two or three feet from the head 
and say "laugh," at the same time jab him lightly in the mouth with 
butt of whip and he will soon laugh at the command or pointing at the 
head with the whip. It will take much patience and perseverence to 
teach this triek nicely. It is a good plan to place a piece of sweet ap- 
ple in the mouth as he opens it to laugh. Make it a point to get his 
head up a little while teaching this trick. 



Educating to Paw or Count. 

Stand by his near side and commence by touching him lightly with 
the point of a nail driven through the end of the whip as described in 
lesson for driving without reins. Touch him just above the knee on 
the back side of fore leg and say "how." He will show signs of paw- 



100 EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 

ing, for which caress him and repeat until he will count or paw by 
droping the top of whip toward his front leg. Then you may ask him 
"how" old he is or "how" many quarts of oats he wants? and make 
him stop pawing by taping him on the back when you raise the whip. 
You may have to tap him quite hard to make bim stop when you raise 
the whip. He will soon count, add, and answer any question you may 
ask him by counting. To teach him to paw with rhe other *oot you 
must change the position enough so he can easily distinguish the differ- 
ence and will never make any mistake. Your success in this, as in 
other lessons of this kind, will depend upon your skill to make the 
horse comprehend what you want of him, without exciting or making 
him fear you. 

If any one is looking on after you have taught your horse to count, 
etc., and you ask him a question and he does not answer it, pay no at- 
tention to it. Ask him some other question or have him do some 
other little trick, and teach him more thoroughly when alone the one 
he refused to answer. 



Educating the Horse to say Yes and No. 

Stand by his near shoulder with pin in left hand, take hold of whip 
with same hand. With the pin in thumb and forefinger slide the hand 
down on whip and touch him on the breast with pin. He will soon 
bite at you or try to relieve the trouble by bowing his head. Caress 
and repeat and he will soon bow at any question you may ask him by 
moving the hand down on the whip a little. Teach him this thorough- 
ly and then commence teaching him to say "no," by raising the hand 
up on the whip and using the pin on his neck just in front of where 
the hame collar comes and a little on one side. Slide the hand down 
and make him say "Yes" or bow. Slide it up and make him say "no." 
Ask him any question you wish and he will answer properly every time 
if you change the position of the hand. Change the position of the 
hand carefully and easily and no one will see how it is done. Always 
as you teach this let a little time elapse between each question or lie 
will get in a notion of answering before you ask, which should be 
avoided. When you take your position hold the whip in right hand 
and as you ask the question change it over to left hand, with this hand 
in position for the answer you desire. 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 101 

Educating to Take (XT Your Gap, Pick up 
Your Whip, etc. 

Stand close to his near shoulder with cap in left hand and pin in 
your right Prick him lightly on the shoulder, at the same time hold 
the cap under his nose, and he will soon bite at it. Caress him. and 
by repeating you can soon place the cap on your head and stoop over 
and he will take it off, and then say, "give it here," and (see lesson in 
teaching to give you things) take it before he drops it. You can grad- 
ually raise your head and he will reach up and take your hat off, and 
by lowering it with the hand he v/ill soon pick it up off the ground. 
The same with the whip or handkerchief. If he is careless and drops 
things, touch him with the whip and make him pick it up again, and 
repeat, and he will soon be afraid to drop them. 

To teach him to go after it, throw it away a little at first and make 
him pick it up. Increase the distance very slowly and he will soon go 
away and get your hat, whip or handkerchief and bring it to you. If 
you wish him to go and get either one of two handkerchiefs, red or 
white, teach him by a motion, and by practice he will go after the one 
you slightly motion for him to— that is if your horse stands facing you. 
If you place two handkerchiefs on the floor and some one asks him 
to get the red one, give him the motion by placing the hand on that 
side upon the collar of your coat or something similar. This takes some 
time and patieuce, bat can be taught any horse of ordinary intelli- 
gence. No one can detect you if you are a competent teacher and 
your horse an attentive scholar, well educated. Do not in this, as in 
other tricks, punish too sharply for disobedience, or you will get up too 
much fear in your horse, and the result will not be as good. 



Educating to G-ive You Things. 

After your horse will take things from you and pick them up, to 
make him hand them back is quite easily taught. After he takes your 
hat and holds it a short time, say ''give," and touch him on the shoul- 
der or side with a pin and reach out the hand to take it. If he should 
drop it, make him pick it up again, and repeat it, and he will soon 
hand things to you very nicely. Caress him every time he turns his 
head towards you and take what he has in his mouth, and he will soon 
turn after you and hand or give you anything readily that he can pick 
up. Then make him pick up your hat and, taking a few steps away, 
say "give it here," and he will obey, if you touch him lightly upon the 
side on which you stand. 



102 EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



To Teach a Horse How to Open a Box. 

After having him thoroughly taught to pick up things and bring 
them to you, you may teach him to open a box and take handkerchief, 
etc., out of it and bring to you, in this way. First make a door and 
saw a hole about a foot square in the center of it. Stand it up on one 
side of box stall and fasten it so it will not fall down. Then place a 
halter upon your horse, taking him by the chin piece of the halter, 
lead him up to the door with the right hand while with the left you 
hold something he likes (sweet apple for instance) through the hole 
and he will take it. Now nail a slat across the hole with one nail at 
the top. Lead him up again and show him the apple and he will tiy 
to get it by pushing the slat to one side with his nose. As he does this 
pet him and say "box" , "box." Keep nailing a wider slat until the 
hole is entirely covered. Then take your whip, (a short riding whip) 
and tap him just back of where the baok pad rests. Partially open 
the cover and let him smell the apple, then close it and tap him again 
and say "box." He will soon push the cover to one side and take the 
apple. Next you present a handkerchief and touch him as you did in 
teaching to pick up anvthing, and he will soon take the handkerchief. 
Have him bring it to you and feed him the apple, and caress. Now 
make a box one foot square, hang it up in the same place and fasten 
on the cover so it will turn easily with one nail at the top and say 
"open the box," and he will take things out and bring them to you. 



Educating to Kiss You. 

Take sweet apples cut into quarters and place in your pockets a 
good supply; then take a small stick, sharpen it so you can stick a 
piece of apple on it, and feed him from the hand, moving your hand 
nearer your face each time until he takes the apple from the stick 
which you hold in your teeth. Touch him on the side with a pin and 
say, "kiss me." Place the stick in your mouth with the apple upon 
it and he will soon kiss you at the word. If he refuses, tap him on the 
side with the whip and say " kiss me," and touch him with the pin and 
he will soon learn he must kiss you. Sometimes he might nut be apple 
hungry, and this would be the only way to make him obey. This is a 
very nice trick when well done, creates affection and is highly inter- 
esting to lovers of the equine race. 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 103 

To Educate to Close a Door. 

After he will open the box hang a light door in the same place as 
box. Show him the apple and touch him with the whip and lead him 
with his nose against the door, which will swing. After a few times, 
with patience and kindness, he will close the door at the word "close." 
Touch the whip, then say "close the door, " tap him with the whip and 
he will close the door and will soon close any door of medium size at the 
word. 



To Open a Door. 



After he will close the door, fasten your handkerchief on the door at 
the outward edge, shake it and touch him as to pick up things, and he 
will take hold of the handkerchief. Then touch him as to back on the 
head and as he takes one step back caress and feed. Repeat until he 
will take hold of the handkerchief and open the door. Then place a 
strap in place of handkerchief and he will open the door by taking 
hold of the strap. • , 



To Teach Him to Walk Up and Down 
Stairs. 

First make a strong platform 10 inches high, 10 feet long, and 8 feet 
wide, make him step upon this. Place one foot up with the hand and 
he will soon step upon this with the other. Lead him over this until 
he shows no signs of fear or disobedience ; then place another box in 
the center of this about a foot smaller, same height and lead him over 
this the same ; and then place on a box a foot smaller, each time mak- 
ing them secure so he will not loose confidence at their shaking and 
you soon can lead him up any flight of stairs that are not very steep, 
and can lead him down in the same way. 



Conduct. 

If you teach your horse these tricks you can command a fancy price 
at' any time. I have practiced these theories and am confident that any 
boy or man with a sufficient quantity of " horse in him," as they term 
it, can make each and every rule work. Never loose courage or confi- 
dence in your ability because you may not bring about good results 



104 EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 

easily. To accomplish anything of importance, remember, requires no 
ordinary resolution and perseverance. There would be no credit or 
importance in teaching a horse many tricks or in managing bad horses 
if not difficult or apparently dangerous. 

No duty requires more firmness of purpose in the control of the pas- 
sions, or more fidelity to the principles of firmness and truth than that 
of good horsemanship 

If you would be a great, genuine, successful horseman, you must 
never seem to forget by your conduct that you are a man and that 
your superiority over the animal really consists in the prudent exer- 
cise of your reasoning powers and good judgment. Torture and brute 
force are not your forte, and the moment you give way to passion, your 
reason yields to the control of blind instinct and you at once throw 
away your intellectual superiority over the animal. It is your duty to 
prove by the example of your actions that to be a good horseman re 
quires higher qualifications of fitness than anger, dishonesty and 
depravity, occasionally evinced in the conduct of some claiming the 
distinction, but who come very far from ever reaching this point. 



In Conclusion of Teaching Tricks. 

I would like to state that while it may seem impossible to some, I 
can show a two-year-old colt at present writing that understands and 
will perform forty separate and distinct feats, and I can prove he has 
had but four month's training. He also drives upon the run without 
reins. No one ever taught this colt anything but myself, more than to 
halter break him. While some may say it is a humbug and do not be 
lieve it, I repeat I can prove by good authority and by Bonner E. Bris- 
tol himself, as he will show you the forty feats if you come to see him. 



The Song of the Horse. 

For bits you may look to the ends of all creation; 

You may search every store at every place or station; 
But you never will find with true justification, 

All the merits combined in the '' Edward's combination.' 

With its adjustable qualities, and lever swiveled eyelet, 
It may be placed with pride in a 2:10 horse's toilet. 

The object of its construction 'tis impossible to foil it, 
To govern without irritation, try it; you cannot spoil it. 

Of course you have heard many a song, 
Some that were short and some that were long: 

But I do not think you can truly endorse, 
That you ever have heard this song of the horse. 

"lam your faithful servant and I'll plod all day, 
If you'l use ' Edward's theories ' with good oats and hay. 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 105 

Shetland Ponies— How the Little Horses 
Are Obtained. 

The majority of Americans know very little about the manner in 
which these animals are raised and the character of the people who 
raise them. F >r instance, it is the popular belief that the buyer goes 
to Shetland and picks up a drove of ponies as easily he would a flock 
of sheep in Texa-*. But such is not the faet, by any means. The 
large island is about forty-five miles square, very rough and hilly, and 
is populated by small farmers. The climate is quite severe in the win- 
ter. Every farmer owns one, two, three or more Shetland mares, 
from which they raise the ponies, and shelter them in rude sheds. 
The animals live principally on potatoes, turnips, and a peculiar kind 
of spear-grass, i idigenous to that eountry. As soon as the warm spring 
days come the country is visited by buyers from England and the con- 
tinent, who come to catch bargains for the nobility. The ponies are 
in great demmd for the wealthier classes of England, who buy than 
for their boys. These Shetland farmers are a common, ordinary set 
of men. They have a keen eye single to a good bargain in selling the 
pony, and the buyer has to use as many tricks of the horse-trader in 
that eountry as in Yankeedom. To gather the last drove of ponies I 
purchased there I had to ride over a large portion of the island — over 
hills and through ravines covered with snow — picking up one or two 
ponies here and there. The price for a pony is usually £5, and it costs 
from £8 to £10 each to ship them across the North Sea to Aberdeen, 
Scotland. By the time a pony is landed in America it costs the ship 
per about $125. 



Ladies on Horseback. 

Did you ever observe a lady just before she is lifted into a saddle, 
and a few moments after the horse has struck a canter ? She becomes 
a changed being The roses spring to her cheeks, the light seems to 
leap from her eyes, her form is the inspiration of graceful action, and 
she becomes a beauteous picture of moving health. And this, after all, 
is the best view to take of horseback riding. Aside from it* charm, its 
dash, its buoyancy of motion, its special or general beauty, it is the 
most healthful exercise within the province of women. It is better 
than dancing, lawn tennis, croquet, rowing, archery. There are many 
reasons why it is better, and one of the strongest seems to be that it 
brings continuous change of scene, which tends to rest the body as 
well as the mind. The fascinating effects which it has on the fair rider 
cannot be estimated, provided she has a well-trained horse and indul- 
ges in moderation. 



106 EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



Points of A Good Horse. 

Points of Excellence — Size. — While mere bulk is comparatively 
useless, a fair amount of substance is absolutely necessary. The tall 
horse is apt to be leggy and long in the cannon-bones. Length in the 
arms, shoulders, thighs, and haunches is desirable. 

Color— (It is an old adage that a good horse is any color, but 
there are exceptions to all rules.) Bay, chestnut, black and brown 
are good colors, although the bay and black, especially for matched, 
horses, .are probably most sought and admired. 

Symmetry of Body — The withers should be high and thin; should- 
ers, oblique and muscular, showing good leverage; chest, large, wide 
above and deep ; back short and broad ; barrel, round and close rib- 
bed; loins strong and muscular; body, strong underneath, rump, mod- 
erately drooping and well muscled. 

Head and Neck — The head should be clean, and delicate, and as 
small as would be in keeping with the rest of the body; wide and flat 
between the eyes; forehead, bold and prominent; muzzle, fine; nostrils 
large; mouth, deep; lips, thin and firmly compressed; throttle, broad 
and deep; neck, good length, thin on top, with windpipe well de- 
tached. 

Eye and Ear— The eye should be large and prominent. The eye 
of the horse is an accurate index of his temper, and experience has 
shown if too much white is visible he is a dangerous one. The ear 
should be thin, erect, and not to long— quick and lively. The ear in- 
dicates both spirit and breeding. 

Feet and Limbs— The feet should be smooth, fine tecture, and 
well shaped, with good ground surface; heels, not to high; frog, large 
and elastic. The arm should be long and large; knee, long and flat; 
sinews, prominent and firm; pasterns, strong and properly inclined; 
stifle, strong an^ powerful ; quarters deep, reaching down into long 
but smooth hocks; hock, large, long, clean, and well proportioned. 
The leg, from hock down, should be straight, short and fat, with 
sinews standing weil out from the hip bone and free from all defects. 
The hind pasterns thould be stronger and more oblique than the pas- 
terns of the fore leg. 

The Tail — The tail should be long and full, muscular, and well set 
upon the rump, carried free. The bone should not be too large, or 
course. 

Speed at the Trot— The gate should be an even, regular, honest, 
and genuine trot, without requiring boots or weights. The ability to 
pull weights is a quality of exceeding value, and when found in com- 
bination witn speed and stoutness, we may say that the prime charact- 
eristic of the speed horse are obtained. 

Speed m Walking — The step should be bold, Ann, elastic and far 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



107 



reaching. 

Style and Action— The high action and elegant carriage so desir- 
able in the park horse is not considered so necessary in the gentle- 
man's driving and family classes. Still, there should be easy and 
graceful action, combined with well-balanced harmony of parts, to- 
gether with speed, intelligence and fearlessness, which are indispensa- 
ble in this class of horses. The action should be free and clear, dis 
pensing with the necessity of boots or other safe guards on the limbs 
of the animal. 



Standard Size and Speed. 

Height. Speed. 

Matched carriage horses ' 16 hands; *6 minutes. 

Matched gent's driving horses 15>£ hands; 3 minutes. 

Family horses 15% hands; 5 minutes. 

Crent's driving horse , 15% hands; 2:35 minutes . 

Park or Phaeton horse ....,.„ , 16 hands; 4 minutes. 



108 



EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 




PERFECTION. 

Thinking that "Perfection" can as well answer these points as any 
horse we ever saw, we insert an engraving of him by Ramsdell and 
we trust you will agree with us that he is, as seen in Illustration No. 
58£, a fair sample of a perfect horse. 



Eleven Gentleman Horseman's Rules. 

1— YOUR STABLES. Make them as comfortable as possible: 
warm for winter, cool for summer, with plenty of light coming in from 
different directions, and if possible, not directly in front of him. 

2— VENTILATION. Good, pure air is very essential, so arranged 
without a draft sweeping over the horse. 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 109 

3 -FLOORS. Have them so constructed by sloping backward, or 
by boring holes through, to facilitate the drainage of urine. 

4 — BEDDING. Use plenty of straw, saw-dust, or shavings. A 
horse well bedded and cared for at night is half supported. 

5— STALLS. Clean them well daily. Empty the feed boxes and 
mangers from time to time of all accumulated dust or refuse. 

6 — BLANKETS. Provide yourself with good woolen blankets. 
Keep it on him when out of doors, spring, fall and winter. Care in 
this respect will be economy in every way. 

7— CHEST PROTECTOR They are much used at the present 
time, especially on cart aad draught horses. They prevent the taking 
of cold, and lung complaints generally. 

8— FEEDING. The bane of the stable is careless feeding. Give 
with as much regularity as possible what the horse needs— not what 
he will eat. Heavy work, heavy feed; light work, light feed. Bran 
mash once a week — seven times a week if sick. Oats are the horse's 
body, all agree to this. At any rate they are good enough. Oats for 
muscle, corn for warmth. Of course circumstances must regulate 
what you feed, but you can always regulate how you feed it. 

9 — WATER. As a rule when on the road water when convenient. 
Do not neglect giving this great necessity to comfort and life. You 
like good, pure water, so does your faithful friend. He needs it, and 
all the intricate processes of life demand it. ' Water your horse, I say, 
but do it judiciously. 

10— REST. This is often better than medicine. His energies re- 
cuoarate when he is out of the harness and comfortable. Above all, do 
not let Tom, Dick and Harry have the work horse Sunday. Th< y are 
almost certain to neglect him in some way. I would trust a man 
quicker with my pocket book than with my horse. 

11— SHOEING. Attend to the shoeing and accompanying dan- 
gers of i he same if poorly done. Use kindness and proper treatment, 
and try to convince those that shoe your horses which is the right way 
to do it. 

In brief, give attention in every respect to decency and kindness 
to your horses. 



- How To Tell Age by Teeth. 

A full grown horse or stallion has 40 teeth and a mare 46. Horses 
have 4 bridle or hook teeth. 

There are not many, I presume to say, that can tell a horse's age 
much better by looking at an engraving of teeth in a book, so I will 
give a few rules that may be relied upon : 

At 2 years old the colt has a full set of milk or colt teeth. He will 



110 EDWARDS' PRACTICAL. 

soon need others of a more durable and firmer setting. This necessity 
nature meets by commencing the replacement by the more permanent 
on s. This operation begins with the first grinder, the forward one. 
But as the grinders are too far back to be easily inspected, we must 
continue to depend mainly upon what we can discover in connection 
with the nippers. During the third year the central nippers, both 
upper and lower, are being shed, and by the time the process ia com- 
pleted the permanent pair have become nearly full grown. 

In the fourth year the same changes occur. Two new teeth make 
their appearance in the upper and two in the lower jaw. There yet 
remain the corner teeth above and below which will be shed at the age 
of four past. The bridle teeth, or tushes, are generally in plain sight. 
The horse is said to have full mouth now at the age of 5 years. 

At 6 years the central nipper of the lower jaw are worn down so 
that the cups are nearly obliterated. In some horses they are entirely 
gone and the central nippers in the upper jaw show the decrease in 
in the depth of the cup. 

At 7 years the cups in the four central nippers of the lower jaw 
are no longer visible and the cups in the four central nippers in the 
upper jaw are just wearing away. 

At 8 years they are all oval. The cups in all the teeth in the lower 
jaw are worn out, yet the enamel, or white mark is still visible. 

At 9 years the only guide we have is the shape of the face of the 
theeth, or nippers. The cups are worn out in the central nippers of the 
upper jaw and a hook has been formed on the corner of the teeth. 

At 10 years the te- th diminishes somewhat in width but not in 
thickness. They become a little apart from each other and their 
surface a litte rounded. 

At 11 years the second pair of nippers are quite rounded and then 
from 12 to 13 years the corner ones have that appearance. 

Prom 14 to 16 years the face of the nippers become somewhat tri- 
angular and the angles begin to wear off. The central teeth are oval 
f rom outward to inward, and at 20 they all have this form. 

From 20 to 30 years all lines and marks dissapear and the indica- 
tions of old age are independent of the teeth. At this age are deepen- 
ing of the hollows over the eyes, gray hairs about the nose and eyes, 
thinness and hanging down of the lips and sharpness of the lower jaw 
bones. 



Teeth of the Three and Four Year Old. 

The three-year-old colts cut four front teeth, and in their fourth 
year they cut four front and eight back teeth and four tushes (gener- 
ally), making sixteen teeth cut at the age of four years. More or less 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. Ill 

irritation must necessarily attend the cutting of these teeth, causing 
considerable fever. (The teeth of hordes are receiving more attention 
than formerly.) When the three-year-old sheds the molars (or grind- 
ers) the roots become absorbed, the crowns get loose and hang to the 
gums, and should be removed as they will cut the cheek inside and 
make the mouth sore. The horse with decayed teeth and tooth ache 
will toss the head, discharge from one nostril, irritable disposition, 
pulling or lugging on the bit or refusal to take the bit. The remedv is 
to get a veterinary to remove them. I have come to believe, especially 
in training for speed, it desirable to give much attention to the teeth. 
Still I believe that nature intends or was meant to meet these wants, 
and if the horse is left alone he will never have trouble with his teeth 
any more than a cow or sheep. Some bits bringing pressure where 
they do, cause irritation and the teeth should be attended to. 



The Mule. 

Train and educate the mule exactly the same as the horse from be 
ginning to end. There is no rule that can be applied to the horse that 
cannot be applied to the mule, he being nearer in proximity to the 
horse than any o her animal. The mule, as a rule, is more persistent, 
and slower to comprehend than the horse, while some of them may be 
educated to perform as many feats as the horse. 



WHAT THE MULE WOULD SAY. 

Where is the trainer so funny and quick, 

Trying to see if I will kick; 
Wait 'till he gets close behind, 

I won't kill him, "in your mind." 



A Word With Horse Trainers, 

In the first place I wish to impress upon your mind, especially if you 
are young and of limited practice and experience, that if you intend to 
follow the business of horse training or educating, to construct or have 
constructed a harness and bridle complete, breaking sleigh and sulky 
that no horse can break, let him do what he may — one that is simply 
proof against everything but a railroad locomotive. This once done 
you may start out with one assurance of much consolation, and that is 
that you will not be obliged to make repairs every few days of more or 
less expense. How often I have heard a trainer say ''the colts are 
always breaking something." Having been poorly handled, and con- 
sequently hard to train or educate, they often do damage to harness 



112 EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



and carriage, if not injure themselves, in consequence of not having a 
good, stout outfit to commence with. I have seen men weighing 200 
pounds taken over fences and dragged about, and horse9 turn around 
and cramp a wagon and break the axle, tip the vehicle over and possi- 
bly get away, but no horse of my own training has ever "done me up," 
as they call it, with my break harness and sulky, the credit for which 
you may place where you wish. 

You will find many difficulties to overcome if you go from place to 
place to train horses, coming in contact at times with old and vic'ous 
animals and desperate runaways. Handle them as described in former 
pages and keep on the safe side. I have heard some trainers say if a 
horse would not come to Mine or act right when they took him out they 
would take him back upon the floor and give him another lesson This 
might work as a rule, but I have seen horses that would take you back 
to the floor forpver, because they did not like to be hitched to a wagon. 
This horse must be hitched to a sulky, let come what will. Use the 
leg harness and after a struggle or two and he has wrestled with the 
sulky until he is satisfied that he cannot kick or break it, he will give 
up and act like another horse, and become a good, servicable animal. 
This is, of course, a case of the worst tppe of viciousness. Place upon 
such a horse the leg harness. If you start out with a light bridle and 
reins to educate horses, you may rest assured you will get left. Get 
everything in readiness and go straight about your business and pay 
no attention to those who find fault or make strong remarks al>out 
you. The piobabilitie- are that they would not do half as well your- 
self if they were in your place. You, of course, must have been asso- 
ciated with the horse for some time and made a study of his nature and 
habits, and have more than an ordinary amount of energy, self-con- 
trol and perseverence to be successful. 

If you do not train more than one horse in a year, do it well and 
get your pay for it. Never deviate from a good, living price, for as 
sure as you do you will be money and time out. While a majority of 
horses may be taught to follow under the whip and the same prove 
very beneficial to them, there are cases where training with the whip 
does no good, as some animals of a very nervous and flighty tempera- 
ment get so much excited at the crack of the whip and fear it to such 
an extent. The more quiet way you accustom them to the whip, the 
better. This I generally do by handling them to an ordinary buggy 
whip in a box stall. Some men have an idea and have intimated the 
same to me, that I take a horse upon a barn floor and whip him until 
he comes to me. This is not the case. In some instances, where there 
was very poor light and the eye of the* animal was of an unnatural 
color, owing to the darkness, and could not see well, I have used the 
lash whip a little more than would have been necessary if I could have 
caught the horse's eye with the sight of my own and kept it with a 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 113 

good light. At the same time I can teach most any horse to follow in 
a good, well-lighted enclosure, in about fifteen minutes— and have done 
it in three minutes without whipping — and you can do the same if you 
manipulate your whip and eye in the right way. 

You may say to the owner, " I will train this horse for so much, 
but I am to dictate as to how much or how little r,o give him." Here 
is a very important point. The owner has a colt, you commence to 
train him and he turns out to be a hard one, and he thinks a great deal 
of him. The only way to do is to reason the matter and use good, 
common sense, good judgment, and proceed as best you can to finish 
the work. 

In all the horses I have trained, I have never had any trouble with 
owners, lost any pay, or injured or blemished any horses. I have not 
had as much experience as some, still I think it safe to say there are 
very few men of my age that have had as much experience with horses 
as myself. The training of speed horses is an art, and is almost in- 
variably accomplished by those who have trained eolts and horses to 
some extent, and with a good, level head and business qualities, that 
would make him successful at whatever he should undertake. I really 
believe there is more need of good judgment in stopping when you 
have done enough in this business than in any other. 



Breeding. 

This subject once taken up might be made into a book of consid- 
erable magnitude. As space will not allow this, and a laek of knowl- 
edge on my part, I will give only a few ideas. In the first place, there 
are in my estimation, three classes from which you may choose to breed, 
viz, the draft, the coach and the race horse. It matters not which of 
these you choose to breed Unless you start right you need not expect 
to be successful. How shall I start, you asls. 1 answer simply by 
saying procure a dam that has all the requisite qualities to produce an 
offspring equally good or better than herself. Look well to the dispo- 
sition, hardihood, longevity and pedigree of her race. Having ob- 
tained a dam, standing at the head of the respective class to which she 
belongs, and you breed her to a sire that is her equal in every respect, 
you may expect, if you know what you want, to see your beau ideal of 
a colt. I have often said, and I think that you will agree with me, that 
there is nothing more ridiculous and silly than the effort some people 
put forth to make a trotter out of a draft horse, and crossing dunghills 
with thoroughbreds. It is the silliest •dnd of ambition to want your 
draft or farm horse to take on an artificial gait. The effort generally 
ends in a failure so far as speed is concerned, and you are in great dan 
ger of permanently injuring your horse. Much piofit can be obtained, 



114 EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



combined with pleasure, in raising the coach horse. You can always 
get a good price for a good pair of coachers. The road or general pur- 
pose horse is probably bred the most extensively, owing to the greatest 
number of mares of this kind and the necessity of breeding so because 
you need this kind. 



The Race Horse. 

Some claim it is useless to raise or breed trotters, as they are so 
small as a class. The most prominent reason why most men do not get 
good prices for their trotting colts is that they do not know how to 
train them, or if they do, they neglect to do so, thinking the colt should 
trot a ll 40 clip" the first time he is hitched, or he is no trotter. If you 
make a few visits to the race horse breeders' establishments and see 
them train a few colts, and then go to their sales and see the same colts 
sold for from |800 to $1,000, you will go home saying, " what prices?" 
and undoubtedly decide that it pays to raise trotters. 

Take my advice and go and see some of the most extensive breed- 
ers and see the clear cut, open gaited, thorough-breds used for breed- 
ing purposes. 

At the same time I wish to impress upon your mind that the draft 
horse of a certain class are fast coming into favor. They are bread 
and butter earners and what the farmer must have to draw the plow, 
do the daily ploding. Breed what you may, it must be done with 
care. Provide a place for the colt and give him a chance at the grain 
box and he will repay you. 

A good disposition is first to be looked at, as a horse with a level 
head may be relied upon. I feel sorry for men who are and have been 
for a long time raising this class of horses and making a failure for the 
reason of not using good judgment in selecting a first-class, thorough 
bred dam to breed from. It costs no more to raise a colt worth $500 
than one worth $50. 



That Which Is Hereditary. 

I have often talked with men upon this subject. Some argue ex- 
actly opposite from others. It is my candid opinion however that 
many more would believe as I do if they could see what I have seen. 
Nearly every case where the sire or dam have prime qualities, the off- 
spring will have the same. It is not consistant to say that because a 
sire or a dam is a kicker, the colt must necessarily be. But due cau- 
tion in each case should betaken to prevent the hereditaty defects com- 
ing into prominence. I believe that a great many more minute things 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 115 

are carried from generation to generation to a far greater extent than 
most people believe. 

If you are associated with horses for some time you will see more 
of this every day, if you make a study of their nature. I have seen 
the traits of the dam in a colt three days old. Some would say that 
this was only a playful action if it were a kick. I have often seen 
this play as it is called carried into damaging effect if not stopped in 
time. I well remember when a small boy of a colt we had. His 
mother was a chronic halter puller. This colt was hitched when only a 
few weeks old with a good strap halter and he pulled exactly like his 
mother He never got away or broke the halter, still he would pull. 
He never had any pulling rigs placed upon him, if he had he po&sibly 
might have been broken of the habit, but I believe it was hereditary 
as much as I ever believed anything. The first time he was tied it was 
in a box stall where he had been many times and still he would pull. 
So I think it is in many cases, though many may possibly not be so 
strongly manifested as this. 



The Mustang. 

At the present writing I have four mustangs to train to ride and 
drive single and double. I have often been asked why these horses are 
so hard to train. They are semi- wild to begin with, and never having 
seen anything in the hands of man but a lasso and red hot branding 
iron, being branded as some are from one to six times. Is it any won- 
der they are wild and hard to handle? To whip the mustang when 
he is mad or in a sulk is labor thrown away. Still at times you will be 
obliged to be severe even more so than with the native horse. You will 
be obliged to take more time and touch him up more lively with the 
whip to teach him to follow at the snap of the finger; will be obliged 
to handle him more severe with the bit and smothering nose piece. 
At the same time you must not lose your temper. Always approach 
him at the head, and caress. After you get him into a small enclosure, 
(barn floor is good,) one that there is no possible chance of his getting 
out of, you may commence to drive him around you with the whip. 
As he passes by you work a little closer to him. Each time pass the 
whip over his back and sides, down his legs and over his head. Keep 
this up for a while, and as he goes by you step in front of him. Reach 
out the hand and feed him if he will eat, touch him on the nose and 
caress him and let him rest an hour or two. 

You should now provide yourself with a good stout strap halter, and 
have a good center post or pole (one that will not break) placed in the 
center of your training pen. This center post once used always, is ap- 
preciated in training any vicious horse. Proceed carefully to get the 



116 EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 

halter upon hiui and attach 20 or 30 feet of good rope. Drive him 
around you, occasionally catching him around the pole to let him 
know you can hold him. Do not tie him or hold him so that he will 
get a chance to pull upon the halter. You should provide yourself 
now with 2<> or 39 feet more of rupe. Make a loop in the end and toss 
it over his back ; bring it out at the near side just back of the fore legs, 
pass the free end through the loop and draw up snug. He will com- 
mence by bucking or pitching, undoubtedly, and this is just what you 
are prepared for. He cannot kick you or jump on you as you have 
him around the center post. Let him go around until he is satisfied 
he cannot get the rope off, then approach and caress him. Give sever- 
al lessons of this kind before you attempt to harness. In all my train- 
ing I have never found but one mustang I could not teach to come to 
the crack of the whip or snap of the finger in a few moments This 
one I attribute the cause to his being tied to a tree by the under jaw 
as to make him afraid of man in the extreme. I trained him in a few 
days to follow. The owner was surprised to see the change in him. 
He was tied to the tree as the best resort to hold him, as he would 
kick, bite and strike when approached by man. (In all cases if the 
trainer is capable I would advise training to the whip as given under 
training to the whip in this book.) After he will allow you to ap- 
proach him and place the rope around him you can place the harness 
upon him, observing the former rules of training, using care in watch- 
ing him closely. If he sulk you can easily take it out of him with the 
smothering nose piece. Provide yourself with a break sulky and if 
you wish, strap a neck yoke to one of the thills by boring a hole 
throngh and secure the neck yoke to the same. After you get the 
mustang hitched in the thills properly you may place another horse at 
his side if you wish. In my training I never use the second horse at 
first. After a little it may do to help educate the mustang to rein. 
At all events if you provide yourself with a stout break sulky with 
good strong thills and strap him down well, you are at once secured 
against the greatest danger — kicking. I do not write this as an except- 
ional way of training mustangs, but have praticed it for years and have 
never injured one or had the owner dissatisfied after returning them. 
I have often had men ask me : How do you suppose the owner can 
drive him after you take him back? I always tell them they will 
drive them with the reins as I do. This idea some people have of say- 
ing a horse broken to day is not broke to-morrow is all nonsense. 
Providing the owner does not missmanage the horse, he will always be 
broken. Trainers cannot be held responsible for the poor horseman 
ship of others. ; and owners have often said to me I do not expect to 
drive the horse as you do, but if you can do as much with him I think 
I can do a little. In taking the mustang out at first, have a post set 
in the ground in smooth convenient place (in the yard is best), and 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



117 



take time and he will soon go round the post all right, I usually 
drive them around the post both ways before hitching to sulky. 
Then they are more apt to go without balking. Use the oacking hitch 
as seen in illustration No 5o (passing the off line through ring 
on back and near rein in left hand direct from bit.) I usually place 
this hitch upon the mustang as it gives a good chance to rein either 
way. You can make them back. If they do not back the first time 
do not give up or think the principals of training are wrong, but take 
time and by pulling the head around to one side they will soon back 
all right. As a rule it will take double the time to train a wild horse 
or mustang as an average native colt. Do not che'ck the mustang 
but little if any at first, unless you give him a complete lesson in check- 
ing as described in former pages. 



Training Steers. 



In educating steers, as in horses, much patience and perseverenee 
is necessary to assure success. The rules will be materially the same 
as for training horses— that is, applied in a way that makes them easy, 
safe and effectual. We will assume that you have a pair of one-year 
or two-year-old steers. Gret them into an enclosure, take near steer to 
center pole as seen in Illustration No. 59, in small yard, with plenty of 
well tramped straw, away from other steers. 




Illustration No. 59. 



First drive him around the pole to the left and say ''go on," tap- 
ping him on the back with the whip. Pull on the rope and he will 
soon walk around the pole. Now say " whoa," and tap him over the 



118 



EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



head, between the horns, and if he does not stop, pull upon one trip 
line wnich will bring up one foot, and if does not stop then pull up the 
other foot and he will stop, or connect the lines and pull up both feet 
— as seen in illustration. Let him rest often and feed some small ears 
of corn occasionally. Give each one this lesson for two or three days, 
each one separately, and do not try to teach them but one thing at a 
time, " to start " and then " to stop" at the command. After they will 
do this you may commence by teaching to "haw" drive the near one 
alone as before, around center pole to the left and say " ha»v," at the 
same time tap him on the neck about the ears Do not strike him 
hard as he does not know what you want of him yet. Teach him 
''haw " thoroughly. Then take the off steer, drive him around the 
pole and say "haw," and tap him on the rump. You can easily make 
him go around, as the rope on his head is around the pole and if he gets 
mad he cannot hook you or fight, as you have him by the head and 
feet. Next learn the near one to "gee," by driving around the pole to 
the right and say "gee," and tap him on the rump; and then the off 
one " gee " by driving the same and saying "gee," and tap him on 
the neck about the ears. This should take from four to six days, and 
if you are persevering and patient your steers will know more in this 
time than if driven a month hap hazard out in the field or road. Now 
yoke them together. Place rope on near one as seen in Illustration 
No. 60, and they can easily be driven around the pole to the left (or 




Illustration No. 



taught to " haw" together) by tapping them in the proper places witb 
the whip. Now place the rope upon the off one and around the pole, 
and drive them around the pole to the right, by giving the word "gee " 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 119 

and tapping them in the proper places as given in first lessons. Steers 
trained in this way will learn more in the same time and drive better, 
in my experience, than can be done in any other way. I once owned 
a pair of steers trained in this way. I never used anything heavier 
than a light, whalebone horse whip. They took first premium at every 
fair they were taken to and were sold in the spring that they were com- 
ing three years old for $ 150. This shows what a good pair of well- 
matched, well-trained steers are worth. In handling steers, as in 
horses, ine.ny men are in too much of a hurry. They want to make an 
old ox of a young steer, and if he does wrong they will whip him most 
unmercifully, and often injure if not spoil him for work entirely. 



What the Ox Would Say. 

When fat, my flesh is wholesome and quite sweet, 

And the scripture says it is good to eat; 
With divided hoof, in the mire I work complete, 

Give nutritious food, kind treatment and every request I'll meet. 

I prefer the trip ropes, I would humbly say. 

For education vs. whipping, every day; 
It doesn't take near so long that way; 

I am " slow to comprehend," whip hard, oh, no! I pray. 



The Balky Steer or Ox, 

This fellow has been loaded so he could not draw the load, or by 
wearing a yoke too small or too large has had a sore neck and refused 
to draw. His driver not knowing how to start him, has whipped him 
and he has become so accustomed to the whip he will not mind it. Do 
not whip him. Place a three-fourths inch rope around his horns (or 
neck), thence down around his nose in a half hitch knot and put a 
handkerchief in each nostril, and pull upon the rope, and as he cannot 
breathe he will start, or get up if he is lying down. This will never 
fail in cases of sullen or balky oxen. I have heard of piling a cord of 
rails on an ox when he lied down, holding him there. This will not 
always work. I saw a man once, in Texas, whip an oxen with a club 
until I could stand it no longer. I went to him and asked him if he 
would let me try and see if I could make him get up. (He thought he 
ought to be killed.) I took a rope, and after giving him a drink of 
water which he swallowed greedily, 1 placed it upon him so as to 
smother bim, and tightened it up, and asked the owner not to whip 
him. In a few moments he got up on his feet and worked all right. 



120 EDWARD'S PRACTICAL 



The Ox or Steer That Will Not Back. 

PJaee around bis bead a light trace chain and attaeh a rope to the 
tree end about ten inches from the head; take him upon a barn floor 
and standing directly in front of him say " back," and give him a tap 
straight do»vn his forehead by raising the rope in the hand and throw- 
ing it downward and backwarJ. The steer should be taught to back 
upon the barn floor with short bow-top whip, tapping him on the front 
legs and down on the floor in front of him. If he will not back, the 
above method will not fail to make him obey. Place the ehain upon 
him so it will lay straight down his forehead. Teach him to back well 
before placing him on a load to back. Then a light load at first. 



To Prevent Turning The Yoke. 

Many a pair of well-matched steers are spoiled for a good price by 
having one of their tails pulled off from tieing their tails together while 
breaking to prevent them turning the yoke. This need never happen 
if you will follow these instructions. Take two good, stout 9ireingles 
or ropes and tie them around the steers at the flank or just in front of 
the hips (after placing the yoke upon them), tie a good rope to the out- 
side bow of the off ox, thence back under the rope that is around him, 
around behind and under the rope on the near one the same and then 
tie snugly to bis outside bow. This will form a harness that they can- 
not possibly turn a yoke in and in no danger of pulling out the tails. 
It is a good plan to have the sircingles quite snug and a ring on the 
outside of each one to run the rope through, so it will not drop down 
too low. They should wear the cireingles or ropes around them sev- 
eral times before being yoked, so they will get used to them. 



To Make Steers Come Under the Yoke. 

After your steers have been handled so thoy are quite handy, it 
looks well to have them go around each other and come under the 
yoke, stopping on either side, either hawing or geeing around. Tie one 
steer to the center pole with yoke in place and rope upon the other, 
then tap him with whip and lead him around to the place where he 
started from. By repeating this a few times he will readily obey you 
and come under the yoke. You may tie the yoke to the center pole 
about Ihe right height for them to come under if you wish. 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 121 

To Train OiF Steer to G-ee Around and 

Near One to Haw Around at the 

Same Time. 

Take them upon barn floor and tie off one to center pole, place a 
rope upon the near one, stand behind and a little to one side and say 
"Duke," or whatever his name may be, and tap him about the ears 
and lead him around to the left. Work in this way until he will haw 
around and come back to his place. Now tie near one to place, rope 
upon off one and teach him to go around by standing behind and a 
little to off side, tapping him with the whip about the ears, saying 
"gee, Dime," leading him around at the same time. Practice in this 
way for some time, then stand behind and say "Duke!" to the near 
one and tap him about the ears and immediately after he starts, say 
"gee, Dime! " That is using their respective names. Tap the off one 
about the ears and they will both come around facing you. Stop and 
caress them, and repeat, and they will soon go around to the place 
where they started from. Your success in this will depend upon your 
skill and ability to handle the whip properly, not in striking hard 
blows but in tapping them about the ears and rump at the right time. 
In selecting steers, get those with round, open eyes like the large end 
of an egg, instead of small, protruding eyes like the small end of an 
egg. Lop-horned steers are liable to be moderate, while those with 
high horns are more apt to be fast or lively, and the steer having the 
feather or quirl (as it is called) down below the eyes on the forehead is 
said to be ill tempered, and some say " Horse's" I. E. To have a pair 
of steers " handy," as it is iermed, they should be handled when year- 
lings and taught the commands to start, stop, etc., but never loaded 
with anything heavier than a small sled or cart. A man that owns a 
pair of well-matched, trusty oxen or steers may always feel proud of 
them and command a good price at any time. 



The Runaway Steers. 

p lace upon them the trip ropes, as seen in Illustration No. 59. Take 
them to wagon or place where they can run, and be sure to riave your 
trip ropes long enough so you can get some distance away. If they 
start, say whoa, and if they do not stop bring their noses to the ground 
by pulling upon the ropes. Do not whip them now, but take them 
back and try them once more. By repeating a few times you can 
break the worst pair of runaway steers. 



EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



Handling Steers' and Oxen's Feet. 

Handle his feet the same as described for the horse except in hand- 
ling his hind feet. P lace a ring in stable behind him, and run the line 
from his hind foot through it instead of through ring tied to his tail. 
This will also teach them not to kick when they get the chain around 
their feet, etc. Do not hold the foot too long at first and he will soon 
allow you to take up his feet and handle in any way. 



To Work Wild Steer with G-entle One. 

Train the gentle one well, then give the wild one some training and 
hitch to the break sulky. Teach him to go alone, and then he will go 
all right with the other one. If he lies down or sulks, apply the 
smothering- nose piece and smother him as described formerly. Do 
not hitch him with the other (or gentle steer) until he will drive well 
alone. Use whip carefully and give commands to compare with the 
way they will be used when yoked double. Keep the trip ropes or 
lines upon him, and at any time he tries to run, bring his nose to the 
ground. Use judgment in tripping; do not trip too often or give him 
too long continued lessons, as he may get discouraged and refuse to 
to obey, when if not tired and worried would work all ri^ht. A steer 
gets tired and discouraged easier and quicker than a horse, and com 
prehends slower. 



The Lazy Ox or Sluggard. 

Remove the bit from an ordinary blind bridle, and put in its place 
a nose band or strap, long enough to pass around the nose like a hal 
ter. Place this upon him so he cannot see all that is going on behind 
him; then put a small brad or tack in the butt end of a whip, and let 
an assistant (if needed) walk along by his side. When you speak hit* 
name, slightly prick him just back of the front leg or elbow joint. A 
few lessons of this kind will teach him to work up at the word and will 
not injure him like constant whipping, causing him to be more slug- 
gish than ever. If you are working a very wild steer with a gentle 
one it might be well to place this blind halter on the wild one for a 
time, and then if he is too fast, blind fold him for a time. No horse 
or ox will run very fast if blind-folded so he can see nothing. 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 123 

Safe Device for Handling Bulls. 

This device for handling bulls has proven 

convenient, durable and safe. It is simple, 

and any blacksmith can very quickly make 

one. Put it on and let it remain on as long 

as the bull is being handled. It is not in the 

way of anything or at any time. It needs no 

explanation. Lead with a rope or staff and 

hitch in the nose ring or above as you see fit. 

Have a heavy, stout, harness snap put on the 

end of the chain to hitch in the ring in the 

nose, and another snap to hitch the ring half 

illustration No. 61. way between the horns. Fit a ring on the 

horns under the nubs. If any bull is too 

harsh for common brass nubs and tears them off, have a blacksmith 

make a heavy iron nub with a heavy thread that will stand the racket. 




How to* Break Kicking Cow. 

Place upon her Spanish halter or war bridle. This is made by 
taking a small stout rope and make a loop large enough to fit nicely 
around the under jaw. Pass the loop over her neck, then place it in 
her mouth and pass the other end through the loop. Teach her to 
lead by giving side pulls upon the bridle (around center pole if you 
wish) until she will lead well. Do not pull hard or steady, but give a 
light pull and immediately slacken so she can not pull upon you, and 
learn your weakness. She should be in small yard to teach this, (be 
sure to nave plenty of rope.) If she kicks when milking, look well to 
the cause — she may have thin sensative skin or sore teats or some 
cause of fear or pain not readily discovered. The heifer never knew 
anything about kicking until frightened or hurt in some way. Be 
careful, kind and quiet about her. Handle her when quite young if 
you intend to keep her for a milch cow and repeat the lessons. Do 
not kick or strike her. If she kicks while milking, (and you have 
taught her to lead) take your pail and proceed to milk while the bridle 
is upon her, and if she trys to kick give a light pull upon bridle and 
repeat until she ceases kicking while you milk (with one hand and hold 
the rope with the other.) If very bad'some one can sit down to milk 
while you hold the rope and if she kicks, correct her in the mouth and 
she will stop. Now sit down to milk with the rope bridle on and across 
your lap. If she attempts to kick you can easily stop her by a little 
tremble on the rope. You will-be successful in handling by this plan. 
Neither Mr. Slow Poke nor Mr. Hurry Up should ever be allowed to 
milk a good cow. 



124 EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



Cows That Will Not Stand While Being 
Milked. 

Place upon her the trip lines, as described and seen in Illustration 
No. 59. Sit down to milk and lay the lines across your lap. If she 
starts to run, seize the lines and pull up both feet, do not whip her. 
Slack up on the lines, pet and caress her, and proceed to tnilk. If she 
tries to run away again, stop her by pulling up both feet again which 
will bring her nose to the ground. You can teach any cow to stand in 
this way as she will soon find out if she runs you can stop her, and in 
a way to make a lasting impression upon her mind that "stand still" is 
what she must do. This may also be applied to the cow that kicks 
and then runs. 



The Fence Breaker. 

For fence breaking cow or ox, place upon the device as described 
for handling unruly bull. They can eat and drink but cannot hook 
or tear the fence down with head or horns. See Illustration No. 61. 



Cow that Sncks Herself— How to Break. 

Take the "cribbing" or "biting" preventive described in the book 
for horses, invert it or place it on upside down ; that is, place the leath- 
er over the nose instead of under chin and fasten to a good fitting five 
ring halter. It may be necessary to make the sides and leather a little 
larger, for some cattle have larger noses than most horses. Have 
the side pieces run down a little lower then when on the horse, she can 
eat but cannot suck herself. 



The Choked Cow. 

If choked with oats or dry feed place a pole in some place conven- 
ient to make her jump over and drive her over it oack and forth, each 
time raising the pole a little higher. This will have a tendency to 
loosen the substance and give relief. I have relieved horses in this 
way. If anything should be lodged in the throat like an apple or solid 
substance of any kind, take a piece of wire the size of telephone wire 
and bend it double making it the shape of an egg or cipher on one end. 
Insert this end through a devise or bowling iron placed in the cows 
mouth and gradually work it down and around the obstacle and then 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 125 

draw it out. 1 have used this wire and removed pieces of pumpkin 
etc., from the throats of choked cows. See there are no rough places 
on the wire. There is no danger of pushing this through the throat as 
it is round at the bottom and will spring when it strikes the obstacle 
or sides of the throat, so there is not the danger as in using a stick or 
whip stalk. 



Breaking the Heifer. 

In breaking the heifer, you must be systematic, gentle and firm. 
If you are kind and firm she will know it; if you are a coward she will 
find it out, and try to master you. Take hold of the teat with one 
hand, pressing against the flank with the head and as you commence to 
milk, if she kicks, do not let loose of the teat but push against her with 
strength steadily, as pressing against her will have a tendency fo stop 
her kicking and ward off the blows so she will not hit you. She will 
soon learn that you are not there to hurt her, and will submit to be 
milted all right. If it seems to give her pain or hurt her to milk, wash 
the teats with warm water, and milk easy and slow until she gets ac- 
customed to it. Try your best to determine whether it is pain caused 
by milking or her determination to get rid of you that makes her kick 
or act restless. 



Hints to Dairymen. 

Salt often; pear the finger nails short or close and keep them so- 
milk rapid, but not in so much of a hurry that you do not milk qaite 
clean; do not strip any more than possible between the thumb and fin- 
ger; milk clean but do not prolong the stripping. Equalize the time be- 
tween milking whether you milk twice or three times a day, Let one 
person milk the same cow or cows for a season, it will make much dif- 
ference in the production of butter and milk. A heifer should be 
milked well up to the birth of her second calf, she should not go dry 
more than four or six weeks. 



Sore or Cracked Teats.. 

Should be anointed with "Carbolated Cosmoline" (which may be 
made as per receipt,) and the milk drawn with silver milk tubes to 
prevent opening the cracks or partly healed fissures. These tubes can 
be obtained by addressing, H. D, Thatcher, Pottsdam, New York 



126 EDWARDS 7 FKACTICAD 

Price 50 cents, or $2.00 for four. If you eannot obtain these tubes, 
take the quills from a small fowl's wing or tail, cut them the proper 
length (that is so they will enter the teat about f the length upward,) 
eut a small hole on either side or cut the end off. Smooth tho end 
and place them in the teat small end upward. They will answer, but 
the silver tubes are far preferable. These tubes can and have been 
used successfully in milking, you can milk in five to eight minutes 
and no harm done. They are of especially great value when the teats 
are cracked or tender, as you milk the cow clean and give her no pain. 



Inflamed Udder. 

This may occur at any time. Is usually caused by cold and is most 
likely to make its appearance after parturition, especially if the cow 
has stood in a cold place or current of cold air. In the first stage a 
cold spot will be found by passing the hand over the udder. This, 
however, is rarely ever noticed by the average farmer or dairyman. 
Rub all around, this cold spot well to restore circulation, with the 
hand, and bathe with the following Wormwood Oil Liniment. Oil 
wormwood, 1 onnee; oil organum, 1 ounce; powdered saltpeter, 1 
ounce; extract witch hazel, 8 ounces; alehohol, 5 ounces. Shake well 
each time before using. If no attention is given, in about twenty-four 
hours this cold spot will become hot, inflamed and swollen, it is now 
in the second stage, and will be quite sensative to the touch. Bathe 
the parts well with hot brine as hot as the hand can be borne in it, 
and rub dry, rubbing from the inflamed part each way to draw the im- 
pacted blood corpuscles from the inflamed part Continue the rubbing 
for one half hour, when the Wormwood Oil Liniment should be ap- 
plied and again rubbed dry. Give this attention at least twice each 
day and you will bring about a cure. In the meantime the milk must 
be cleanly drawn at least twice a day. If there is a lump in the teat 
or it is swollen so the milk will not flow, it must be drawn off with sil- 
ver tube. Now should the milk be so coagulated that it will not flow 
through the milk tubes, inject one pint of warm water, in which one 
teaspoonf ul of baking soda (or bicarbonate of soda) has been dissolved. 
To do this you may need the assistance a veterinarian who has a 
syringe of the proper size and shape. In such cases the milk must all 
be drawn or the teat will surely be lost. 



Bloated Cow or Calf. 

Bloating may be caused by over-feeding, or change of feed given 
in large quantities. Give a cow three table spoons full of soda (or sale 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 127 

ratus) in one quart of warm water, and repeat in thirty minutes. If not 
relieved add two dessert spoons full of turpentine, using milk in place 
•of water. For a calf give one table spoon full of saleratus in one pint 
of warm water, aiad repeat the same if not relieved in thirty minutes. 
One of the best things I ever saw to give medicine with, either to horses 
or cattle, is a tin bottle with a long neck. This may be made double 
so it will not dent or break, and can be easily used \o heat medicine in 
on the stove when necessary; there is also no danger of getting glass 
in the animals throat or stomach, thereby causing death. The United 
States veterinary spoon is also very convenient. For sale by all flrst- 
■elass dealers in horse goods. 



The Teeth. of Cattle. 

Cattie have thirty-two teeth when full grown. I have counted, 
however, only twenty-eight in several. The following shows their 
number and position : Upper jaw— Incisors, none; molars, 12. Lower 
jaw— In-Hsors, 8, molars, 12. Total 32. 



To Cure Garget, or Caked Udder. 

Give two drachms of iodide of potash, dissolved, with bran mash or 
<cut feed, morning and night. Wash the bag well with warm water, 
and then rub dry with camphorated oil. Continue the iodide of pot- 
ash until all traces of the difficulty disappear, which will take in most 
cases two or three days. 



Lice on Horses or Cattle. 

These pests may be easily exterminated by the free use of insect 
powder, blown into the hair with a powder gun. Give them a thor- 
ough dusting all over the head, neck, shoulders, back and clear down 
to the bottom of the tail. Repeat in eight or ten days. A second 
dusting thoroughly applied will make clean work. 

For large blue lice take 2 quarts linseed oil ; 1 pint kerosene; 3 
pounds sulphur. Mix well and rub into the hair thoroughly once a 
week and they will disappear. 



128 EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



Marks of a G-ood Cow. 

She is long in her face and fine in the horn, 
She'll quickly get fat with but little corn, 
She is clear in her jaw, she is full in her chin, 
She is heavy in flank and wide in her loin. 

She is broad in her ribs and long in her rump, 

A straight, flat back with never a hump, 

She i9 wide in her hips and calm in her eye. 

She is firm in her shoulder and thin in her thigh. 

She's light in her neck and small in her tail, 

She's wide at the breast and first at the pail, 

She's fine in her bone and silky of skin, 

She's a grazier's without and a butcher's within. 

To tell the age o r cattle by the horns you may. as a rule, count 
three years for the first ring and one year for each succeeding ring. If 
the animal has no horns you may determine the age by the teeth the 
same as horses, only they shed and fill in six months sooner than the 
horse. That is, a calf eighteen months old has two permanent incisors 
or nippers on the lower jaw, and at two years old has four permanent 
incisors; three past, six; four past, eight, or a full moutl|. From 
five to eight years old they are smooth and quite closely set together, 
and from eight to twelve they become smaller and bear marks of wear 
and stand apart, and sometimes are partly gone. 



Training Dogs, 

The dog is the most intelligent of all the smaller domestic ani- 
mals. He is easy to teach, and if properly used is a willing and faith- 
ful servant of man. You will find it a pleasure to give an intelligent 
dog his education from first to last. Never try to train an old dog — he 
knows too much to be educated. It is not what he does not know but 
what he does know that makes it impossible to teach an old dog. For 
instance, an old dog might hide or sneak away to get off duty, but the 
young dog will not unless you teach him I will give a few lessons in 
trick teaching, sufficient I think to lead the operator to practice more. 

There are three rules that must be observed— patience, kindness, 
and perserverence. There are of course as many different traits and 
dispositions in dogs as there are breeds, and judgment must be used in 
selecting a dog suited to your requirements. For instance, a shepherd 
will drive sheep, a setter scent birds and a terrior catch rats without 
much training, the St. Bernard is a good watchdog, the spaniel takes 
to water from birth. So be careful not to force a dog to do what i." 
not his nature. 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



129 



The Shepherd Dog. 



Get a well bred dog six months old, and keep him away from 
everyone, and where he will hear no words with a meaning intended 
to be attached, except his own name. Every time you come near him 
call him by name, and he will soon learn it. Now take him on the 
barn floor with no one present but yourself. Place a strap upon his 
neck that will not slip off, attach 8 or 10 feet of cord and teach him to 
lead by pulling on the cord, and say "here". This is all that should 
be taught the first day or two. If he is very large and hard to teach, 
tie this cord around his hind leg. The next thing to teach is to go 
from you, to the right and left as you motion you hand, and say "go 
on." 

To teach him to do this thoroughly and quickly there is only one 
way. Place a ring and staple on the right side of the room, as seen in 
illustration No. 62, one on the left hand side, and one at each end. 
Now place two separate cords upon your dog. Run one through the 
ring at one end of the room and the other through the ring at the 
opposite end, as seen by dotted lines. Take a good supply of small 
pieces of fresh meat, and say "go on", and motion and point from you 
directly to the ring. With the other hand draw upon the cord, and 
as he has been taught to lead he will go that way. Now tell him to 
"come here." If he does not come, pull lightly on the cord fastened 
in the opposite side of the room. This will lead him back to you. Then 
caress and feed him bits of meat. Do not attempt to teach another 




Illustration No. 62. 



130 EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 

thing until he will do this as you point your finger and say ''go on," 
and comes at the word ''here.*' 

If you wish to teach him to "si op", tell him to "go on" and as he 
gets a little way from you say ".-top". If he does not do so you can 
stop him with the cord. Repeat until he will stop at the word. 

The next thing to teach him is to go from right to left at the mo- 
tion of the hand. Place the cords through the rings as seen in Illus- 
tration No. 62, and as you motion say "that way" for him to go to the 
right or "this way" for the left, using the respective hand for the way 
you wish him to go, and he will soon learn. If he refuses, you can 
make him go by cords. Now take him out into a large yard and lepeat 
these lessons day after day until he will obey perfectly. 

Now you would like to teach h'un to g> ahead or behind while 
driving. This can only be done by practice. You will need one or 
two calves to do this a>» they are not as apt to kick, hook or fight as 
older animals. Place the cord upon him and go around with him, 
driving the calves slowly about the yard. Tell him to "go on" and 
point to them. As he approaches, steady him with the cord and say 
"bark,' and if he has got much Shepard about i.iiu he will bark and 
bite at them. Watch him closely that he doesn't get kicked. By 
repetition you can teach him that when you say "go on back" he will 
go to heels. You can teach him to go ahead by giving the word and 
motion. Give short lessons of thirty minutes at first. 

If he will not mind the word you may tie a loop in the cord and 
drop it over a post and just before he gets to the end of it, say "stop". 
and it will change ends with him in a way that will make a lasting im- 
pression on him, and will not make a coward of him as whipping will 
do. Never strike a dog, especially a shepard, when he comes to you, 
even if he has done wrong— it will m ike a coward or sneak of him. 
Never try to teach a young dog with an old one. One dog does not 
know enough to teach another dog, and will in most cases do harm. If 
he gets reckless or too fast, place upon him the cross-leg harness as 
seen on horse in illustration No. 44, and see that it is properly adjust- 
ed. Or place a small strap around him as a girth and tie a stout cord 
to a small ring; pass a small strap through this ring; buckle to his 
front leg; pass cord over the girth. If he refuses to stop you can re- 
mind him by pulling on the cord, which may be very long yet so light 
it will not hinder him in running. Don't try to teach the shepherd 
other tricks while teaching him to drive, as this is a very important 
lesson and should have the first impression. 



The Bird Dog or Pointer. 

Make a selection from as pure breed as possible. Now to train 
this dog well you will need to give him the lessons as seen in illustra- 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 131 

tion No. 62 and teach him thoroughly to go by the motion of the 
hand. After he will do this readily procure one or two pigeons or 
other birds of proper size and tie the legs, then with cord tie in the 
bushes. Now take your gun loaded with blank catridges and proceed 
with a cord upon your dog to the spot where the birds are tied, and as 
you draw near to them motion with the hand and say "go on" and if 
he is much of a bird dog lie will begin to scent them and go in the di- 
rection where they are; say steady, and steady him with the cord and 
as he gets quite close to the bird give him a chance to point, then fire 
the gun, having formerly familiarized him to report of guns, then 
motion for him to go on and as he goes to the bird do not allow him to 
tear or bite if, but hold out the hand and with the cord teach him to 
bring the bird to you. As he makes an attempt to carry it caress and 
pet him and with a few lessons of this kind your dog will go and get 
any bird you shoot and you can direct him by the motion of the hand. 
You will choose words in training suited to your fancy such as "come in" 
or "here" and "charge" or "lie down" etc Give this lesson as with 
the Shepherd first, that is before you teach him tricks of any kind. I 
trained a bird dog in this way once, and sold for fancy price. I taught 
this dog many tricks and he was a tine pointer. The gentlemen that 
bought him took him out one day and came back with seventeen wild 
duck. Now if you wish to test him. to know whether he will scent and 
follow a bird or not take the bird out in a clean field and as you walk 
along touch the bird to the ground at short intervals for some distance, 
going first in one direction and then in another, finally tying it fast to 
the branch of a tree, and by closely watching him after he starts to 
scent the bird you can decide whether he is the dog for you or not. 



To Teach a Dog to Watch, 

The object is to have a dog that will bark when an uncommon 
noise is made in the night. He should have a certain place to sleep 
and be made to know it by tying him there at night. He will soon go to 
his bed when night comes on Place a large bone (the leg of a beef is 
good) by his nest or house and have some one climb over the fence and 
make some noise while you stay by him and set him on and encourage 
him and if he has got any grit he will bark or growl. Repeat this for 
several times and he will soon know that when anyone is about in the 
night he must bark and it would not be safe for a stranger to enter the 
yard or barn with a good watch dog after he had taken a few lessons 
of this kind. Never give these lessons only at night lime. 



132 EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



To Teach a Dog to Jump Through a Hoop, 

First place him in a box and caus? him to jump out by snapping 
the finger and saying "up." Now hold the hoop in front of him and 
give him the word "up" and he will jump through the hoop as he 
jumps out of the box and will soon jump through it when held in front 
of him. 



To Teach a Dog to Sit Down. 

This is easily done, call him to you and with one hand slap him on 
the back while with the other you slap him lightly under the jaw, this 
will soon cause him to sit down. Now is the time to teach him to 
give his paw, or shake hands. This you can easily do by snapping the 
foot with the finger and touching him alternatively upon the foot and 
under the jaw. He will soon hold up his foot and shake hands. 



To Teach Him to Sit Up. 

After he will sit down and shake hands make him sit up by hold 
ing one foot and tapping him at the same time under the jaw with the 
other hand. If he falls over sit him up against the wall and s-ay sit up. 
and he will soon sit up. Then gradually take him away from the wall 
and he will sit up anywhere. Always feed and caress him every time 
he does this or any trick you wish to teach him. 



To Teach a Dog to Catch Food When 
Laid Upon His Nose. 

First teach him to catch it by dropping it into his mouth. After 
he will catch it well this way, place a small piece upon Lis nose (fresh 
meat is good), while you hold his head still with the left hand by the 
under ja«v, count three, let loose of him and he will generally catch it. 
If not attach a string to it and as you let loose of his jaw jerk up on the 
string and he will soon know he must toss his head to catch the food. 



To Teach a Dog to Find Things. 

He must first be taught to go and bring things to you, such as a 
ball or an apple. After he will do this readily you may place the ball 
in a pile of straw or shavings and tell him to find it, and if he has got 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



is;i 



a good scent he will find it. You can write his name on a block of 
wood and place it in a basket with other blocks, and he will get the 
right one. If he makes mistakes pinch his ear a little and make him 
go baek and get the right one. 

I think these are a sufficient number of examples to set forth the 
most important rules which govern the teaching of dogs.. There are 
always a great many tricks which you may teach yourdog if you com- 
mence when he is young and use patience, kindness and perseverenee. 



The bridle in illustration No. 63 is to be used with Edwards' 
bit, when you can obtain one, but in case you cannot obtain a bridle, 
the straps marked 1 and 2 may be used to place the bit upon an ordinary 
bridle or halter, using straps number 1 to buckle to the levers, thence 
to the brow band or crown piece; using straps like No. 2 to buckle bit- 
fast on each side, you can make a breaking bridle with very little ex- 
pense. See Illustration No. 63. 




Illustration No. 63. 

The Kuenhoid Manufacturing Company, Newark, N. J., are < he 
manufacturers of the bit. Every bit is tested before leaving the manu- 
facturers. 



Error. 

Coming under the heading of " How to stop a horse from biting or 
tearing the blanket, biting while grooming, crib biting, etc.," page 82. 
see Illustration No. 64, which illustration was by mistake not numbered, 
consequently omited in its proper place 



334 



KOWAKDS PKACTICAI 




Illustration Xo. 



Hints to Fature Trainers. 

In response to your request for a few hints to those who would 
become horse-trainers, I would say that I know of no absolute rules 
for accomplishing that end. In England they apprentice a boy to a 
horse trainer to learn that profession the same as they would for any 
other trade If I was going to advise a boy on the subject, I would 
say first he must have a natural love for the horse in his character, 
and then the determination to learn, and the harder he applies him- 
self the better for him. The younger he commences the better, 
and to be an expert he wants to commence at "the lower round of 
the ladder," that is, to learn how to groom and properly care for a 
horse. While this part of his education is going on he must not 
neglect his school-books. It is not necessary that he should have a 
college course, but it is ab-solutely necessary for his success that he 
should have a good business education. An education will help to 
expand his mind and learn him to think, and I know of no profession 
that requires more thinking than to train a large stable of horses suc- 
cessfully. Another very important feature in a trainer is his personal 
conduct and manner. Study tu be a gentleman at all times, dress well, 
use good language, and remember one thing, that no man can be sue 
cessful who is addicted to strong drink. If a mnn wants to learn to 
be a physician he takes a course in some medical college, attends the 
lectures and studies, and after a certain amount of practice, is given a 
diploma. Unfortunately for horse trainers, there are no schools of 
that kind for their business, they have to learn in a haphazard sort of 
a way. So that every trainer is really obliged to learn by actual ex- 
perience Never get impatient and think you are not learning fast 
enough. " Go slow, and be sure you are right " is a rule that has won 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 13? 



many a close race. By connecting yourself with a trainer who has a 
large stable, if you are a close observer you will learn faster than any 
other way that I know of. Remember you are not there simply to 
•earn wages, but to improve yourself as well. 



Points About Horses. 

There are certain marked points in a good horse. You can see 
bivadth and fullness between the ears and eyes, i'ou couldn't hire 
that horse to act mean or hurt anyoody, The eye should be full, and 
hazel is a good color. I like a small, thin ear, and want a horse to 
throw his ears well forward. Look out for the horse who wants to 
listen to all conversation going on behind him. The horse that turns 
back his ears till they almost meet at the points, take my word 
for it, is sure to do something wrong. See that straight, elegant 
face. A horse with a dishing face is cowardly, and a cowardly horse 
is usually vicious. Then I like a square muzzel, with large nos- 
trils, to let plenry of air to the lungs. For the under side of the 
head, a good horse should be will cut under the jowl, with jaw bones 
broad and wide apart under the throttle. 

'.* So much for the head." 

"The nex< thing is the build of the animal. Never buy a long; leg- 
ged, stilty horse. Let him have a shoit, straight back and a straight 
rump, and you've got a gentleman horse. The withers should be 
high and the shoulders well set back and broad ; but don't get them 
to deep in the chest. The fore leg should be short. Grive me a pretty 
straight hind leg, with a hock low down, short pastern joints, and a 
round mulish foot. There are all kinds of horses, but the horse that 
has these points is almost sure io be slightl, graceful good n at u red 
and serviceable." 



136 EDWAUDS' PRACTICAL 



The Jockey Boy. 

COMPOSED BY C. L. EDWARDS . 

There's not a trade that's going 
That has so good a showing, 
Or that's really worth knowing, 
Like that from glory growing 
For the bold "Jockey Boy." 

Where right or left we go 
Ah! sure you all know 
Your friend or foe 
Will have the weighted toe 
Like the bold '"Jockey Boy." 

While going up the street 
Every pretty girl you meet 
Will look so cute and sly 
And say as you wink your eye; 
"Oh, isn't he a dandy "Jockey Boy! " 

But when we come in stout. 
How some of them will shout, 
And some of them will pout, 
While to the right about 
He turns his steed,the bold "JockeyBoy." 

Oh! 'tis then that ladies fair 
In unutterable dispair, 
Will always pull their hair- 
But never a bit do I care, 
Says the bold "Jockey Boy." 

For the world is before us. 
And the land-lords adore us, 
And don,,t refuse to score us, 
But chalk up in chorus 
With the bold "Jockey Boy." 

We tip our riding cap, 
And taste his champaign tap: 
Oh, that's the chap 
That drove Black Mack: 
Oh, isn't he a daisy " Jocky Boy." 

Then come along with me, 
Axtell, Maud S. and J. I. C. ; 
And here comes Sunol, I. E., 
How happy you will be 
With your bold "Jockey Boy." 

Faith if you're up to fun, 
To either trot or run, 
'Twill be very surely done 
In the snapping of a gun, 
Says the bold " Jocky Boy." 

And 'tis then without scandall 
You may proudly handle 
A trotterjthat can scramble 
By the light of lamp or candle. 

"I can do it," says the bold "Jockey Boy/' 

May your light shine 
Bright for all time 
Until with worthy praise 
You will brightly blaze 
To the glory of a Jockey in a 2 -minute race . 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 137 

Sickness and Disease—Recipes to Cure 
Same. 

It is uiy desire to give a few simple, harmless remedies for the cure 
of those diseases most common, and need aid only powerful enough 
To assist nature in throwing them off. As I do not profess to under- 
stand theanatomy of the horse, and claim no veterinary qualifications, 
I will not make a veterinary book, but the few simple remedies I shall 
give will prove effectual in each and every case when timely used. I 
read in a certain Professor's book that every man who ever wrote a 
book on hon-e training has culled a lot of recipes and formulas for the 
treatment of diseases from various sources and printed them in his 
book, etc. I would like the pleasure of showing said professor several 
books on the education of the horse that I have, each of which has not 
one single recipe in them of any kind or form. At the same time this 
does not cause me to falter in placing before you a few remedies by 
the use of which some one may be benefited and the suffering animal 
relieved. 



Cleansing Powders for the Blood, 

Take one part pulverized saltpeter, one part pulverized sulphur, 
and one part pulverized sarsafras, mix well and giveone table spoon 
f ul once a day in feed. You may use one one part of cream tartar in 
place of sulphur in hot weather, or one part ginger in cold weather tf 
you wish. 



Wind Colic. 

Take one tea spoonful turpentine, two table spoonsful saleratus, 
one table spoonful pulverised saltpeter, shake well in one quart of 
warm water and drench. Repeat the dose in thirty minutes if neces- 
sary. (This recipe cost $50, first bought of an old English veterina- 
rian.) 



Spasmodic Colic. 

The symptoms in this case are more violent, throwing themselves 
down, sometimes becoming unmanagable, rear and strike, etc. If pos- 
sible consult a veterinary. If your horse needs immediate attention 
and no veterinary can be had, give him 1 oz. spirits ammonia in one 



138 KDWAKDS' PRACTICAL 



quart milk, shake well and drench, For colt three months old give £ 
oz. in one pint milk ; for colt six months old eive £ oz. in one pint milk. 
Always give in milk and shake well, repeat in thirty minutes if neces- 
sary. 



Cough Remedy. 



Take one part each of tar, pure lard, and N. O. molasses, place in 
a kettle and heat slowly until well dissolved. Stir while heating, then 
let it cool and stir well while cooling so the parts will not separate. 
Give one table spoonful morning and night after feeding. A good 
way to give this is to bind it on the bit with cloth and string. Can be 
given in this way while the horse is being used or idle. 



Scratches. 

Most every one has a remedy for this which fails, as usually the 
impure condition of the blood causes it and the cure is applied exter- 
nally. Give the condition Jbwders, then apply a poultice of flax seed 
meal and water, made in a thick paste. Let this remaip on ten or 
twelve hours, then remove and wash clean with castile soap suds. 
(Give a bran mash once a day, a few carrots, potatoes or something 
equal.) After washing bathe well with one part each of salamoniac 
and saltpeter, dissolved in eight parts of hot rain water and apply hot. 
Then in one hour rub the parts carefully with dry, finely pulverized 
sulphur. Repeat for two or three days and if they do not improve sat- 
isfactorily, you may anoint the parts well with salve made as follows: 
Take common window glass pulverized as fine as flour, sift through a 
coarse cloth or flour seive. Mix one part of this glass dust with four 
parts of melted pure lard, and stir in well while cooling. When cold 
rub in the parts affected. If used as directed this will never fail. If 
horse must be used, wash his ankles clean with castile soapsuds and 
rub dry with clean woolen cloth before applying the remedies. 



Condition Powders. 

This condition powder is good for horses subject to colic, and for 
horses with sour stomach from eating cut feed, which will produce 
colic. They renovate the system, purify the blood, regulate the bow- 
els and produce an appetite. 

4 ozs. fenugreek seed, 2 ozs. elecampane, | oz powdered lobelia, 2 
ozs. powdered licorice root, $ oz. blood root, 4 ozs. sulphur, 1 oz. black 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 139 

antoinony, £ oz. assafoetida, 4 ozs. saltpeter, 1 oz. gentian, 4 ozs. resin, 
1 oz. pulverized mustard. Mix thoroughly. 

This medicine is good for diseases contingent among cattle, sheep 
and hogs as well as horses. 

Let the age and condition of the animal govern in giving. Give a 
horse of mature age one table spoonful three times a day in feed. 
Moisten the feed, then the powder will stick to it. 



Sprains, Bruises, etc. 

1 pt. aleohol, 1 oz. organ um oil, 1 oz. camphor gum, 2 ozs. hearts- 
horn, 2 ozs. laudanum, | oz. oil cedar, $ oz. oil cloves, \ oz. spirits tur- 
pentine, 8 ozs. olive oil, £ oz. oil tar. Shake well before using. Good 
for man and beast. 



Urine. 



Nitra : 15 drops. Repeat in two hours if action does not take 
place by giving 25 drops, and repeat again if necessary. 



Corns. 



After paring away the crust of the corn hollow, a little over the 
corn, apply one part each of butter of antimony and muriatic acid.- 
Mix in a bottle and apply with a feather to the corn. 



Scowers. 

Take 1 table spoonful of black pepper, 1 table spoonful of salt, 
£ pint of water, £ pint of pure vinegar. Bring to a boil and wash the 
animal across the kidneys or small of the back with it hot, then give 1 
table spoonful finely pulverized charcoal in feed. If your horse is in- 
clined to scowers, give the pulverized charcoal as a preventive. It can 
possibly do him no harm, and will never fail if given in time. 



Renew Old Age, 

To make the old horse young or get up and get use 1 oz tincture of 
assafoetida, 1 oz. tincture of contharides, 1 oz. oil of cloves, 1 oz. oil of 



HO EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



cinnamon, 2 oz. antimony, 1 oz fenugreek, i gal. proof brandy. Place 
in a jug, cork, and let stand a week and give from 8 to 10 drops in a 
pail of water. Give a little more or less as the case may require It 
may be given on feed, best effect in water. 



Cribbing. 

It is yet an unsettled question as to the cause of this habit. It cer 
tainly is not a disease and I never have heard of a cure. Some say it 
is caused by toothache, others say it is brought on by improper feeding 
and watering, causing as it were a kind of hiccoughs, and biting re- 
lieves the pain somewhat. All the appliances I have ever seen, such 
as buckling a strap snug around the throat, anti-cribbing halters, etc., 
have a tendency to chafe and irritate the animal. By using the biting 
or cribbing preventive as described in this book, you may avoid this 
and prevent the cribbing while in the barn or stable, and if taken in 
time, may in some cases bring about a cure, and by using the extension 
center piece in bit well raised, and bit somewhat lowered in horses 
mouth, he will not crib. The pipe bit attachment is best for this 
(though the other may be used) tr> prevent cribbing while hitched upon 
the street. 



Itch Mange. 

For itch mange or humors take 1 part pulverized sulphur, 1 part 
pulverized black pepper, 1 part pulverized spice, 1 part pulverized salt- 
peter. Stew this all together with lard enough to make a soft oint- 
ment and stir well. Apply to the parts affected with the hand thor- 
oughly and give the horse condition or blood cleansing powders. Con- 
tinue and you will cure. 



Breathing. 

Difficulty of breathing, from whatever source, whether from some 
disorganization or change in the lungs, or obstruction of the air pas- 
sages, whatever the obstruction be it must first be traced to its cause 
before good can be done. This is sometimes not easy to do. The 
owner must act with judgment. Thick wind often follows pneumonia 
and is caused by the closing or obliteration of a portion of the lungs. 
If it does not pass away after the disease which preceded it is cured, it 
may be remedied by feeding tne animal on good sound oats, free from 
dust, moistened before feeding. Feed but little hay, of first quality 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 1M 



timothy moistened, carrots, mashes and sweet apples in winter suffi- 
to keep the bowels properly open, and a ran on fresh ^ra^s in summer 
9> good. 



Broken Wind. 

Broken wind, bellows and heaves are most often found in horses 
of mature age, the result both of disease of the lungs and violent exer- 
tions. There are very few hotses that can eat dusty clover hay for 
weeks and then stand a drive, without exhibiting heaves. There is no 
permanent cure for this disability. Clean, sound feed, such as well 
cured corn stalks with wet bran and cracked corn for grain is no doubt 
«s #ood a selection for feed as you can make. This will enable many 
broken winded or heavy horses to do a fair amount of work with com- 
parative ease. Never check a horse up with this difficulty, or cause 
hiia to drive upon a tight rein. He should be allowed to hold his head 
in t he easiest possible position. One of the most usual means of caus- 
ing the animal to appear for a time sound is to give 8 to 16 grains of 
arsenic a day for a week or ten days. Commence by giving 8 grains 
and then increase daily to 12 or 16 grains. 



Hard, Dry, Contracted Feet, 

Take of tar, lard, alcohol and turpentine, equal parts. Mix well 
together and apply freely all over the hoof up to the caronet, of edges 
of the hair at the top of the hoof, every night for a week. The apply 
three or four times a week as may be necessary. If convenient, a run 
on pasture for one or two month is better. 



Strain or Bruise. 

Take 2 ounces ammonia, 4 ounces saltpeter, shake together in a 
bottle with one gill good apple vinegar and one gill rain water. Apply 
hot and rub with the hand. Moisten a cloth with some and lay on 
and bind over the parts effected. Keep this cloth moist with this and 
continue until releived. (Good for man or beast.) 



Carbolated Gosmoline Ointment. 

Carbolic acid, 1 drachm ; cosmoline, 5 ounces: mix. This is one 
of the best healing preparations I ever saw for sores or cuts, especially 
Mich as after due time do not seem, to heal readily. 



142 EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



Calks, or Cuts. 



Arnica, 1 oz. ; laudanum, 1 oz. ; sassafras oil, i oz. Shake well be- 
fore using. Moisten soft piece of linen and bandage lightly; keep 
moist with mixture. 



Flesh Wounds. 

In deep fleeh wounds of a dangerous character, such as cuts from barb 
wire, etc., to prevent inflamation and mortification, take pure rain wa- 
ter 2 gallons, 1 qt, proof spirits, 4 ozs., arnica, 1 lb. saltpeter. Mix 
and inject into the wound with syringe three times a day. Place the 
horse in a good comfortable box stall if the wound need to be sewed, 
and you can not procure the assistance of a veterinary surgeon, take 
good white silk twist and a knitting needle and commence at the nar- 
row part of the cut, take one stich about $ of an inch from the termin- 
us of the wound, bring the thread over and tie each stich by itself, and 
so continue the stiches about -& of f,n inch apart, stiching back about \ 
of an inch and draw moderately snug so as not to tear out the stich. 
After the parts are swoolen, sowing is not advisable. The only means 
then isto clip the hair close and use adhesive plaster in strips across 
the wound to hold same together as much as possible. Trim, and apply 
above solution and feed bran mashes grass, etc., and cure can be com- 
pleted if continued care and nursing are given. Give physic if horse 
shows signs of constipation. Give bran mashes regular. 

For physic give fron 1 pt. to 1 qt. of raw linsed oil according to 
age as described in former page. If this can not be had give same of 
pure lard. Never give castor oil or boiled linseed oil. 



Grow Hair. 



Burn some scraps of leather to a crisp and pulverize fine. Take 
of same 1 part and 1 part pulverized sulphur and mix with sweet oil 
enough to make a soft salve, and apply. 



Carbolic Acid. 



For healing preparation, use 1 oz. of carbolic acid 1 qt. rain water. 
Shake well before using. 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 143 

Bots. 

Take new milk 2 qts., syrup 1 qt., mix and give the whole in 12 or 
15 minutes after, give of warm strong sage tea two qts., and in 30 min- 
utes after giving the tea, give 1 qt., raw linseed oil. If this can not be 
had give the same of pure lard. The symptoms of the horse with bots 
is so near like that of colie in the first stages that it is hard to deter- 
mine which of the two it may be. As a rule tne horse will hold his 
head around at his side, occasionally nipping or biteing his side, where 
if he has the colie he will look around at his side and not bite. At the 
.same time bot flies are most plentiful, if you will apply a little grease 
or oil to the parts weere they deposit the eggs you can avoid the de- 
positing of the egg&, as they will not adhere to the oily hair. 



Pin Worms. 

It is best to treat these parosites with Medicine that comes directly in 
contact with them. This can only be done by giving injections. 
Take 1 oz. catechu and 1 qt. water. When d ssolved give an injection 
■and repeat for one week, on the eighth day give a bran mash. At 
night follow with £ oz aloes and 1 dcealomeL Repeat the above if 
necessary Injections of tobacco smoke will often bring about a cure. 
It is the great itching caused by the pin worm that often causes the 
horse to rub the hair out of the dock. 



Physic Ball. 

No. 1 aloes i oz. castile soap i oz. , make into a ball with linseed 
meal, and give. 

No. 2 ginger 1 dr., costile soap 2 dr., barbodose aloes pulverized 
(5 dr., make into a ball with flaxseed meal, and give. 

NOTE. In forming a ball of different ingredients if they do not make into 
a ball easily use water and flaxseed meal with same to make the ball. 



Carbolic Acid in Stable. 

Tnere is nothing I have ever used to equal this vile smelling com- 
pound to remove stable stains from white or light colored horses. Re- 
duce the acid with about 40 times its bulk in warm rain water and ap- 
ply with clean sponge or rub, rubbing well. If the stains are old it 
may require two or three applications. Carbolized water is also very 
good to wash fetlocks and legs to prevent scratches. Good for dry 
scald or scurvy and a powerful disinfectant. 



144 EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



Inflamed Eyes. 



For inflamation of and film over the eye, to 1 qt. pure rain water, 
add i oz. pulverized saktmoniac. Apply to the eye onee a day with a 
small syringe. It may-be made a little stronger or weaker according 
?o the thickness of the tiliu and the sensitiveness of the eye, which 
observation will show you. If to strong the eyelids will slightly droop. 
In treating both eyes use a seperate vessel for the eye water for each 
eye. Simple as it is T it is all that is needed, at least I found it so in 
several esses. I tried it where the film extended all over the eye. The 
as-3 of burnt alum, pulverized glass, sugar of lead etc., is to harsh treat- 
ment, and in many eases will cause blindness, eFov this recipe I paid! 
$15 00 in cash.) 



Colds. 

To break up a chill or sudden cold give the horse from 10 to 15 
drops of tincture of aconite root, mixed with a little water, every hour, 
until a light perspiration is produced. Put on plenty of blankets at 
first, and when the sweating ceases, remove one at a time. If eold 
weather, leave blankets enough on to keep the horse comfortable. 



Healing Powder, 



For healing powder for collar boils, sore back, etc., use pulverized 
eamphor 1 dr., common corn starch drs., burnt alum powdered 2 drs. 
Mix and sprinkle over the sore, follow next day with carbolated cosmo 
line ointment, and repeat. The bearing of harness must be kept off 
from the sore, 



Sore Month. 

For sore or tender mouth use borax 1 oz., tannin J oz, glycerine S 
ozs. Mix and apply two or three times a day with a swab. Use the 
pipe bit attachment and the healing powder. 



Bone Spavin. 

The definition of a bone spavin may be given as an inflamation. 
ulceration and bone deposit of the small flat bones in the lower and 
inner part of the hock joint. It is really one of the most formidable 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 145 

diseases with which the horseman has to deal. The causes are various. 
In any case, rest and a high 'heeled shoe should be allowed. Place 
your horse in a robmy box stall, cleanse the bowels and kidneys, give 
bran mash once a day. Foment the parts well with 4 Quarts of hot 
water in which 2 ozs. of laudanum is thoroughly mixed. If you wish 
to blister, clip the hair short oVer and aronnd the parts, and grease 
around under the bunch so the blister will not run down on the leg and 
bib- ter where it is not needed. Then apply with the finger over the 
bunch only the following liquid blister. 



Liquid Blister; 

Take of alcohol oue pint, aqu.amonia 4 ozs., rub in quite thoroughly. 
If one application does not blirter, repeal two or three times until a 
sweat blister is produced, then anoint with sweet oil, and repeat once 
a week until cured, washing every Other day between the times of blis 
fcering with castile soapsuds, arid anoint well with the sweet oil. This 
is a mild blister and will hot make a scar or remove the hair, if prop- 
erly used. Be sure you are right before you apply a blister of any 
kind. Where a horse is afflicted with a bog spavin and a bone spavin;, 
combined on one leg is, sometimes the case. Blistering will only make 
it worse and in many cases a cure can not be acGomblished with a 
blister or any other remedy. 



Enlargement of the iJocki 

Repeat precisely the same as bone spavin fomentations 'Vhile in ttiie 
stage of fever or innamation, and then sweat or liquid blister to be 
Used as for bone spavrn enlarged liock or any bther disease of the 
bones joints tendons or muscular tissues that straining of the parts i* 
likely to occur again, and great care must be take in Working or driv- 
ing especially on rough ground. 



Rmg Bon6; 

This is a deposit of bony matter above and below the coronet of 
the foot, just where the hair begins above the hoof or of the bone of 
the hoof, as the coffin bone is called, or a bony growth in the pasterns; 
treat the same as bone spavin, only after applying the blister; apply 
a cloth over the bunch smeared with tallow to assure a strong blister. 
If you think the case needs a stronger blister than can be obtained with 
the spavin blister, here is one that will blister stronger. 10 drops mu- 



116 EDWAKDS' PRACTICAL 



riatic acid, 20 grs. corrosive sublimate^ 20 grs. camphor, 1 oz oil of 
turpentine. Mix well and apply. Wash off and oil as in other blister 
to prevent blemish, and repeat only once in two weeks. 



Splint. 

This is a peculiar enlargement generally found on the small bone? 
of the fore leg. I have never seen the cause defined. If the protuber- 
ance is small and there is no lameness, do nothing. It will disappear 
by natural absorbtion as the animal increases in years, providing there 
is no exciting cause constantly at work. If a treatment is thought 
necessary, observe if there be any inflamation. If any, reduce same 
by cool poultice and bathe with cold water one hour each day in which 
a little salt has been dissolved, then clip the hair from over and aiound 
the bunch and rub on at evening the following: 1 dr. bimodide of 
mercury, 1 oz. lard, well mixed. Continue this until a free watery dis- 
charge is produced from the surface. As a rule this is sufficient. It 
will in most cases gradually disappear from this time unless the tumor 
or enlargement interferes materially with the tendons, in which ease it 
will need the attendance of a skilled veterinary. 



Curb. 

This is swelling in the middle and just behind the lowest part of 
the hock joint. At first it is soft, producing an enlargement about two 
inches below the hock, caused frequently by a sprain or strain of the 
tendon. If there be inflamation, use a cool wet bandage, absolute rest 
and a high heeled shoe. If from negleet or long standing the lameness- 
becomes decided and a hard swelling is produced, use the liquid blis- 
ter as for bone spavin and repeat once a week, always rubbing down 
well with the hand before applying the bandage. Cold water is sooth- 
ing and astringent, while warm water is laxative and cleansing. 



Nine Rules For Making Money With a 
Trotter. 

1. Get the trotter. 

2. Keep it to yourself. 

3. Beat every one you can with him. 

4. Have no one in with you unless you know he is strictly confi- 
dential. 



PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 147 

5. After you have found such a man, don't say a word to any one 
about it. 

6. Never show your horse to any man but the one who is in with 
you. 

7. Never start him in a race until you know what he can do. 
Tlien you will know how to "play" him. 

8. Never play him to win until you find out you ean. 

9. Never deceive an owner, but take in every one else. 

If you follow the above directions and do not make money, do not 
blame me. C. L. E. 



148 



EDWARD'S PRACTICAL 




PROGRESSIVE HORSEMANSHIP. 



uy 




Bonner sitting down in open (i<id, 

holding cord, at the age of 

two year;-. Taken 

from life. 



150 



FDWARDS PRACTICAL 



Testimonials. 



Anv one doubting the truthfulness of these testimonials can see a copy of the original 
In my possession, showing the personal signature of each and every one, and numerous 
others which time and space will not allow us to print. 



St. Elmo. Texas. Sept. 20. 1885 
While Mr. C. Edwards resided in this 
county I knew him well. He purchased 
a drove of mustangs or wild horses. I 
saw him handle and train several and 
afterward I assisted him in training a 
number. I was surprised to see him start 
some balky horses by the use of his Hit 
and bridle, by using the line to slat the 
bit against the horses mouth. He was and temperate man 
the first to use the forward motion of the 
line here, and I used this motion of the 
line as directed by him while in his em 
ploy. I saw him ride a great many wild 
horses successfully, and know of his 
training one horse for Mr. Felix Miller 
that was very bad to handle. He would 
lie down, kick, bite and strike. Mr. 
Edwards trained him in a few days to the 
astonishment of Mr. Miller and others 
to drive well. James C. Vaughn. 



Macedon, N. Y. July 7 1891. 
To whom it may concern. 

Knowing the b -arer Mr. C. L. Edwards 
of Newark, N. Y., to be a genius at his 
profession, the breaking of colts, and 
the handling and subduing of vicious 
horses, I would leccommend him to 
parties who wish to place their colts in 
the hands of an industrious, reliable 
H. M. Little. 



East Palmyra, N.Y., Apr. 24. 1889. 
This is to certify that I candidly be 
lieve Mr. C. L. Edwards has the easiest 
most complete and practical method of 
educating and training horses known at 
the present time, for this reason: I am 
the owner of a well-bred valuable mare, 
that has been handled by traveling pro 
fessionals, and several other noted horse 
men with all the skill and ability they 



Newark, N. Y. April 24, 1890. 

Be it known that we, the following, are 
acquainted prrswnally with Prof. C. L. 
Edwards and l^nAw him as a professional 
horseman, and believe his trained horse 

Bonner" to be one of the marvels of tie 
age, and know that he can do all he say* 
hecan: A.A.Young, M. D.; W. F. 
Nutten,M. D.;W. H. Nicholoy, P. M : 
F. M. Allerton. Frank Gariock, O. C. 
Robinson, M. E. Burnham, J. E. Wiser, 
Thomas Whittleton, C. W. Stuart. H. G. 
Miller. J. B. Sheer, Geo. D. Ramsdell. 
Amos Sanford; to all of whom we refer 
you. 

, F airport, N. Y., May 1, 1891. 
Prof. C. L. Edwards trained the noted 
trick horse "'Crystal Rock" for us. He 
drove him in our presence on the street 
at different times with no bridle or reins 
could muster to break her to stand while upon him. He drove well without reins, 
being untied, and to stop her from pull- and performed twelve tricks perfectly, 
ing upon the halter or bridle. I decided|Mr. Edwards trained him only three 
to take her to Mr. Edwards. He handled months. He was trained better, beyond 
her for a few momenta, applying thea doubt, that any spirited horse ever wan 
smothering nose piece. It worked to'in this time. He was trained to adver- 
perfection and done her more good and^ise our Crystal Rock mineral spring 
more perfect training than all she hadiwater, which is fast becoming famous 
ever had done to her. and lam confident|for its curative properties, and we feel 
she will not pull with it upon her, andjamply repaid the cost of his training, 
really believe Mr. Edwards deserves farjln our estimation. Mr. Edwards has no 
more credit and recompence from the rivals as a Horse Trainer and educator. 



public than he has ever received. With 
kind regards, I am sincerely yours, 

Rev. C.W Lane. 
Pastor Methodist Episcopal Church 



Crystal Rock Water Co. 



Walworth. N. Y. Aug 22, 1888 
, Professor C. L. Edwards . 

Dear Sir: The horse you trained for 
We know of a two-year old colt thatme is driving nicely, he has never tried 
we do not hesitate in pronouncing the^to run away since you' handled him. It 
most wonderful horse we ever saw. Thisdone him lots of good. He stands well to 
colt belongs to Prof. C. L. Edwards, whobe hitched and minds the word whoa. If 
by his skill and ability has trained him'you can handle such horses as he was 
to perform the seemingly impossible and educate them so well in so short a 
number of over fifty tricks.— Newarktime your theory is excellent beyond a 
Courier. Idoubt. E. G. Glover. 



PROGRESSIVE HOKSKMAXSHIP. 



151 



Palmyra, N. Y. Sept. 23, 1891. ( Palmyra, N. Y., Oct. 17, 1891. 

Becoming the owner of a St. Araard I have shod horses for the past fifty- 
colt I desired to train her. I soon found four years and know Professor C. L. 
out that I could not brake her, as it was Edwards. I have shod a great many 
impossible for me to even lead her. horses trained by him and never have 
I met Prof. U. L. Edwards on the street had any trouble in shoeing them. Inva- 
nnd asked him if he would feo down to riably they seem to know what is going 
my barn and look at a colt I had. I told on, and even mustangs stand like old 
him I could not even lead her, and in horses to be shod, one especially, a 
thirty minutes he led her perfectly. I v cious mustang to shoe, owned by Judge 
was very much surprised to see hersoL.M. Norton, of Newark, was trained 
easily handled. No cords or ropes of by Mr. E. and I shod him and he stood 
any kind were used. No throwing, whirl- perfectly quiet. I think Mr. E is second 
ing or whipping. Mr. Edwards then|to no one as a trainer and he has a right 
took her and trained her to drive, bothfo be. I have known his father, L. Ed- 
single and double, to my entire satisfact-wards, twenty years and know of his 
ion. At the same time I was driving an-jtraining some of the worst horses in the 
other colt, which became badly frighten- country, always with success. If you 



at some loose paper in the road turn 
ed around, tiped me over, and very near 
ly got away. I immediately took him to 
Mr. Edwards and in one lesson he hitch 
ed and drove him into the road into i 
pile of loose paper, causing him to stand 
on the same with his feet repeatedly, it 
being the same day he was frightened. 
He has since driven nicely. A. R. Knapp 

Palmyra, N. Y. Dec. 14, 1892. 
Having posession of a five-year old 
Hambletonian mare that was a desperate 
kicker I desired to have Prof. C. L. Ed 
wards handle her. I asked him if he 
would allow me to see him handle her 
and he answered certainly. I watched 
the training with much interest, and af 
fcer seeing the mare go around the barn 
with tin pails and chains fastened to her 
tail dangling about her heels and not of 
feringto kick at all, I made up my mind 
it was the first time I had ever seen a 
horse properly educated not to kick 
The training was done in about thirty 
minutes, without any whipping, throw 
ing or whirling. His lesson for this 
alone is worth ten times the price of h 
book. R. Cater. 



would like to know how to teach a horse 
o stand to be shod, purchase one of 
Professor C. L. Edwards' books. 

Wm. H. D. Collins. 

Newark, N. Y., April 4, 1888. 

This ts to certify that I assisted Prof. 
C. L. Edwards in training thirteen 
horses the past three months. The ease 
and safety with which he trained these 
horses was very interesting and surpris- 
to me. All of them were good horses 
that had been poorly handled and had 
formed habits that without his method 
of training would have taken a longtime 
to educate them right. Among them 
were balkers. kickers, bolter, runaways, 
biters, strikers, stall crowders, halter 
and bridle pullers of the most confirmed 
type and of mature ages. Each and 
every one of these thirteen horses were 
well trained and testimonials of satisfac- 
tion given with the pay for training 
without an exception, to my certain 
knowledge. I believe his theory is the 
safest, most practical and humane way 
of training colts and horses known at the 
present time. Wm. A. Harris. 

Horse and colt trainer, Newark, N. Y, 



Newark, N. Y.. Sept. 15, 1890. 
Professor C. L. Edwards, 

Dear Sir:— The western mare you 
trained for me is driving well. I was 
surprised to see you drive here, hitched taught 
to light carriage, the same day she w 
caught out of the drove. 

Respectfully yours, 
D. L. Chapman. 

Liveryman, Newark N. Y. 



Palmyra, N. Y. Dec. 1, 1891. 
Being the manager of Prof. C. L. Ed- 
wards trained horse. Bonner E . Bristol, 
for the season of 1891, I can testify that trick 
he received $150 cash for each engage 
ment when exhibited. His book on the 
education of the horse is A 1. 

F. W. Cole 



Newark, N. Y. Nov. 12, 1888. 
Mr. C. L. Edwards halter broke two 
colts for me . The ease and safety with 
which he done this was surprising. He 
them both to lead well, and not 
pull upon the halter, in about one 
lour. They have never offered to pull, 
it being some six months since they were 
trained, and they lead well at the same 
time. Mr. Edwards led them both up 
a flight of stairs. C. P. Soverhille. 



Prof. C. L. Edwards of Newark, N. Y. 
attended our fair with his two-year-old 
colt which accomplished forty won- 
derful tricks, among these being driven 
at a run without reins and controled at 
will by the whip and word of mouth.— 
Palmyra Courier. 



EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



Chicago, March 7. 1877. 
Having examined the bridle bit pat- 
ented by C. L. Edwards, and knowing 
something of the anatomy of the horses 
i lead. I would certify that the superior 
maxiliary nerve in the roof of the horse's 
mouth, the main portion of which is lo 



Ausiiy, Texas, March 17, 1886. 
This is to certify that I the undersign- 
ed know the horse called the Hahley 
horse, know he ran away at the railroad 
crossing at Austin, know Mr; C. L. Ed- 
wards, saw him drive this horse up to a 
Steaming engine which he had always 



cated in the center, but having branches been desperately afraid of. At the time 



Mr. Edwards drove him he had his bit 
upon him and seemed to control hi ml 
with ease, saw him drive him up to an 
engine, place his head in the door. The 
engine was smoking and letting off steam 
at the top apd bottom and the horse 
standing in the steam . J . E . Kinney . 

PXlmyhA, N. Y.. Oct. 10,1889. 
Mr. C. L. Edwards. 

Dear Sir:— Having examined your 
" Controling Snaffle or Adjustable Bridle 



on either side equally sehsative, and can 
only be reached by a ball-shaped center 
piece, as seen on his bit. For control by 
pressure upon this nerve andits branches, 
this extension center piece being adjust- 
ably secured thereto, you can raise it for 
horses having high concave mouths, and 
lower it for those with less concavity, or 
remove it entirely. The levers have a 
perfect action upon the trifacial nerves, 
bringing the pressure in a line across 
them, not in a circle as a ring, to throw 
the cheek against the molar teeth and Bit;" I take pleasure in stating that the 



cut or irritate it on the inside, but a 



bit appears to me to be constructed on 



swiVel or ring eyelet acts in unison with^ight principles. Your statement in re- 
the motion of the head, always lyingigard to the nerves of the face and head 
smooth against the horse's face as you of the horse, and that your bit js so con^ 



can readily see. I pronounce it with 
pleasure " a first-class article." 
F. E. Dickey. V. S.. 

Chicago, 111. 



structed as to gain control without irri- 
tation, seems to me to be correct. Be- 
lieving that your invention will prove it- 
self a benefit to both the horse and his 
master, I am Very truly yours. 

Herman L. Puggs. . 
President Palmyra Horse Breeders' 



Palmyra, N. Y. Dec. 13, 1891. 
I have trained horses for the past fif 
teen years, am personally acquainted Trotting Association 
with C. L. Edwards, have drove upon 
the track several horses of his training 
and every one being fine reiners. Have 
examined his book on the education and 1 



Newark, N. Y. May 27, 1888. 
I placed in Mr. C. L. Edwards hands a 
mare. She had refused to draw and 



management of horses and pronounce it work to' a plow. Mr.JEdwards did in my 
without hesitation first class. Don't fail presence, after giving this mare two les- 



to get a copy. C. H. Aldrich. 

trailer of 

Alice B„ bay mare trial, 2:18 

Anna M., roan mare, trial. 2:29 

(has. B. Wilks; bay stud,, trial. 2:30>£ 
Champion, chest, gelding, trial, 2:20}^ 
East Mont, b. gelding,. .. .trial 2:24 

Manchester. N. Y., Oct. 16, 1887. 



sons place her upon plow and work her 
all right. She would also bolt in going 
down hill and throw herself. Mr. E. 
trained her to be a perfect reiner, and 
she has driven well ever since he return- 
ed her to me. Chas. T. Schwartz. 

Prof. 0. L. Edwards, owner, of the 
famous trick horse, ."Bonner E. Bris- 



have witnessedMr. Edwards' methodtol," on exhibition here; is one of the 
of training the colt, and heartily recom-|great attractions of the exposition. Mr. 
mend him as a first-class hand to educate Edwards' skill as a trainer was never 
horses. Clarkson Aldrich; more successfully shown than in the < x 

Owner of Champion Morgan; trial 2:30, hibition of his horse here. It iscertainly 



we'.ght 1,250. 

Marion, N. Y. Feb. 10. 1888. 
We the undersigned would like to state 
as a fact to the stock owners of this vi- 



a marvel. 
Hornellsville Tribttne, Aug. 28. '91. 

St. Elmo, Texas. July 21. 1885 
While Mr. C. L. Edwards lived at St: 
cinity, that Prof . C. L. Edwards of New-Elmo, I employe! him to train ont; 
ark, N. Y. is second to no one in educat- horse for me. This horse was very haul 
ing horses. His method guarantees com- to handle, Mr. Edwaads thoroughly 
success irrespective of age or disposition, trained him to work and drive. I saw 
To be informed of his method of control him handle him, saw him use the for- 
is well worth $20 to any farmer. James ward motion of the line, slating the bit 
Odell, C. 0. Skinner, J. J. Odell, R. B. as it were against the horses mouth. 
Skinner. 1 F. B. Miller. 



1.54 EDWARDS' PRACTICAL 



Index. 



PAGli. pagk. 

At Head with Bridle 22 Kicking and Pawing 83 

Afraid of Umbrellas 47 Kick With One or Both Feet 97 

Afraid of Top Carriage 47 Kick to Circus Cart 98 

Afraid of Cars 53 Kiss You 102 

A Good Horse 106 Kicking Cow 123 

Baby Horse 14 Lopping Out the Tongue 67 

Bitting or Check Reining 19 Ladies on Horseback , .105 

Balky Horse 35 Lice on Horse or Cattle .127 

Bolters 40 Marks of a Good Cow 128 

Bad to Back 45 Make Team Pull Even 70 

Bad to Shoe in Front 50 Not Stand while Being Milked I!4 

Bad to Shoe Behind 51 Open a Door 103 

Bad to Harness 55 ox Would Say 119 

Bad to Crupper 55 Ox, Balky ' 119 

Bad to Bridle 59 Off Steer Gee, Near One Haw 121 

Break Up Habit of Whinnering 78 Plunger to Train 48 

Bits, the Use Of 83 Pleasure Driving 85 

Bad to Catch 84 Pleasure Horse 85 

Breeding 113 Paw or Count 99 

Breaking the Heifer 125 Points About Horses 135 

Bloated Cow 126 Reining to Drive 32 

Bird Dog or Pointer 130 Running Back 43 

Bonner 148 Rearing Horse 81 

Bonner Si (ting Down 149 Runaway Steers 121 

Crowding in Stall 52 Recipes to Cure Sickness and Disease. . .137 

Check Fighter 39 Rules for Making Money With Trotter. . 146 

Cranky Horse 41 Shying 42 

Changing Way of Going 74 Switcher 58 

Close a Door 103 Stallion Bad to Manage 74 

Conduct 103 Sucking the Tongue 79 

Come Under Yoke 120 Speeding Young Colts 79 

Cow That Sucks Herself 124 Stand Without Being Tied 84 

Choked Cow 124 Shetland Ponies 105 

Cracked Teats 125 Standard 107 

Drive Without Reins 89 Steer Will Not Back 120 

Drive by the Snap of Finger 95 Teaching to Back 30 

Drive by Motion of Hand 93 The Runaway 37 

Device for Handling Bulls 123 Teach Colt or Mustang to Ride 61 

Educate Horse to Run Loose 93 Train Horse that Leans on Tongue 68 

Educate to Waltz 95 Tossing Head .69 

Educate to Gallop 99 To Make a Colt Follow 86 

Educate to Laugh 99 To Lie Down 95 

Educate to Yes and No 100 To Kneel... r 96 

Error 133 To Sit Up 96 

Fretter 58 To Roll Ove* 97 

Fence Jumper 73 Throw Rider 98 

Fence Breaker 124 Take Off Your Cap 101 

Get a Horse Up 65 Teaching Tricks 104 

Getting Cast 79 To Tell Age 108 

Go Lame 99 Teeth, Three and Four Years Old 110 

Give You Things 101 The Mule Ill 

Gentleman Rules 108 The Rnce Horse 114 

Garget, Caked Udder 127 The Mustang 115 

Horsemanship 14 Training Steers 117 

Halter Break 15 Turning Yoke 120 

Hard Puller 39 TheLazyOx 122 

Horse That Will Not Stand 46 The Teeth of Cattle 127 

Halter and Bridle Puller 48 Training Dogs 138 

Horse that Hugs Line 57 The Shepherd Dosr 129 

Horse Tearing Blanket 82 Teach a Dog to Watch 131 

Horse Drive Horse 98 Teach a Dog to Jump Througn Hoop. ...132 

How to Open Box 102 Teach a Dog to Sit Down.., 132 

Hereditary 114 Teach a Dog to Sit Up 132 

Handling Steers' Feet 122 Teach a Dog to Catch Food 132 

Hints to Dairymen 125 Teach a Dog to Find Things 132 

Hints to Trainers 134 Testimonials 150 

Inflamed Udder 126 Whirling Around 42 

Jockey Boy 136 Walk Up and Down Stairs 103 

Kicking Horse 32 Word With Trainers Ill 

Kicking Double 35 Wild Steer With Gentle One 122 



002 863 



280 



